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I think I know where you're coming from but mine doesn't line up with anything, no matter which way you rotate it. I have a feeling your bellhousing might have been for a narrow-pattern toploader, whereas mine is drilled for a wide-pattern. It has the bosses cast for either but only the outer ones are drilled. I've seen a toploader box with both patterns drilled (8 holes).

Just bought a stage 1 from this mob for my Clevo but not installing it till my T5 is ready to go in. If this clutch has 6 bolt holes like in the picture, you should get your flywheel drilled for the extra 3. Had it done on my EF as well as lightened and it was much nicer.

Those wheels look like Audi 15" alloys. I tried a set on mine once but the wrecker gave me one odd one so I took them back and put SAAB 15" steelies on. Hard to get now as most euro stuff went 5-stud in the 90s.

Blue gasket = re-usable, brown gasket = crappy fall-apart gooey cork thing

I can't dismantle to see but I should imagine that to be true, to stop the chassis getting squashed as you tighten the bolt.

Photos are crap but the brackets on mine are just pieces of 2x2" angle iron bolted through the chassis rail.

Oh yeah forgot about the shaft diameter. Lol those shifters were ancient things... Even a workmate of mine who is a Holden head and has an XU1 reckons they were rubbish

My coupe's got one but it was fitted 30 years ago and is pretty dodge by today's standards<br /><br />Axle bracket:mounting at bodythrough-chassis mount bolt

Just out of curiosity, could you use a 3-speed?

Also could use a bit more float level. Some argue that it's a fixed setting that shouldn't be messed with but my argument is that if it's not supposed to be a variable thing, why does Holley make it adjustable? In my experience, it's a very useful method of tuning, especially the transition from idle/transfer to main circuit. Maybe try the usual setting of just lapping the bottom of the plug hole then screw out the adjuster 1/4 turn at a time to raise it a bit. This might just cure your cruise/load hesitation. You might need to jet up a tad If it's still there.

Sorry didn't read your post correctly.. You didn't ask about acc pumps but hey now you know anyway

Stock 30cc should be more than enough. 50 cc would only be needed on a crossy if running methanol or E85. Makes no difference anyway if you just swap the pump and nothing else. You need to step up the pump cam to increase the stroke to get the extra CCs. 31 squirters should be fine but I reckon even smaller would be better. I run 28s on my 302 no dramas at all. Going bigger in your squirters doesn't give you more total fuel, just dumps it in quicker.

Ok gotcha. You could do away with the entire layshaft and driven gears then. Fuck 5.8s.... That's rock-hopping gears!

Ando if you really want strength I'd stick with the good old single rail. If they're any heavier at all, it would only be by a couple of kilos due to the iron case. The T5 has some things about it that I reckon were a step backwards for strength, like the steep helical cut on the gears, which made it quieter but gave a lot more end thrust. This works the thrust bearings pretty hard, particularly if using any gear but 4th. Single rails have their faults too, but overall I'd like them much more than the T5 if only they had another gear. Might have a couple spare SRs once I do my T5 swap

As for shaft dimensions, I believe they're all the same on all Fords, and are top loader size (10-spline, 1-1/16" dia). However the primary reduction gear (the one attached to the shaft) that also doubles as 4th gear dog varies a lot between the different ratio Ford boxes, with different numbers of teeth for each. There were 3 or 4 sets of ratios available: most often referred to by the 1st gear ratio. The later 6cyl ones were 3.43, EFI 3.50, earlier 250 and 302 had 3.06, and 351s had a really tall 2.46. As long as you match the shaft to the ratios in the box you'll be right. I've come across some info elsewhere that has tooth counts and techo stuff like that. Best boxes for circle track work would be the close ratio, taller 3.06 and 2.46 boxes. Don't bother with Chylsler or any other ones, they were all different apparently.

Dammit I miss my TF

Yeah that's it double it up, from batt + all the way to starter, same goes for earth to chassis and to battery -. You can use one big lug at each end with the 2 wires crimped together or a separate lug for each wire and bolt them together at the terminal. Either way you should sweat some solder down into the crimp to eliminate that as a weak spot. Dunno how many times our breakdown truck has given us grief from having the batteries moved right down the back (down next to the crane). Not only was it slow cranking but they never charged properly either. All from voltage drop. As soon as I put a second set of batts in down the front, we've never had to think about that shit any more. Also as a rule of thumb, cranking amps for: 4cyl - 80 amps 6cyl - 120 amps 8cyl - 180 amps Depends on compression and cam, etc but that's a rough guide

That sounds like about 300 amp. You can never go too big except if your limitation is cost and weight. At that distance I'd twin it (if you have enough) to allow for voltage drop. A bloody decent set of jumper leads will often mean the difference between working and failing. You'll break your back carrying them though. Same goes for batt cables (and batteries)... Just get the biggest, dumbest meat-axe battery and cables and you're already ahead.

It's often a resistor that does the calibration. Change it for a larger value to read less per pulse

When doing a manual conversion in my EF, I had to bridge that neutral switch connector so it would start and also put a particular resistor into one of the wires so the computer thought it was plugged into the gear position sensor (which is a variable resistor inside the auto box) and in "drive". Otherwise it would think it was in neutral. Never quite fixed the high idle problem until I fucked with the ISC valve itelf.

Is it dependent on load? Can you feather it slowly past that point or is it a sudden cut-off? If so I'm leaning towards neutral switch. Knock sensor will only come in under load. Not sure about AUs, but BAs have a rev limiter when in neutral to stop you revving it up and slamming it into gear. If that's the same with yours, sounds like could be doing things opposite to what it should. Maybe it thinks it's in neutral when in gear? Have you done anything to make it think it's not in neutral? 2500 on a V8 tach is 3333 rpm when hooked up to a 6

3000/8 x 6 = 2250

I wish I could explain it with fewer words but I can't. I really need pictures.

Peak torque = maximum cylinder filling, which is when you need the least timing because more mixture is squeezed into the chamber thus burns quicker (not counting rpm advance). Horsepower is a multiple of torque and rpm, so if you make more torque at a given rpm, you make more power. A big cammed engine makes its peak torque up high so the timing curve starts very advanced (because cylinder filling is poor down low) but tapers back the higher you go. As this happens, the need for rpm advance increases so it's back up to roughly where it started down low so a race-oriented engine like yours Slydog would have a near-flat curve. A stock engine is the exact opposite, where good initial timing would be around 10 degrees, to match the torque characteristics of that engine. As rpm increases, the cylinder filling becomes less and thus more timing is required to complete combustion... Say 40 deg. So stock engines need a wide advance for their torque curve but many race engines can get away with flat timing, say 30 deg (no advance at all).

That's a pretty mild cam by the looks of it, lift seems to be the only major difference from a stock one. Kind of like a towing cam, should be a good streeter with a decent exhaust. Just don't expect it to be a screamer that's all