gerg

By what you've described, it doesn't sound to me like a master cyl problem. If the pedal drops but stops short of full stroke, then the master cyl is holding. In my experience, a dud cup seal in the master will take up initially and slowly sink all the way to the floor. Sounds more like there's still somehow air in one of the circuits. The only other scenario I can think of where this problem could be caused by the master is if the bore is worn/scored in certain spots and bypassing around the cup. How have you been bleeding it?

Have you mounted your carbs the correct way yet? If not, I still reckon this is the main drama

Dunno what pressure you'd be generating but it would be determined purely by the cracking pressure of your check valve and the back pressure of your return line. Not real accurate in my experience. Your bike carbies run on gravity feed so fuck all pressure really. I tried this setup on a red motor ski boat with an electric fuel pump running a tee off to the twin strommies and a return to the tank. Turned out just the flow capacity of the pump and restriction of the return line was enough to generate excessive pressure and overwhelm the float needles and flood the crap out of the carbies. Total failure! We just fitted a mechanical unit and never looked back.

I wouldn't stitch weld the panel... Still too much warp for my liking. I like to tack at each end and then the middle, then halfway between each of those tacks, then halfway between those (keeping each tack as far from the last as possible) and keep going until all gaps are filled. Keep a wet rag with you and douse it every few tacks. Invest in a good flapper wheel for your grinder rather than using a grinding wheel. That's all I got for now

I knew they're Brinell-tested for hardness but didn't know about the balancing.

Did a tafe course and painted my kayak in a candy green with a flake added to the clear and it was plastic chips like Wayne mentioned but these are called prisma-tique and have a rainbow effect. Yes... The world's gayest kayak

I know a bloke who spins them to 7500 in a ski boat no probs, with stock bottom end bits. Clevos are race motors de-tuned for the street. Balance is the key if you want them to live.

They can fit 10.5" size if the flywheel is drilled for that pattern. 11" is for 164-tooth only. Make sure when ordering the Windsor flywheel you ask for zero balance. 28 and 50 oz imbalanced flywheels are for V8s only, zero is for (modified) internally balanced V8s and 6 cyls. Your gearbox adaptor would require use of the long V8 input shaft to allow for the extra distance from the flywheel created by the spacer. This in turn would place the box and thus the shifter further back and maybe not line up with the hole in the tunnel. Also your tailshaft will need to be shorter. If you've already thought of all this then disregard.

Biggest prick of that job is the plastic retaining ring that screws onto the tank. They tend to shrink over time and seize on. Not easy to get back on either, and to keep the gasket in place while doing so.

Turbos work the exhaust valves pretty hard, and need maximum seat area to conduct heat away from the seat, so I wouldn't go cutting extra angles into either one on the exhaust side.True any flow increase is better, turbo or nat asp but turbos are more about pressure than flow, so big ports don't do much except kill off-boost performance. I agree with Ando that airspeed is king and any increase in pumping efficiency will work, turbo or not. Just remember that getting the turbo spooling earlier is done with better low-rpm velocity (depending on your turbo size) so again like Ando said, just tidy up the dags and sharp bits and no more.

Lol "professional".... Time to name and shame!

From memory either one of the carby studs or manifold bolts. I guess whatever works the best... Ok not much help was I?

Yep, and the fact that to a Chev guy, it looked too much like a Ford Autolite (which it was based on)... Otherwise great carby

I'm eyeing off a hot run-tested 650 spread-bore Holley, 4011 series vac sec. My current carby is a 600 square, runs ok but I just can't squeeze more than 16l/100km out of it in my 302. I calculated that if I could better that even by 1 litre per hundred, this carby will pay for itself in 3 months. The 4010/4011 series was based on the old Ford Autolite carbies, which have a reputation for rock-solid reliability. Holley just used their jets and power valves in their later version. Holley abandoned them when some quality issues ruined their reputation, but the current Summit brand carbies are yet another revival of this design, and get pretty good feedback from those who use them. Advantages: • I like the fact that you don't drown your engine in fuel every time you want to play with jets. • there's no prospect of fuel leaks like what traditional Holleys are prone to on the float bowls. Granted, the modern gaskets available now are light years better than the old cork crap but the risk is still there. • these carbies go for a song compared to traditional Holleys. Drawbacks: • you can't change squirters easily (major mod to the booster/squirter assembly • power valve change req's carby removal • alloy body conducts heat and vapour lock is a common problem. I'm aware of the lack of interchangeability of parts, but was wondering if anybody had any major horror stories that need mentioning using this type of Holley.

If you can turn a flat screwdriver, you can change jets... Now's a good time to learn!

In a word... No. In a few more words... It's an ancient design phased out in 1962 that would deem it unacceptable for installation in anything newer than that date. A Windsor, complete with emissions gear, manufactured during or after the release of the XF would be acceptable with an engineer's certificate

from memory on a Holden 6 I think they go well with 58s. Possibly you even go up to 62s but the bottom line is that what you have is bullshit lean.

Thanks Thom I'll be re-doing my wags soon and that's a good reference.

Ok is there any difference in pitman arms then?

so far so good, no fuel boiling yet

Midrange has picked up too. Dunno why but I'm certainly not complaining. Gotta say it only just misses the bonnet by a bee's dick, so I'd be careful just fitting this to anything.

I've been getting some shitty vapour lock problems with the current winter mix of unleaded, E10 or normal. I have a theory that the stock air cleaner is acting like a giant umbrella, trapping heat under it and teamed up with my aluminium 4011 Holley, proceeds to boil my fucking fuel every time I get stuck in traffic or park for more than 10 min. Enter the Ford oval air cleaner.... Hopefully this will help by not trapping heat from the extractors down each side of the carby.

Bitches

Could have been a regrind on a factory cam that was done before aftermarket blanks were available.

Absolute straight swap, did it last year swapping a V8 one for a 6. All Falcon single rails are externally identical just ratios are different. 6 cyl has 3.43:1 1st, 302 & EFI have 3.06:1, 351s came with somewhere around 2.6 to handle the torque.