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Or grandpa's axe... It's had 4 handles and 3 heads, but it's still the same axe.... "They don't make em like they used to" [emoji23] But seriously, what's in a number anyway? The authorities don't really care as long as their criteria is met, so whatever it takes to get the old girl rolling again, I say do it. These cars were made to last a dozen or so years so the manufacturer's weren't too concerned about long-term identification. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think he means EL onward, which use the throttle-mounted ISC valves. If you wanted to use the later valve on the early remote setup, you'll need an adaptor plate with hoses coming in and out Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Unless it's still with the car it came from, it's worth no more than any other square block Cleveland... and that's assuming it's in good condition ie: no water jacket corrosion, no core shift, hasn't been bored too far, etc. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

G'day mate, decoded from this site: https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/ford_falcon_identification J = Australia G = Geelong/Broadmeadows 34 = Fairmont Sedan U = 1978 M = July Number is just a serial K = 8 cylinder Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I would say 2W for them too, bulbs can go dark over time so new ones might brighten it up just from being new Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I really wouldn't, you may well melt the globe holder or dash cluster itself if the globe gets too hot. We had this problem on some plant equipment at work, a bank of indicator lamps are supposed to take 2W globes and we were putting 4s in. My suggestion if you can't find the right one is to put 24V globes of the same wattage you were going to put in, they may be a tad dull but won't get hot like something in 12V that's too high wattage. Another option is LED wedges, which don't get hot, but you'll lose your dimming function. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

No I think it's actually the other way around... Having a clevo takes you from being on your your death bed to happy face, healthy mullet and 'stache Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Reasons why you'd do this: - Cheap and easy to get (roughly $110 from Ripco trade) - Extra clearance to headers - Easier, lighter to fit/remove - Mod is easy... Just need 9.5mm drill and a hacksaw. Die grinder optional if you want it pretty. Downsides: - You have to do this mod to every one, or swap housings over from old to new. - You will screw your warranty before even bolting it on (if brand new of course) - Clearance to the pitman arm/drag link is very tight once installed. - Starter cable may or may not reach (solenoid sits pointing down, not sideways). - You get a pissy whizzing sound like a 4 cylinder, not the good old solid "chunk-whirr" like the direct drive Bosch one. Just doesn't suit an old V8. Anyway.... Drill out 8mm holes to 9.5 (3/8") Mark out where you aim to cut. On the genuine Bosch ones, they had double the amount of ribs and you cut back the first rib all the way to the second.... so on this one (OEX) I would only go halfway to the next one. Front view Roughed out with the hackasaurus (Note: I've marked the cut a bit further down to make it a smooth radius to the face). Carved out with a die grinder and half-round file: Top view: You really don't need to remove any material below the "at rest" position of the pinion. The amount removed with the hacksaw will suffice. I just made it all look pretty because it was like carving butter with the die grinder on this soft alloy, took no time at all. Pics to come of it installed (showing clearance to pitman arm). Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yeah she cranks and fires much more quickly now that you say that Bear, I reckon less than a second. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Head mill is fair enough. There's quite a bit of setup work involved, especially if the valve hardware gets in the way of the spacers, getting the head sitting square to the table, the labour needed to do the cut itself (most shops are over $100 an hour just for that), plus wear and tear on machinery, overheads, rent, it's a tough gig doing your own business. If it's just a plain surface grind, that should be a lot cheaper. They just pass the head over a rotating wheel to basically put a new surface on it, but that really won't correct any warpage it might have. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The exhaust crossover hasn't rusted through? Brake booster failed? Is there fuel dripping out the boosters? If it only idles above 1700, the throttle will be open so far that the idle screws will do nothing anyway, seeing as that circuit won't be working at that amount of opening. Is the EGR connected? Is the passage blocked off? I dunno, just clutching at straws here mate Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

My mate's XB coupe had similar issues and I think I've described them before on here, and after pretty much doing everything you did (throwing parts like grenades at it), turned out to be the supply to the electronic dizzy coming from the old points 9v resistor wire. Went direct from the battery and vroom! Started first kick. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Header clearance Drag link/pitman arm Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I figured that soft alloy won't hurt anything in there, but probably a good idea for those who aren't rough-as-guts like me. Another option is to unbolt the housing from the motor and do it separately, that way the pinion and shaft are out of the way of the hacksaw. I just turned it upside down and hit it with some brake clean, called it good. The Bendix is generally pretty well sealed, after all the starter does cop a bit of clutch dust over time. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Some crunchy bits in there? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

7.3 Zilla.. yes please. If they're around the same price as a coyote, I know which one I'd choose. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Re: sump mods... normally, you can never have too much oil, so I'd say go for it... But if you're only doing short trips, the oil will always be cold, and even more oil will stay cold for longer. So I wouldn't bother modding the sump unless you knew that the oil capacity and temperature would be an issue. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yeah I remember the exhaust crossover port being huge. It's about the size of a Windsor exhaust port. Not needed in Aussie climate. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I would be interested in seeing down the throat of one as I clearly remember how bad my blue 2Vs were before I gave them some love Yeah me too. I have a feeling that early Aussie 2Vs were shockers, for the size of the ports they don't deliver ... They're only marginally better than a 351 Wheezor. I remember reading something like 180cfm on them whereas US 2Vs go up around 200. That's around 40hp difference when calculated out. I think it's just in the way the throat is cut in them, and the short turn is horrible. Also the casting roughness and daggy parting lines were shitty down the port. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think you're right there Action Man, but I think that first "letter" is just an upside-down 1. They don't use "I" in their codes to avoid this confusion. I reckon it was stamped wrongly ie: backwards, meaning it should read "1J14" 1 = 81 J = October 14 = 14th day That's the only way I can see it lining up with the usual layout. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I have never built a Crossy but I've learnt lots from here. The old regulars who are experts rarely chime in nowadays so we're left with us to carry the torch. They're just engines, so if you've screwed a few together before, you'll have no dramas building a reasonably stout street combo. Making one go like a V8 takes a lot more time, money and expertise than it would to just build a V8. It's something you'd do if you just really love crossys. I would treat the rods as if they were stock Windsors. A set of ARPs should have it hang together fine up to 6k, but past that and the crank harmonics start playing havoc with the bottom end and cam timing. You'll start to need a massive balancer, good crank/rod balancing, maybe use an EF-EL crank (counterweighted). Building past one horse per cube on these starts to become expensive. Using the yardstick of V8 builds that go one horse per cube, you'll need quite a lot more camshaft than they do (due to small ports/valves, big cylinders) requiring a stout top end. Revving beyond that needs good breathing, and it's hard to fit bigger valves in a bore that small without compromises. The ports are pretty well-shaped, with generally smooth transitions and decent castings. They're not horrible like a standard 2V clevo, so it's harder to get the same gains. For instance, my clevo 2Vs only have about 3 hours of port work in them, but I reckon that's easily gained them 10%, just by smoothing the bowl and short turn, and tapering the guide boss. On a Crossy, you might spend 3 times that amount to get the same increase, because the ports are better to start with. The small valve size is the biggest hurdle. I think the actual problem is that they will end up touching each other if too big. Also, special machining of the seat inserts is needed so one will clear the other. You need specific knowledge of these ports to get the best out of them without going backwards. This knowledge is so specific, that the gurus generally keep their work a secret, as it's their speciality business (speedway, etc). The alloy head can take some compression, but I wouldn't go too silly. Aim for a dynamic comp of around 8.5 (online calculators are available) but that requires selecting a cam to suit. Which brings me to camshaft. I always say... Start with the cam and build the engine around it. 250 at 0.050 on a 108 LSA is pretty damn wild, that would be a real handful of an engine with those cam specs. I mean... Full race spec. I would expect static comp to need more than 11:1 with that much cam. I wouldn't be surprised if you would rather need something around the 230 @ 0.050" on a 110 LSA. This of course needs beefier springs (mandatory anyway) and retainers, pushrods are a funny length (something like Buick V8 fits) so upgrading them could be a bit of a task. Clevo roller rockers are a bolt-on, so no trouble there if you want to source some other than the ones you mentioned. Being a wagon... I know they're pretty heavy (I have an XE) so you'll want torque to get it moving. I would focus on filling out the torque curve rather than aiming for absolute top-end. Play to the engine's strengths I reckon. Your induction side seems pretty sorted. 600 will get you the power you need, maybe even a little bit on the large side, but ok down leg boosters will help at lower rpm. General rule is target HP x 2 equals CFM needed. I honestly don't think you'll get to 250rwhp without cubic amounts of money thrown at it. I think 200 is a more realistic figure and even that has to be a pretty healthy street engine. Keep in mind, they had half that standard. 250rwhp is way beyond even NA Barra territory, and they have heads that flow nearly double what a stock crossy can. Sorry I don't have any proven "X list of parts equals Y amount of horsepower" formula, just a general approach from what I've learnt myself over the years and from others on here who actually do tinker with these things. You seem to be on top of most of it, but I think the hp figure you quoted will be hard to reach without speciality parts and know-how Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

You're getting old mate to skim them though, right? That gasket face looks like the surface of the moon Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That's still not too bad for a low volume, speciality piston. Remember when a good set of forgies were $1500 maybe 30 years ago? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

But being that far down the hole still, the closed chambers act as opens. Not the end of the world but you lose the advantage of actual open chambers with their unshrouded valves, yet don't have quench action like a proper closed chamber does. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That and an open chamber... Compression on them is total poo. No wonder they were considered a slug. I wish I'd gotten on the bandwagon a long time ago and built up a good healthy streeter... I like nothing more than to see an orphan engine punching above its weight. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk