Mr Polson

If you have a close look on the original it may have the amperage engraved on it. Alternatively@SPArKy_Dave probably knows it off the top of his head too. Make sure if you get a new one that it's auto reset not manual. Otherwise if it goes off again for any reason you'd have to stop and reset it to get the lights working as opposed to it cooling down and working again by itself.

I can't remember, but there's either two circuit breakers, one for low one for high, or the main power for the headlights runs through it - and the same issue can occur on either low or high beam.

My wagon had the same issue when I first got it with the high beams, turn them on and after 15 or so seconds it'd lose power to all lights until the circuit breaker reset. That only had standard 60/55 globes. Changed it out for one from a parts car and it's been fine since. The one I pulled out was pretty rusty and corroded looking on the outside, so couldn't have been to great internally.

Circuit breaker is definitely the issue. They look slightly different these days but should be on the shelf at most auto stores (or at least most Repcos). Link is for a 25A one which doesn't seem very common as it's warehouse stock only, but 20A and 30A are readily available. https://www.repco.com.au/en/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/fuses-circuit-breakers/narva-circuit-breaker-auto-reset-25a-1-pce/p/A9263889

If we're talking xflow then you're spot on. My ute was about 2600 (maybe a little higher) when it was 3sp with the 3.23 diff. Sits under 2000rpm now with the T5 (late model box so has a different 5th ratio to earlier T5s). @Panko and I have done comparisons before, his old 2.77 diff with early T5 and my 3.23 diff with late T5 resulted in almost identical rpm at 100km/h. 3sp manual Falcons only had 3.23 or 3.5 diff ratios from factory. I think all Ghias (sedan & wagons) got 2.77, at least in XF. Probably same for Fairlane/LTD. Maybe you could choose the ratio of you ordered one new depending on your driving style/choice? Hence the lack of consistency.

Yeah, like a manual.

FGs have a very different shifter setup to BA/BF, none of the shifter channel is exposed if that makes sense.

For reference, an easy way to tell the difference between the 3.3 5sp and the T5 is reverse location, T5 has reverse under 5th whereas the weak 5sp has it next to 1st. Boxes also look quite different externally.

You can get rubber gaskets for the xflow rocker cover, I've got one on my wagon. Acts as a bit of a spacer too.

Get customers often doing this with the diesel oil, generally older folk that know about it. They much prefer it over engine flush. Here's a chart that includes the zinc PPM of Penrite oils, few have more than 1400

First issue is 10W-30. Bit thin for a crossflow, especially if it's got high kms. Second issue is Castrol. Has a bit of a reputation for being a sludgy oil. I personally use Penrite in all my cars, high zinc levels in their HPR oil which is great for older vehicles, and it's Australian. I'd use either HPR30 or Classic Light if I was you. https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/penrite-hpr-30-20w-60-5l-hpr30005/p/A7960735 https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/penrite-classic-light-20w-60-engine-oil-5l-clasl005/p/A9307311

It's normal for oil pressure to drop as it gets warm. What oil are you using? Wouldn't have a link, bought it in person from a local speciality tool shop. Think it was Toldeo or T&E brand. That was some time ago and I haven't used it since.

Looking at just the video of the rockers I'm going to guess wiped cam lobe, if the pushrods are straight. Don't know where the pictures are anymore but I had a crossflow wipe a cam lobe, was EFI so no carb issues but it was very tappy sounding and lost a fair amount of performance. If the motor is nothing special probably be just as easy to replace it vs repair it - I repaired mine but it was only 10,000km old from a full rebuild at the time.

When I first registered my wagon it had the stock manifold and engine pipe/cat, with only one muffler. Soon gave it a set of headers afterwards, and then a few years later had to put a new cat in to have it re-registered, also put in a full OE wagon exhaust - 3 mufflers, can't say any of it seemed to make any difference to performance

Okay, here's a few pics of mine. Interesting to note coil power and fuel cut off is same coloured wires. Like I said, mine doesn't have any emission controls functioning. Red wire near fuel cut off is Throttle Position Sensor, only on late unleaded XFs with the electronic spark timing. The spring on mine is an aftermarket addition of my own too, added a auto kickdown bracket and then got a beefy spring, I personally prefer the pedal feel with the spring.

Have you had a read through this? http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/7026-ford-registered-technician-bulletin-34-adm-weber-carb Should cover most of the carby questions. I can get some pics tomorrow of how I have the hoses and wires and everything setup on my ute - it's not factory as all the emission stuff is deleted but it runs well.

Go to Tilford for the plugs, genuine plugs are about $10ea, NGK ones through me will be $20 a plug. But everything else I can help with

ZF6 boxes have an internal, integrated control module that controls the box, and talks to the other modules in the car. In other words, there is no external switch on the ZF boxes. There's one multi-pin plug, everything else in internal. Non ABS models had an external speed sensor. If it hasn't been done already, I'd strongly recommend a trans service too. Ford say the ZF boxes are filled for "life" - meaning warranty. Every 100,000kms is the general accepted service interval for ZF6 boxes by aftermarket people. Make sure you use either the ZF Lifeguard fluid, or Penrite do a BMV fluid that meets the specs.

I definitely agree with Panko about the whole 2.77 diff with early T5, or 3.23 kinda ratio for the later ones. My XF ute has a late T5, with 3.23 diff. Panko and I done some comparisons once, when he still had the 2.77 diff, he'd do the same revs at 100km/h with the early T5 and 2.77 as my ute with the late T5 and 3.23. Definitely also recommend the reinforcement of the firewall. If needed I can grab a pic of my ute which has the firewall reinforced. Clutch pedal has never been touched to my knowledge though. And unless you're specifically wanting a manual, they're a really nice vehicle to drive when the auto is working well. I not long ago completed a 4000km trip across Tas/Vic/NSW in my Ghia wagon, with the EFI 250, auto (and working AC). For the long distances, just putting it in D and setting the cruise control is great. For reference, across that trip, with a fully loaded car, AC almost always on (and running R134 gas), and the wrong cam in the motor (carby cam which has different valve timing), I returned an average fuel economy of 13L/100.

Good news is they're cheap, because the Falcon 6 starter motor is the same from 1960-2006 BXS0102 https://www.repco.com.au/en/parts-service/electrical-parts-vehicle-management/starter-motors-drives-and-solenoids/oex-starter-motor-12v-10th-cw-bosch-style-bxs0102/p/A9337980

Do you know what part number? Should be DT22B-BP for example. My experience with Dayco thermostats is they tend to recommend lower temp ones than the car had OE, so it might be listed for the car but be wrong temp still.

Nothing wrong with a few scratches and swirls if it's original old paint if you ask me. Next time you need to clay a car, you can make your life a billion times easier if you get a clay pad rather than the old bars. https://www.bowdensown.com.au/claying-rubber

I do have some other ones I might scan and upload too, general info ones rather than specific vehicles, turbochargers, brake systems, Diesel injection, change to metric.

Got these off my old man from his Ford dealership days. This one refers to the Weber 34 ADM Carburettor used on both 3.3L (200 cubic inch) and 4.1L (250 cubic inch) crossflows in the XE Falcon/Fairmont and ZK Fairlane. Possibly FD LTD if any of them were carby. Very similar to the carby used on XF models - some differences include no return line on carb, fuel bowl vent added, and EST additions in 86 with unleaded.

Updated the original post with clearer, new scans