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Ok is it a 9v or 12v coil? Older points-type dizzys used 9v with a ballast resistor, electronic ones use straight 12V. It will say what it is on the top of the coil. Make sure that you're getting 12V at the coi, as some ignition wires were special resistor wires that had built-in resistance. Establishing that, ignition goes to +, dizzy goes to - and so does tacho if fitted.

I'll tell you all I know: Mass Air Flow (MAF): can be digital or analog. On the EFI 4.1 Fords I believe they were analog, using a carbon variable resistor attached to a spring-loaded flap (vane type). EA onwards did away with this and used MAP only. Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP): sensors on Fords are a funny output of both frequency and pulse width. Very hard to intercept and/or modify this digital signal. GM map sensors are much simpler with a 0-5v output. This is what MSD uses for their "boost retard" or what is basically the load map. Obviously this sensor on any engine without an airflow meter is at the heart of the fuel curve. Some intercept boxes modify this signal to alter mixture. Throttle Position (TPS): tells the computer when to give some "accelerator pump" effect, when to employ "closed loop" operation (O2), and when idle and full-load occur. Not much gain in modifying this signal unless you want to change the closed-loop setting. Often a variable resistor with a simple analog (voltage) signal back to the computer. Some have a built-in switch to cut fuel on overrun. Coolant temp (CTC): either resistance to earth or voltage back to ECU, provides enrichment when cold. Also changes spark map. Same goes for intake air temp sensor (IAT). Some intercept boxes use the IAT signal as a means of trimming the mixture. Oxy sensor (O2 or lambda): used only in steady-state cruise and very light loads. Constantly adjusts mixture from slightly rich to slightly lean, which ensures your cat has enough oxygen going through to burn up any nasties left behind. Crank angle sensor (apart from timing ignition and injection) doesn't directly affect mixture but does tell the computer whereabouts on the fuel and spark maps it should be looking. Obviously you can't modify this signal for mixture. That's all I got

Oh yeah sorry forgot, early e-series had single cats. I think with the twins that's how they got 175kw up from 165 on a single. Hooker aerochamber should sound sweet. Can be a bit slappy or raspy but the cats normally kill that off and mellow it out lots.

The best way to get some V8 rumble is to go twin cats and twin system. Next best is twin cats and resonators then joining to a single muffler before the diff. Using a single cat will merge the V8 pulses early on and you'll end up with a monotonous tone (like a 6 as you described). Not running a resonator could have your car droning like a bitch but it's hard to predict that.

Yeah cheers Ando, I found what you described on my old XB motor which has the valve covers off and half of those shitty seals were riding up the valve and the other half were still attached to the guide. Good info on the e-series stem seals too, cheers for that

I managed to trim my 6 cyl tacho to V8 calibration by using the trimpot on the back of it. Turned out to be only 50 rpm out at 3000... Not a bad guess. Checked against my MSD laptop readout. Mine's an XE

One thing that is on your side is that it's a factory Ford alloy. They made them very beefy (as they did Snowflakes) to pass their durability testing. It's odd to see such a defect in a quality factory part. I know that welding cast is a bitch, but any aluminium welder will be able to tell you yes or no if it's fixable. Another option is to clean it up with some vinegar and squirt some wicking grade Loctite into it (this is exactly the sort of thing it's designed to do) depending on the size of the hole of course. I don't believe it would be a stress fracture given how strong factory alloys are. I think there would be some obvious signs of damage if it was a fracture, and that area doesn't seem to be anywhere near where the stress points are (ie where the spokes join). I think it's either corrosion or porosity.

No Ando you are 100% wrong lol... No seriously, on a diesel more fuel = more bang + more heat. So if you're starting to cook your exhaust, wind back the fuel and boost will drop accordingly along with EGT. I'm not aware of any factory diesel setup that includes a pyro in the ECU inputs (a factory tune would just be way on the safe side) however it is often used when diesel tuners want to squeeze more out of a particular setup without pushing it over the edge and burning out valves. Anyway I digress.... Petrol is a bit different and you probably could dial in a bit more fuel to cool the charge but the exhaust side might still get hot from unburnt fuel burning in the red-hot manifold/turbine, which is not good for long periods. I know XR6T exhaust valves are made from a different material (InconneI I believe) and possibly the seats too. Seat design not sure of.

I know that fitting a turbo to a non-turbo diesel or upping the boost on an already turbo'd one requires fitment of a pyrometer to the exhaust manifold. This is to prevent burning out of the exhaust valves. If you think of the compressor side and how much heat is generated by compressing the air, then picture the turbine side that is also compressed (from driving the turbine) and the gases are already hot to start with. The manifold and turbine housing can radiate heat away but the valves never get a break, their only means of heat dissipation is through the stems and seats.

I do tend to drive short trips, as it's only 8 km to work. The big Clevo is barely lukewarm by the time I get there. This means the consumption might be higher than if I was doing a lot of motorway or country cruising. I don't have a problem tipping a slurp in now and then as I get it for shit but I just don't want it to get out of hand. It's a bit embarrassing starting my "old clunker" in car car park full of Hondas and Camrys and getting looks because of the big puff of blue smoke coming out the back

Fuck I hope it's not rings. I hate doing jobs twice

I don't think so, might pull some later and look. Definitely not fouled (car goes great). Worn exhaust valve guides won't foul plugs as the oil goes straight out the exhaust.

Luckily mine's as dry as an arab's fart all over so I've got a good one obviously

Thanks Butcha. Good advice about the synthetic oils... I only use mineral in old gear. Pulled the oil cap while idling, not much blow by at all, PCV works fine, passes the usual test. Engine runs great, revs nicely, plenty of oil pressure. If it is rings, I'll be even more shitty about it than if it's the heads.

In that case a wagon diff (3.23) or ute (3.27) is the go. Good luck finding a limo version, maybe look for H/D tow pack? Fairmont Ghia wags?

E-series is a bolt-in with an imperial (car) to metric (Diff) brake line adaptor. Tail shaft needs to go with it too, unless you want to swap drive flanges (not recommended unless you want to do the pinion seal while you're at it). If you like ripping it, go for an XR6/8 ratio (3.27 I think)

Whine = bearings or gears... No LSD = worn cones. Two separate things I'm afraid. Fully rebuilt 28 spline diff, hub to hub, would be about a grand. Looking at over $200 just in parts, depending on what you've fucked already and what's salvageable.

You can run a spacer between top and bottom parts of the gear lever to get it over closer to you, with longer bolts to suit.

My EF had same problem, turned out to be bad supply at fuse box. Could be a smartlock thing?

Gonna do that too.. I got access to hydraulic hose, bundy tube, fittings, etc so it would cost me nothing to do it except time but for all the pissfarting around I'll just bite the bullet and go with a proper replacement factory one.

Don't try and bend the alloy lever... And don't ask me how I know

Excellent all-round tool for bleeding/draining just about anything. I use them at work for bleeding up diesel fuel systems when changing filters, etc. also you can suck out power steer fluid, drain diffs without popping the cover off, empty coolant overflow tanks, the list goes on. A must for any garage I say.

That's the same as the boat setup I mentioned... Electric pump, tee-offs to the carbies, return loop and no check valve. The sheer flow was enough to create excessive pressure and flood the strommies.

Sounds like the latter unfortunately. Obviously your alt light works? Fusible link from alt to batt ok?

One method I use when bleeding brakes solo is to pump the fluid back up into the master from the callipers by pushing the pistons back one by one. Good time to siphon it out of the reservoir and replace it. Also when pumping the pedal up, don't release too quickly as it will suck air past the piston.