gerg

I had that exact idea after reading this! Crossy inlets are a perfect candidate for this kind of thing. Would like to hear/feel the difference some time.

To me it's a band-aid fix, just like balance shafts in engines that have inherently poor balance. Still, sounds like a novel approach to a problem that can't be otherwise solved with single-carby manifolds. One would assume that it's purely race-oriented and tuned for max efficiency at high-rpm, and low-speed cylinder balance is not important. The article itself is great on technical detail, very impressive.

Headers: how about block huggers? Not exactly ideal for power but take up only slightly more room than stock manifolds. ECU: There are plugins that can bypass earlier smartlocks, can't remember what they're called. Is there one that someone here knows to suit your EEC-V?

A Geelong Foundry (GF) casting mark is an "F" inside a "G" which is just a modified Cleveland Foundry mark with the C changed to a G. The HF4 might be Honda Foundry, as Ford commissioned them to design them, but not sure for how long Honda made them before handing production over to Ford. Anyone shed some light on this?

Sorry yeah here I am waffling on and didn't realise those carbs were suck-through. I thought those things died out in the 80's. You can't intercool a suck-through setup as the whole thing becomes a bomb if the engine decides to backfire.

Nice explanation there ando

Yeah you'd be right there. Sounds like a variation of a dual-stage power valve, (that's if it has a power valve function off boost as well) but instead of the second stage coming in under vacuum, it needs to see pressure before opening. It would need this kind of enrichment because the booster normally only sees flow at atmospheric pressure and is calibrated as such, but go introducing boost pressure at this point and the air density increases. As the booster only sees flow, not mass, it cannot compensate for the extra air going in. The boost-referenced power valve is meant to compensate for this extra mass of air under boost and add a proportional amount of fuel.

They specialise in bugs (as in VWs) so it's Bugget... Yeah I know crap name. I really like the adjustable main jet though. Always thought of it but never saw it till now

You can use any dizzy with an MSD (and crank trigger) as long as there is a way of locking the timing. You need to lock your vac advance plate and the mechanical advance to max timing and the unit retards it back to where you program it. Biggest hassle is rotor phasing but we'll get to that once you decide what you're going for.

Lol what have I created

One dead lifter at idle will make a cyclic noise at about the same rhythm as you'd clap your hands giving applause. Weird analogy but there you go. If all of the lifters were crook, it would sound more like that bit of plastic shoved in the wheel spokes of your bike when you were a kid. A bent pushrod would be same as a crook lifter with a misfire in time with it, heard through the exhaust.

Sounds like a pretty good way of cleaning up a dirty engine, also ATF or Hydraulic oil works well in small amounts. Be careful on engines with some k's on the clock: you can do damage by cleaning them up too much. As the piston and bore wears, carbon builds up around there and takes up the clearance. If you go and dissolve that away, you end up with big clearances, a smoky motor and bad compression. I've seen it first hand on a tired old Toyota Crown that my mate shoved some Mobil 1 into. It cleaned it up so much that the oil from the blow-by could be caught in a milk bottle and tipped back into the engine after a few hours driving. It idled on about 4-1/2 cylinders.

You can get them neutral balanced already can't you Thom?

I wouldn't use straight diesel in a flat-tappet motor: not enough lube quality to keep the cam and lobes happy. Maybe dilute the existing oil 25% max.

Can't imagine anyone bothering to install anti pump-ups in a cooking variety 200 cube. Probably more like worn lifters or dirty check valves in them. Try a bit of engine flush or lifter quiet. Failing that, cam and lifter swap (or complete 250 swap).

Cast stocker mate, but dunno how that extra gusset on your alloy one interferes with your bracket without having seen it. I'd say it's there for extra strength because alloy isn't as strong as iron so needs reinforcing.

What about Ford AFL1MC, do they work? Also Baldwin B2 is another Z9 and nicely made (in USA) have a nice thick case.

My Clevo picks up one of the pump bolts as an alt bracket mount. Maybe a long bolt and spacer is needed?

Did my time on Benz buses and they were forever throwing fan belts. They were long and whippy (1st problem) and the idler used to flex under engine torque (2nd problem). Shorten your belt if possible. Check your alt bracket for rigidity to make sure it isn't deflecting under load and I'd even step down the crank pulley to water pump size or smaller so the belt isn't turning so fast and expanding from centrifugal force.

It's not much more of a stretch to go for the best like BigCav said, and the programmable bit is pretty awesome. The term "boost retard" is a bit of a misnomer for that function because it really is just a fancy programmable vac advance. They call it boost retard because it works in a scale of absolute pressure (not vacuum), and can be used with 1-bar map sensors (atmo engines) or 2-and 3-bar (turbo/blown setups). Once you get your head around it, you'll never look back.

Yep very correct, my bro XPTCrossy is shoving a toploader behind a single rail bellhousing and needs to drill and tap 3x holes. His toploader has been drilled for both wide and narrow patterns so he's a bit spoiled for choice. T5s have the two bottom holes much lower than a single rail and when mounted on a SR housing, these bolt holes overshoot the mount pad by about 1/2" below, giving nothing to mount to.

Yeah seen that mod done, looks impressive and strong but still needs furnace welding. Would be rather expensive too and every mod I pay for on a stocker could go towards buying the complete proper housing. My toploader housing is just your standard US unit meant for a 164 tooth flywheel and mechanical clutch linkage (no slave mount). SR housings have a shorter mounting face that won't line up with some toploaders.

lol nitrous thread

Lol Silver Frost... The poor man's Hylomar but it works!