Mr Polson

Buy a Tridon thermostat gasket, they're adhesive on one side so you can "glue" the thermostat into the housing before assembly

That means put on the shelf at Repco in June 2018. There will also be a stamp there that can decoded into the actual manufacture date, is 4 or 5 digits, with both letters and numbers but I'd have to actually check with Century how to decode them. We just go off the stickers normally, batteries don't sit on the shelf for anymore than 2 months max before Century take them back, recharge them and resticker them.

On the top of the battery is there a small square sticker with a recycle symbol and four numbers? Sticker could be purple, white, orange, green, yellow or possibly other colour.

Any battery made in Australia is a century battery. No other company manufactures batteries here

@Demmo is the battery gloss black or matte? If it's gloss it's a Century battery with Repco stickers, made in Australia. If it's matte, it's a Yuasa battery - owned and distributed by Century but made overseas.

XF had return from pump, XE had return from carby. This is the XE style https://www.repco.com.au/en/parts-service/fuel-ignition-exhaust/fuel-pumps/fuelmiser-fuel-pump-external-mechanical-noglassbowl-fpm-000a/p/A7718853

This one should do the job - may need to swap the fittings to the one from your current pump. https://www.repco.com.au/en/parts-service/fuel-ignition-exhaust/fuel-pumps/fuelmiser-fuel-pump-external-mechanical-fpm-008/p/A7063628

If anyone ever needs anything from Tassie they're more than welcome to try and sort it via me, I don't always have a lot of spare time but I'll do my best. And more than happy to travel statewide, only takes a day to go anywhere in Tassie and back. Going to Devonport after work tonight to buy a car, and still have to be at work tomorrow [emoji23]

Nope, they're different, but you can easily use an auto one for a manual, might just have to enlarge the hole a little. I've got an auto shifter hump in my XF with a T5.

Can't fit power steer to a three speed manual unfortunately. The shift linkages will foul on the bigger power steering box. You'll have to stay manual steer or convert to a 4 or 5 speed on the floor. Ute didn't (and still doesn't) have power steer, but I did fit a ZL column to it, had to extend the length to suit the manual steer box.

Pretty sure it's on the shelf at all Repcos. If not all, definitely the vast majority. https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/greases-lubricants/lubricants/crc-heavy-film-soft-seal-300g/p/A7681836

Simply should bolt on but your dipstick will be in the wrong spot and FG motors don't have a spot to have BA dipstick drilled. Oil pickup will also be different. Wiring and PCM will be different, there's quite a few differences between BA and FG, such as locked dual variable cam vs independent variable cam. FG PCM will be designed to run a 5 or 6 speed auto not 4 speed. Not sure how you'll get around that.

Have fun with trying to flatten out the gasket in the Ryco kit. For some stupid reason they roll them up and put them in a box. What gearbox?

Oh yeah, I'd stay electronic if you can get decent branded stuff. If I was keeping the Cruiser motor I'd have gotten a Pertronix electronic ignition, but once it's Barra'd it'll obviously be distributor-less so I could make do with points for a few months.

Based on my experience with cheap electronic dizzy conversions, either ditch it and go back to points, or get something decent. I had quite a few issues with my Cruiser when I got it, running rough, missing, hesitation under load, backfiring, stalling, all disappeared once I went back to an original points distributor.

Does this help? Straight out of the Ford workshop manual.

You'll have to block one of the hose outlets from the head, and run the other one to the heater core, and then one from the water pump to heater. Heater tap should be in hose from head, and that should go to the centre most heater pipe according to the workshop manual. These are the diagrams from the Ford workshop manual, I've included both carby and EFI because really you're running the EFI style heater hose now

They look like the normal xflow ones. Normally they bolt on the lower manifold holes not top ones, and I think they normally face the other way around.

We have one on the shelf, but the Repco ones use M8x1.25 bolts so no idea on what yours will be.

I don't think we keep xflow water pumps on the shelf anymore, but if we do and I remember at work tomorrow, I'll check what size the replacement pulley bolts are. Replacement pump would have metric thread machined into the hub.

Yeah, most come with new bolts included, converts them from imperial to metric.

DB1075GCT for fronts (if Girlock caliper), in standard Bendix. Swap GCT for HD for heavy duty. DB1045GCT if it's got the PBR calipers. DB1078GCT for the rears. Bendix only do the rears in GCT option. I ran HD Bendix pads on the front of my FG when I got it, and found them to be rather dusty. Both my XFs have GCTs and pull up pretty comparably (minus the 30 years difference). GCTs are definitely less dusty than the HDs, and are also cheaper.

DBA slotted T2s are probably the best rotor for the street. I wouldn't recommend Bendix ultimate for the street, they need to be warm and used hard to be effective. Normal Bendix pads should be fine, of Heavy Duty if you don't mind some dust.

Thats either expensive or mine were cheap, at $250/wheel.

Either or. I think emissions rules mean it should be recirculated into the engine, but that's only a minor detail. Wouldn't think you'd need a catch can on a recently built stockish motor