gerg

Cause 185s coming close on a Falcs... Sum-ting-wong there

I would say yes but from a roadworthy point of view, that's on the absolute limit of clearance. Is this in your Datto?

You can sweat the pins on the old gauge out of the circuit board and solder them into your current one. If the transducer needs 8v and it gets it from the cluster, there must be some kind of voltage regulator in there to achieve that 8v

Good to see you getting your hands dirty instead of dropping the thing off at the dyno and throwing cash at them. You'll stress about it now but you can keep all of this stuff in the old memory bank for later. 350s have huge PVCRs, something like those on a 750. Everything in a 350 circuit is bigger because the engine sucks fuel/air through 2 barrels instead of 4. Since you're running so much carby on a small engine (relatively), those air bleeds are too big. A carby that size is tuned for a warm street 350 cube and upwards. Less cubes mean less idle bleed needed for a given rpm. Is it a modern 570 with screw-in air bleeds?

No chance of sucking the wire into the engine, as the emulsion wells will stop it. You could plug the secondary PV as Sly said and jet to suit. Many Holleys come without a secondary meter block, they have a simple metering plate instead and the bowl just bolts onto the body around it. I don't know why they bother with secondary PVs as you're at WOT when they open anyway.

You're really getting deep into the realms of carby tuning where the outlay for the various tools, etc may start to become expensive. You'll benefit most from having a set of jet drills, but a good set isn't cheap. If however you're right into it and want to learn all about it, then go for it. That's how i got into it. If you can grab that 350 meter block and compare the PVCRs to your current one, they'll have to be noticeably smaller for it to make the difference that you're looking for. In the interim, you could perhaps jet down the secondaries to compensate. Not the best approach but will do for now.

Yep you're on the right track. Jet for cruise, PV channel restrictors give you load enrichment. Try pulling out the power valve and installing little hooked bits of wire into the restrictors to reduce the flow area. It's very fiddly but it's an age-old method of tuning PVs and you can then determine the next move after achieving the right AFR. You cant make the PVCRs smaller without bushing and re-drilling or tapping for motorbike jets. Might just be easier to get a different meter block (Hume Performance sells them) and go from there.

Well fuck my horse

Sly could the 2nd PV you fitted have been a tad more restrictive? There are different types available, some standard and others high-flow. Really your power valve channel restrictors should control the amount of enrichment, not the PV itself. But good advice as you just never know 100% what a particular change will do.

PV will still be open at wot no matter what number you use. Agree with Ando on the air bleeds. Lean idle could be a vac leak somewhere. Is the PCV ok? I know that's an obvious answer but whenever you're stumped by something, go back to basics. I know Holleys can be a bit hit-and-miss but it's hard to believe that a street avenger would be that far off. Double check that you dont have any blockages in the air bleed passages. Plenty of stories out there about carbies having swarf in them from new. What sort of cam are you running? If it has a lopey idle, you'll be getting incomplete combustion and that will read lean on your meter despite it smelling rich out the exhaust. You can pump as much fuel in as you like, if it's not being burnt then it will always read lean. An oxy sensor senses oxygen, nothing else. Try bumping up your base timing If you cant get any adjustment from the idle screws, you might have the throttle cracked open too far, also as Ando pointed out. One trick i use is to block an air bleed with my finger when it's idling and that forces the circuit to go rich. If that makes any change to your AFR then you're on the right track.

Sounds like plenty of vitamins in that one... Love it!

Ok Clevo heads... I've had enough of this fucking oil pump playing silly buggers on cold mornings and want to bin it for a proper one. Anyone out there done a sump removal without taking the engine out? Running no ancillaries except for alternator.

Looks a bit crusty there mate, also I've had the little clip that holds the plugs together break off, meaning the plug can come apart very easily.

The id tag is the one to look at. The Ford number is the first one: 82DA: 1982 "design Australia" 7003: gearbox AB: a particular revision to the part The BW number is harder to find. 0503 is the model number of any Single Rail. 019 is the variant but i cant find any info on that. You'll just have to count 1st gear ratio and conclude from there what you have. My XE box has 0503 015 on it. It has a short 1st so it's a 6-cyl one. Yours might be an EFI one or V8.

Those glass ones are only slightly less shit than scotch locks.

Cunt!

If they sit higher, they might hit the plenum and/or throttle body, for which there is a runner spacer that adds about 10mm to the height overall. Any other issues i really don't know.

Wont be a ute one as they sat where the rear footwells would be on a wagon (same floor pan). I think wagons had the same tank dimensions as XC sedans and earlier but are shallower in the top half and have less capacity (65 instead of 80 litres)

Nah my job was done ages ago, if you want the thread it's yours lol

Nah Scorpions are good so not likely to be the problem... So I'm out

Nah he started turning it into a speedway car then left it in my yard for the next 5 years. Went to the tip after that. Could have fixed it if he could be bothered. Rust in the area was the main cause. Simple weld and paint would have done the trick.

Had a mate's XE ute do exactly this, could pinch your finger in it if you held onto it while driving, it used to open up that much.

Could it be the side off one of the pivot bearings? Do you know what brand the rockers are? There's a certain cheap brand that gets a mention very often on here whose rockers have let go in catastrophic ways many times before.

Yeah everyone goes on about red motor 202s in Toranas, etc and they're not even the best red motor. I reckon 186s are nicer. I drove a 2M-powered Crown for a while which was a 2.3 litre six. Even when it was clapped out and running on 4-1/2 cylinders with Toyoglide auto behind it, it still managed to reach 80 mph. Cubes help to make horses but only up to a point. You start going backwards as stroke gets longer So 3.3 litres of crossy goodness is nothing to sneeze at and I'd love to see what someone can squeeze out of an NA one screaming to 7 grand with a bunch of triples strapped to it

Has it got roller rockers?