Free.51

It's costing $50 to machine both rotors new ones would cost prob more than double that

Cheers Greg

Ok so last night went to do shopping & take the fd out as always never had any starting issues with it in the 6 yrs ive owned it til last night. The engine would not crank but was making a tic tic noise so we pushed the car out the driveway cos my brother was over & we jump started it off his car even gave the starter a few whacks cos it sounded like it wasnt engaging & still nothing & so we all pushed the fd back into the driveway & i put the battery on charge for a few hours then put it back in & it started fine & so thought job done. Now today i went for a trip to the servo switched the car off came back and the same thing again tic then key off then key on again & tic the guy at the servo let me try some batteries but still nothing so after about half an hour of mucking around i thought im gonna have to call for help & ofcourse i left my phone at home on charge & was ready to walk off after packing everything up & i put my battery back in the the terminals on & though what the hell give it one more go & the engine cracked into life im thinking wtf!!! B4 it was like it was dead as a door nail now its fine so i dont know what the cause could be, anyone have any ideas maybe alternator or starter motor?

Got a second hand starter from rusty fords earlier..........and shes alive again woohoo

Well i changed ignition switches with the one i got from Dan (slo247) before & still no difference so took the starter out & was testing it out of the car & its turning over really slowly so im gonna get hold of a cheap second hand one & see what happens

Cheers Dan ill check out the wreckers tomorrow & see how i get on, im hoping its the starter as ive never had a problem in 6 yrs of owning this car til last week Starter is a Jaylec automotive 70-0008 PM'd you

Yep was doing that just b4, still no good

Unfortunately no:(

Thanks Dean, i dunno if its ign or starter relay just got home & put the battery in that i charged overnight & its making that tick noise again so i hot wired it & stil that tick noise:(

Is this what it looks like Dean or is this related to efi est https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/New-OEM-QUALITY-Ignition-Hall-Effect-Switch-For-FORD-FALCON-XE-4D-Sdn-RWD/172566851078?hash=item282dc92e06:g:RyYAAOSwVVRaXeLh

Maybe wreckers Dean?

Hey guys whats involved in changing the ign wires? I took the car out yesterday all was fine then got back switched it off then realised i hadnt parked it perfectly in the drive so went to start it and it wouldnt fire motor turned over but dodnt start then battery went flat so im thinking i should just do the ign wires like FOMOCOHO suggested.

Cheers for the replys guys

No i didnt the "new" trans in there now i paid to have put in as i stuffed up the first one by not putting in the torque converter in 3 clicks so i havent really checked the nss tbh

C4

I dont think its the inhibitor switch cos i deliberately put it in drive to start & nothing happened as expected but in P or N it just did 1 tick at a time. The car is home now & ive started it a few times in the drive with no problem........for now

Yeah i fitted a felay yonks ago on your advice having seen it one of ur threads. Ill try the hot wire nxt time it does it. The starter is just under 6 yrs old bought brand new

Havent tried shutting the door without the striker yet Dean but tomorrow after work ill have a play around & see if i can get it spot on, thanks for yor help

Put new pins & bushes in yesterday & a much better striker today now the door is sitting too high & there is a gap where air is getting through near the b pillar. Is is just a matter of loosening off the 4 bolts again to adjust the door? Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

Yep thats how you aquire tools over time haha, i think ill just do the unbolt the hinges from the door trick & support it on something while i smack out the old pins, thanx for the tips fellas

Ok thanks mate thats how im gonna do it, ill get my bro to hold the door cos i cant completely take the door away cos of the elctrics loom

The top pin is gonna be tricky theres not really any room to line the punch up with the pin, but ill figure something out, cheers for the reply

Ive got new pins & bushes for my drivers door on my FD to put in but im not too sure how to get the old pins out so i thought id ask u guys b4 just whacking away with a hammer & centre punch

You dont need to change the rear bar, i just did it cos i had it lying around off a zk & it made the backend look like an fd thats all

The fuel flap door will fit but from memory i snapped off 1 off the threads so it would fit (youll see what i mean when you do the swap) When you change the boot trim to fd i think youll have a couple of holes exposed from where the fe one was i just kept the fe bootlid which did look a little out of place also are you keeping the fe rear bar or going xe rear bar? I put all the surrounding trim & xe bar on mine Theres some pics of mine in the showroom under "show us ur fairlanes/LTDs