blu xe

At $165 why wouldn't you give it a go. For so long its always been a case of you get what you pay for but it seems on some things its not always so. A customer of ours has a mustang with a pretty stout 363 Windsor and couldn't keep it cool with a alloy rad and electric fan package all bought through a very well known aussie company. Tried all sorts of the usual tricks to sort it and in the end a cheapy alloy ebay job that cost about what you guys spent with an au fan assembly did the job.

I've used the Clarks rubber ones and if you trim em right the join isn't even noticeable. I start at the bottom edge in the centre then tap it onto the pinch weld with a rubber mallet paying particular attention to the corners making sure they are in place as far as they can go. Once you get down to the join cut the seal ever so slightly bigger than you want and you should be able to with a little force it should slot in there and be virtually invisible if you trim it neatly. A bit of Loctite or super glue will have it finished.

Been a very long time since I had anything xflow powered. But way back in the day I had an automatic xe esp with the efi motor. Was pathetic with the auto. Swapped to a single rail and better. Next was 2 1/2 zorst and extractors and better again. Blew the diff up and swapped to a 3.23 centre and that was probably the best seat of my pants mod by a mile. Being an efi motor and in the mid 90's no one had a clue on how to tune a modded one so crow recommended a cam for it that would run ok with the factory computer. I've got no idea on specs but it idled like a stocker but made crazy torque for the nothing motor that it was. Didn't rev at all but it didn't need to either. Drove like a stocker and blew the doors off plenty of heros in their v6 commies and 3.0 vl's and 253's Then it developed an appetite for distributor gears and I got the shits with it and went to a clevo! Was a fun car with the torquey lazy crossie though.

If you feel you must do a body kit then the MMM kit would be the only one I'd ever contemplate putting on an xf. Only one that's stood the test of time IMO. Anything else looks dog ugly.

I've only driven a couple of 5.4 boss equipped cars one an xr8 the other a GT. Both left me underwhelmed. No offense to anyone with one of these but they didn't do it for me at all. The Miami motored cars would be the shit I reckon and if you were going to the hassle of such a swap it'd be the only way to go.

Mcdonald bros front end like JETFTR is in the process of doing at the moment and that solves all your tower clearance issues. Would be an expensive exercise by the time you got everything done but would certainly be a bit of a weapon.

Mine was a cvr one as well. I only used one of the return springs cause with both on the pedal feel was way to heavy. One worked nice.

Yeah mate might be the safest option and ease your mind. It is easy to get ahead of yourself doing this sort of stuff. Sometimes over enthusiasm can bite you on the ass! Rome wasn't built in a day hey. Lol

Other option is re blast it in smaller sections and epoxy it in more managable sections if your worried about it.

Yes seen many pretty cars turn to shit once they make the move to FNQ. A half assed job doesn't stand a chance in our conditions. This is always something that shits me when someone comes in and freaks out when we give them a rough idea of what they will be paying to have a job that's covered by a lifetime paint warranty and done to a standard that we think needs to be adhered to , to have half a chance of surviving up here.. Its always the case of so and so down the road will do it for half of that then complain about it when it goes to shit cause they were to tight to pony up the proper dollars to get the job done right! A lot of these same people are happy to sink 20g plus into an engine that will go bang the first time its leaned on and are perfectly ok with that cause its a race motor that shit happens! But fark its on like donkey kong if their cheapy $5000 paint job blisters up after 6 months .Go figure!LOL. Rant over back to topic now!

Ando76 is spot on. Metal conditioners when used PROPERLY are awesome. If not done properly though can lead to bigger issues later down the track than if you hadn't used em in the first place. We use a ppg metal conditioner and yes it must be cleaned off with water and nothing but water. This is what neutralises the acids . I totally soak a rag then wipe the bulk off then come back over with 3 more times with damp rags to get the rest off. Then dry with a air. Something else to consider is not letting it get in between seams and joins because it will be hard to guarantee that you have in fact nuetralised it. Which will be hard to do on the underside of the car. To be honest if you've blasted it clean I'd be inclined to just clean up the grit and ep straight over what you've done. With any bare metal prep I do I ALWAYS will only strip as much as I know I can prime straight away. So for panels i'll do say 2 doors at a time. Starting on 1 panel includes paint removal orby finish back to bare once the bulk is gone then metal conditioning then another pass with the orby with 80 or even 40 grit to really key it up then epoxy it immediately. Then move onto the next panel. Up here we have to be very particular with the whole process because of the humidity. It may sound like paranoia but this is what works for me and I've done more than a few bare metal jobs that are 7 plus years old now that aren't showing any signs of funky shit playing up under the paint.

50mm bricky chisel along the edge where it chips over the gutter. Sit edge of the chisel along the trim piece you want off then carefully tap away with a hammer till it releases. Keep working your way along resisting the temptation to just twist it off once you've got a run going. Take your time and be gentle cause once they are farked theres no bringing them back.

Also on the mag wheel cleaner don't use it on your windscreen cause it'll show up very light scratches that you can't see from the wiper blade wear. And yes it is acid based so needs to be thoroughly rinsed with water.

Not sure if its strictly house hold but its in my house hold . LOL. Easy gleam mag wheel cleaner is awesome to get rid of water stains/ calcium build up on glass. Use it in a spray bottle spray it on and let it sit for 15 or so seconds then hose it off. Stains be gone. If they're really bad you might have to hit em a few times. Won't hurt two pack paint if rinsed quickly but not good on acrylic or enamel. Also need to be careful on anodised finishes cause it can mark them.

IMO if your going to be welding it your going to burn the paint on the quarter. Its a shit of a spot and your going to find as soon as you start welding your going to be chasing the rust over a bigger area as the metals going to be thin all around there. The result will be a heap of chook shit looking welds made worse by the body deadener melting between the inner and outer quarter with the heat from the welds. Soooooo in saying all that if the quarter paint is going to get damaged and need painting I'd be drilling out the welds along the wheel lip and cutting a section on the outer to give you much better access to the inner. I'd almost bet my balls that if the inner looks like that the outer is going to be not far behind it. If your not prepared to paint the outer wire wheel the shit out of the effected area so its as clean as you can get it and seal that up and body deaden it.

Don't be tempted or talked into running too hard a pad , all you'll do is chew up rotors. Unless you drive like a tool everytime you drive your car. But then if its anything like up here at the moment the boys in blue will sort out your licence before you need to worry about rotor wear anyway.

Yep degreaser and pressure cleaner is the shit. I go one better and then get a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to suck out the bulk of grimey water. For rear seats lean em up to dry so that any excess water moves towards the rear most edge of the seat base and the lowest point of the back rest. This way if the dirty water leaves a mark you won't see it when the seats go back into place. The grey Scheel interior that went into my car came out of a written off ESP that came from central QLD and was so dirty you could barely make out the pattern in the trim and after hitting them a couple of times with the pressure cleaner and wet vac they came up real good.

Dumped pipes are cool for the first drive after that they will annoy the shit out of you. They resonate through the car blow dust and shit out from underneath as soon as you steer off the black stuff and imo have a ordinary note compared to a nicely done full system.

Should all change from one straight into the other. Mate swapped everything out of an xb into an xf many years ago and it was all change over no issues. Heater hoses on the firewall will need relocating and maybe a little firewall massage where the head may need a bit more room on the passenger side. As said getting it through rego with petrol may be a problem. So simple its a shame ford didn't have the sack to persevere with a v8 xf in the first place.

Holy shit this is one very impressive package! Before coming on this forum there is no way I thought a NA x-flow could go so fast! Well done to all the boys who are running good times and numbers with them!!

Emissions will be the killer. Straight gas may be ok though. Not sure about other states but in QLD you cant use an engine from an older car than the one you want to put it into. And it must have its pollution gear in place and working.

So in saying that if your running a top loader already you only need the tko and its a straight change over. No other changes needed.

Does the tko500 bolt straight up to a toploader bell housing and can you still retain the same hydraulic set up that the top loader was using? Would make for an easy bolt on upgrade if you've got a top loader fitted already.

Yep tend to agree with you. Definately Polynesian green.

Anyone know where Gareth ended up or has kept in touch with him? I remember at one stage he was heading up To FNQ ?? That blokes got mad metal skills! Nesessity is the mother of all invention. I dought they could afford replacement stuff with the pathetic money they get paid over there so they just whip em up themselves! I could sit and watch people who can do work like that with the bare minimum of gear all day long!