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I think it pays off in the end... If I had my time over I would've yoinked the hypatec rebuilder pistons for a decent set of zero deck flat tops. 17 down the hole is a lot on a little 302 Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Like a 302 rod on roids Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I hate those umbrella seals. Mine crumbled to bits after only a couple of years. When I got my heads done up, I got them to machine the guides to suit press-on Viton seals. Never had to think about them since. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Sounds like you finally found the unicorn 400 [emoji41][emoji106] Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That would be interesting, if only for the feedback ability of the TBI setup. Port injection is still king when it comes to fuel distribution and atomisation though Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think generally, EFI really only improves driveability and economy. If a big enough carby is used, it can pretty much equal EFI in absolute terms of power and torque. A cylinder head still has to flow fuel and air in either case, so I don't think its port design would be such a factor. What I would like to see is just how much EFI could improve fuel efficiency on a clevo, as they really are gas guzzlers with carbies. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Wow they've come a long way. Must really know their way around these otherwise tricky ports. They do flow well for a factory small block port but there are only incremental gains to be made by traditional methods. The biggest hurdle after all the bowl work is port placement. Hence why CHI completely moved theirs upwards with the 3V. To get the mixture to turn such a sharp angle on the 2V is a real art. I'd love to see how they do it. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Don't forget the 50oz imbalance on post-1980 302s vs 28oz earlier (including clevos) Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Whereabouts in the bowl is that? I didn't touch mine at all when I did a quick job on mine. Just rounded off the short turn, tapered the guide boss and opened up the throat a tad. He's doing 10s on 2V heads? That's pretty up there, the better ported stockers are doing well to get mid-400s in hp. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Looks rifle-bolt precise.. that will be sweet to use now Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yeah come to think of it, while porting my heads, I found heaps of casting dags in the ports and were generally rough as guts so assuming they were originals, this makes sense. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Nice to see... Although it's likely that the water pump is stuffed now due to running dry. No, it's not a myth, I confirmed that myself [emoji849] Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

You mean the cores had shifted in a direction that actually hinders porting? As in there was less meat in the right areas? Interesting... Pavtek offered CNC ported 2V closed heads and I wonder if they started with the later castings for this reason Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think Ford Oz just used whatever moulds they had available, and by the time the GF blocks came about, they may have tweaked them a bit just because the old masters were getting a bit worn (hence the core shift) .. really dunno. The only way to solve this mystery is to talk to someone who was involved in the production. The block in my wagon was out of a 75 XB ute. Still had Cf in the normal spot. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think Ford back then we're just running down their remaining V8 stock, just like in the RPO83 days, they'd shove them in anything. And DeTomaso were still buying them up until 1988, getting them built in Switzerland I believe by a tuning shop over there and shoving them in the Panteras. So Ford Oz had a secret stash somewhere.... Then after some time around then, DeTomaso switched to the 5.0 Windsor. Funny how again the part numbers are screwy when it comes to Oz revisions. All the US-sourced designs kept the "1M, 2M, 4M, 4MA, 5M" etc numbers (including locally made 4MAs) but the Aussie-only 302 just had "302" cast into it. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

You'd think that with so many revisions, they'd use a different part number on the pillow block but no... still the same D2AE number that most clevos got. As these blocks were Aussie only and quite special, they really should have had one that went something like "82DA", "E2AE" or "ARD2AE", which all denote some kind of local change. Ford's numbering system wasn't really a system at all. Didn't some of them wind up in ambulances and heavy duty work like that? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Eh... no problemo gringo Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Pillows were only made late XE weren't they? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think you got a very large paperweight there Action Man, unless you plan on making it a mega stroker Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That looks like a spun journal to me Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think that was a bit of a myth, in that getting a Mexican block in reality wasn't a negative or positive thing vs a US cast one, I can't remember where I read this, but they were cast differently (front facing up) also had distinctive lumps on the front of the block each side of the timing case boss that were apparently alternate mounting points for trucks, industrial, marine, etc. They are beefier in the bottom end, being a few kg heavier in iron (assembled) with 289 style hi-po caps. Some argue that they used domestic Mexican iron so needed to be beefier to make up for the poor metallurgy, but that could be typical toxic patriotism too. My take is that these would find their way into trucks and vans, so would be considered a heavy application. But otherwise from what I've read, Mexican blocks are nothing special. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That's weird, normally something special like a high nickel block you'd expect to have more numbers after it, not less (or none). Also, strange how so many 400s ended up in F-trucks but never got a number like "D1TE" or something, denoting that it was intended for the truck line. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yeah other than on here, it's hard to find an oz-specific topic on this that is 100% accurate, but I did see something on ICE ignition's site about the smaller shaft being used on the earlier blocks, and they say that with theirs it doesn't matter as they have a lower needle bearing. This, they say eliminates the need for support by the drilling in the block (so their dizzys work on both), and also if the block is actually the right size but worn, that doesn't matter either. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think it's the other way around Deano ie: electronic one fits: black block Won't shove in the hole: Blue block. Edit: no I just realised I got that completely wrong. Carry on [emoji51] Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I can't explain why it has the old Cleveland foundry marks if it's a locally cast one. The date stamp to me looks like 9A31. I forget how that breaks down, perhaps 1979, A shift of 31st week? (no time to research just now) but looking purely at the paint, there's no sign of any blue under that black so it's likely a factory black. Another giveaway is dizzy drive hole, which you could measure if you have a dizzy handy (ie: go or no-go) Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk