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Free.51

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Posts posted by Free.51

  1. Posted

    Thanks heaps fellas im gonna take the nipple all the way out tomorrow & see if its blocked or not & take it from there. As for the triangle bit on the back of the pad i grinded it down in order to get the caliper over the rotor so yeah im guessing after all the winding back of the piston i did it wasnt enough to clear that triangle shit. The bendix pads didnt have that triangle & the face of the piston has no triangle to line up with the back of the pad so got me buggered but i didnt have that prob on the right caliper so yeah i dunno just see how it goes👍

    deankxf reacted to this

  2. Posted

    Ok after a couple days mucking around & having to swap calipers for a second time the brakes are back on but when my bro & i went to bleed the lhr no fluid was coming out we tried a good 20 + pumps of the pedal but nothing the rhr bled straight away so took the car for a spin & the brakes seem good just like b4 so was wanting to know if driving it around for awhile will the fluid build up in the left caliper & should i try bleeding it again sooner rather than later? Or just leave it as is? Also had a cunt of a time getting the left caliper over the inner pad cos for some unknown reason it has a triangle protrusion so had to grind that down flush with the rest of the pad

  3. Posted

    Tried turning the pistons in with the multi grips but my multi grips (trojan one) are stuffed & slipping so thats that & the slides seem to move back & forth real easy with just the slightest tap of a hammer so i guess thats good so decided to clean the backing plates & brake assemblies & slide pins for shits & giggles

     

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  4. Posted

    13 hours ago, Mr Polson said:

    Stupidly expensive calipers to get, if you can even get them these days.

    I got a pair of exchange ones for my wagon through work, and even on our staff prices they were still pricey. Worth it though for a non sticking, smooth operating caliper.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
     

    Yeah Mark (xtreme karts) mentioned that

    jca25 reacted to this

  5. Posted

    As always nothing is ever easy & now i cant get the pistons back far enough anymore so now i think i might just buy new rear calipers, the left rear is turning but not actually going in any further & the rubber boot is torn & stuffed & the drivers side wont turn at all any more its hard as fuck & the stupid tool keeps slipping off the face of the piston:(

  9. Posted

    Hey guys gotta do new pads on the rear & definately need to machine the right hand rear rotor as the pad was wearing unevenly and the inside of the rotor has grooves in it, my question here is should try to save $25 & not get the left rear rotor machined? Is the lh rotor still useable as is? Heres is a pic ve9d4bd1834f1f1354efd0cf7faef1fc9.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

     

     

  11. Posted

    Well i changed ignition switches with the one i got from Dan (slo247) before & still no difference so took the starter out & was testing it out of the car & its turning over really slowly so im gonna get hold of a cheap second hand one & see what happens

  12. Posted

    17 minutes ago, SLO247 said:

    I do have a known good ignition switch you can have for the price of postage if I can get it out in one piece, I'll have a look at it tommorow if you like.

    The inhibitor switches on C4s do fail, you can get new genuine from the states, same on all C4s I reckon.

    Get a helper to crank the car while you check the voltage on the trigger wire at the starter. If thats good I reckon solenoid or cable issue.

    If you dont have a good 12V at the trigger wire, go back to the plug for the inhibitor switch. The plug sits just behind the engine, has four wires. The two fat ones are for the starter trigger, one comes from the barrel and goes through the switch, the other one comes back from the switch. Bridge the terminals on the plug and see if that makes a difference, or just check whats there with the ignition switch in the start position. If that doesnt help, id go right back to the barrel and see if you're getting that 12V feed with the key turned.

    Just a process of finding where the signal is lost in the loom, if thats the issue.

    Good luck, pretty frustrating issue. Out of interest what sort of starter do you have on it?

    Cheers Dan ill check out the wreckers tomorrow & see how i get on, im hoping its the starter as ive never had a problem in 6 yrs of owning this car til last week 

     

    Starter is a Jaylec automotive 70-0008

    PM'd you👍

  18. Posted

    Hey guys whats involved in changing the ign wires? I took the car out yesterday all was fine then got back switched it off then realised i hadnt parked it perfectly in the drive so went to start it and it wouldnt fire motor turned over but dodnt start then battery went flat so im thinking i should just do the ign wires like FOMOCOHO suggested.

  20. Posted

    1 hour ago, FOMOCOHO said:

    I remember you had it out not long ago, did you check the switch condition then? The plastic warps with age and then doesn't make contact in the right places.

    No i didnt the "new" trans in there now i paid to have put in as i stuffed up the first one by not putting in the torque converter in 3 clicks so i havent really checked the nss tbh

  22. Posted

    10 minutes ago, FOMOCOHO said:

    I said inhibitor switch failure! By-pass it. What trans is it fmx or C4?

    I dont think its the inhibitor switch cos i deliberately put it in drive to start & nothing happened as expected but in P or N it just did 1 tick at a time. The car is home now & ive started it a few times in the drive with no problem........for now

  23. Posted

    28 minutes ago, deankdx said:

    My van does it, solenoid on the starter motor is dodgy i reckon.. 

    if you think it could be the switch, run a  second trigger wire from the starter up to the battery area and try it next time it wont crank touch it on the battery + side(hot wiring the starter motor) can do this with the ign off, it won't start(for safety, just to check it.)
    if it doesn't crank with the hot wire it's the solenoid on the starter, if it does crank, it may need a relay for starter if it doesn't already have one(fit one first if it doesn't have one, they are often needed)
    it's possibly the ign switch but i haven't had any issues with them in 20yrs except on the XG (e series based)

    Yeah i fitted a felay yonks ago on your advice having seen it one of ur threads👍. Ill try the hot wire nxt time it does it. The starter is just under 6 yrs old bought brand new

    deankxf and Valvebouncer reacted to this

  24. Posted

    Ok so last night went to do shopping & take the fd out as always never had any starting issues with it in the 6 yrs ive owned it til last night. The engine would not crank but was making a tic tic noise so we pushed the car out the driveway cos my brother was over & we jump started it off his car even gave the starter a few whacks cos it sounded like it wasnt engaging & still nothing & so we all pushed the fd back into the driveway & i put the battery on charge for a few hours then put it back in & it started fine & so thought job done. Now today i went for a trip to the servo switched the car off came back and the same thing again tic then key off then key on again & tic the guy at the servo let me try some batteries but still nothing so after about half an hour of mucking around i thought im gonna have to call for help & ofcourse i left my phone at home on charge & was ready to walk off after packing everything up & i put my battery back in the the terminals on & though what the hell give it one more go & the engine cracked into life im thinking wtf!!! B4 it was like it was dead as a door nail now its fine so i dont know what the cause could be, anyone have any ideas maybe alternator or starter motor?

  25. Posted

    1 hour ago, deankdx said:

    when you shut the door without the striker, how do the body lines line up? if they are inline front to back door and the gaps are ok then it should be pretty close. the striker is adjustable in and out, also the 4 hinge bolts in wards and out.and up and down. (plus up and down on any angle on the 3 bolt part of the hinge

     

    Havent tried shutting the door without the striker yet Dean but tomorrow after work ill have a play around & see if i can get it spot on, thanks for yor help👍

    deankxf reacted to this
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