gerg

Nah those chugga-chugga pumps are internally regulated by the plunger spring. They pump up to pressure then flow stops. It doesn't hurt them doing this. If you look inside them, they're just a metal plunger moved by magnetic windings that are pulsed by some simple electronics inside it, and inlet and outlet check valves. They're designed to operate on a closed-loop fuel system without a return. They come in different pressure ratings to suit your carby operating pressure. Don't do the t-piece thing without running some sort of pressure regulator. Been there done that on my old ski boat. The return pressure generated by the restriction varies too much with the amount of flow. As you step on it, more fuel goes to the carby and less through the return, which drops pressure exactly when you need it.

Wow nearly 700 bucks worth of bits to run a single strommy. Sounds like good value to me

Yep that's it

They're still a good pump those solid state ones. I'll be going to one of them if and when my mechanical one shits itself. Sounds like you have a bit of shit caught in it. Just buy a new one for 40 bucks and away you go. http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/facet-fuel-pump You should run a filter before it too. There are different pressure ratings so make sure you get the right one.

Nah i meant petrol too. Try it, if it works, keep it that way. One thing to remember is that Ford had a worldwide company standard to meet when designing our Aussie Falcons. In our real-world driving, heated manifolds might not even be needed, and might only be of benefit in the middle of a North American winter, not the mild ones we have here. In saying that, i ran a Redline with a Strommy WW and it had trouble idling in cold weather. Try it.... What have you got to lose?

Put a restrictors in or block off completely the inlet manifold water jacket. Definitely not needed on an LPG engine

Put maximum pressure in your tyres for least rolling resistance

X-series Falcs have big engine bays that can fit some ducting up from under the front bumper. Would benefit a bit to have the carby/intake surrounded by cooler air especially in weather like it has been recently

Take off the factory viscous fan and install electric ones. Quieter, revs more freely and frees up horsepower. Done this on 3 cars now: TF Corty, EA S-Pack and XE Wags and all benefited from it.

Need to find the exact same brand of lifter but good idea

Tri-power sounds good in theory and looks tits, but would be hard to get the outers to run right without having them contribute some kind of idle to the setup. If you were to shut off their idle circuits, there would be a stumble on the transition when you open them. The tri-power has long been proven obsolete by a good single setup, well at least has been on V8s. All that tuning complexity for an inferior result... Looks good though.

^ that's the shit right there

Yeah that is a bit tight, I'd expect to see at least another thou there. Maybe the journal could be polished down a tad?

As Trevor says, no adjustment needed after initial setting. If your old lifters are mushroomed, you may be in a world of poo. In this case, don't try and lever them up though their bores. You'll badly score them and lose oil pressure from then on. You'll need to hold each lifter up with clothes pegs, yank the cam out and push each lifter down into the cam tunnel. I made up a nifty tool to collect them: cut a 40mm PVC pipe in half down the middle, shove it down into the cam tunnel and push each lifter out one by one into it. Carefully remove individually so you don't drop any of them into the guts of the motor.

Yep a lot of old-school wheels had screws holding the cap in place. My old Aunger Hotwires had the same.

EFI manifolds dont lend themselves well to carby conversions due to their poor wet-flow characteristics compared to carby ones. Sharp corners, large plenums and unequal distances cause fuel to drop out of suspension, especially on multi-carb setups where velocity is lower. What about a twin strommy setup using two cut-and-shut stocker manifolds? Twins are better balanced for an inline firing order (like a pair of 3-cylinders). If it just has to be a triple then again you could cut and shut stock manifolds but 3 of them this time. 3 strommies would be way overkill, especially with a balance tube between them. Combined flow would equal a 4-barrel but would idle like a pig and drink like a fish. Each end carby would see uneven cylinder pulsing whereas the middle one would be even. The only proper triple setup would be webers, where each cylinder gets a barrel.

Yeah that sounds right. Got me stuffed then.

Could also be a short in your field windings too

One of the rectifier diodes inside alternator might be stuffed. Blown shunt resistor in your dash (if it has one) could also cause a dim glow when running, as instead of current flowing through it when charging, it goes through the globe only, which is in parallel. This seems more likely as when you rev the engine the volts come up, meaning the field becomes self-energising at that rpm. Below that rpm, instead of your field windings getting full volts through the shunt, they get fed only through the globe, which has voltage drop. Less volts to your field, less charge out. Maybe connect a small jumper from + batt out to the field terminal and run it, check charge volts (to eliminate problems outside the alternator)

Mate if the wreckers charge you more than 20 bucks for a good runner they need rooting with the rough end of a pineapple.

Sorry it's not EGR it's just a plain choke stove port

I think it's because on the US models, that stove was part of a carby spacer that included an EGR port, which was clamped by those longer bolts. A bolt spacer would be fine but any bolt place should stock those 5/16"UNC bolts in any length you want. I take it the manifold's an air gap without the exhaust crossover?

If you have a factory switch on the dash that you don't use any more, you can wire it up so it secretly switches coil power. I use my AC switch to trigger my MSD retard, and as my rear demister no longer works, I'll use the switch as a kill switch when I get around to it.

Pro-form, SuperPro, Competition Warehouse... That first dizzy looks like the procomp one i inherited, except with go-fast red bits. Had a completely wrong curve to it (too early and too much), was two-piece with the shitty lower half that gets stuck in your block, and the vac advance that shat itself after only a couple of months. You pay peanuts, you get peanuts. Buy it once, pay what you need to, and never think about it again.

I think you'll be right... Just