n00bus m@x1mus

Personally i would just use a matt black killrust epoxy enamel, cheap, spreads well so you could do the whole tray with 2 coats for about $50-$60 and its hardy, will take a knock if its primed right and easily patched if it does scratch.

Yes you can, but make sure its a clean connection that wont corrode from vapour exposure.

Hard wire the pump to earth then send the pos side of the pump to the 30 pin on the relay. Then from thr 87 pin thru a fuse then to the pos post on battery. 86 pin to ignition switch and 85 pin to the haltech.

Good Job!!! Thats a lot of R&D right there, hope hes paying you well... i know the kind of hours spent on die grinding and smoothing things like that out let alone stopping and checking every turn with the flowbench in the process of it all.

http://www.dragphotos.com.au/p10360511

On my phone so cant check them out but glenn said to check dragphotos.com apparently theres some stuff on there

I dunno if its just another angle of the light trickery but hows the angle of that spark plug??

That odd head with flat tops and 4" stroke would net 10:1 comp easy. Perfect for dedicated gas. But on a 200 it would be arse.

While they are the same shape they still look different to me LOL The old crusty one looks just like mine does but the first one does not. You can see in the second pic the exhaust valve is shrouded by a bullnose edge that tapers up to the outer perimeter of the chamber with a bevel at the outer edge, the inlet has a sharp bevel also. Where as the first picture shows a sharp bevel on both vlaves and a definate shoulder on the top edge of that chamber, a step down rather than a bevel. And that unmarked head looks like the E1s ive seen, that other one WTF! LOL..... Maybe some real early dedicated gas design? Just a thought... any chance nissan went out on a limb with their XFN and commissioned honda to design a different head just for them?

You sure the C1 head hasnt been modified? Looks a lot different to the C1 ive seen, looks like its been mill cut on an angle right across the top face of the chamber there

Ive measured most of them but cant remember all of them. But the E1 and E2 are esentially the same. 57cc & 58cc. The C2 i have hear is 48cc and D heads are 49-50cc. I beleive the C1s where 52cc?

Do people trust them lift plates that bolt down onto the carby flange? They seem like they would be scary as hell with 4 3/8th bolts into an alloy manifold, but every car builder on tv uses them loading on big blocks with autos on the back of them.

And retarded moves the powerband up the rpm scale right?

So that would be retarded 3 degs? So about 6 degs on the crank then?

Sorry beat me to the post

You will also need an Eseries tailshaft from a sedan aswell.

Looks ok, you will need to knock that roll pin out the other side but as its not supposed to be poking out he front side. And it looks the same layout as mine, note the cam pin is in line with the timing mark? This means it will be laying over at 3 oclock to have you cam correct at TDC no1. To adjust you turn the crank with a bar and socket 360 degrees ATDC so the timing marks on the cam gear will be at 9 o'clock... loosen the 3 screws that are sticking out and then crank the motor with a bar 360 degs back to TDC no1, your cam timing marks will now be at 3 0'clock again and then loosen the last 2. Now crank the motor backwards or forwards noting that the vernier gears marks are rolling from R to A, i think there will be about 8 degs either side of TDC, when your desired advance or retard is lined up tighten the 3 screws above the head and then rotate 360 degs to do the other 2. Dont over tighten them or you will strip them and your stuffed then.

I got mine from rollmaster on ebay, was like 200 something i think. They have a weird way of lining up the timing marks, not as u would expect. You dont sit the timing mark at 12 oclock on the cam like the stock one, it sits at about 3 oclock perfectly in line with the top face of the head, then you adjust the cam as needed.

You will increase your track by 60 odd mm but, and that might be a good thing.

Will fit straight in but will run a tad rich. They are 21lb injectors and the el ones were 19lb

Sorry chaise that was directed at the OPs picture above your comment, should have quoted it, my bad

is that for a guage on the dash or for a thermo fan switch? If its for a guage that useless as tits on a bull there, unless u have no thermostat it will simply read cold until the thermostat opens for the first time, then it will read the same temp for the rest of the day, it wont give a true indication of anything except that your thermostat has opened at some point.

Ok thats some good info cheers, im not looking to race it at all in the grand scheme of things, but if im going to shell out to do something right from the ground up i dont want to get the UCAs and LCAs from global west then the coil overs from somewhere else then the castor rods form here or there and end up paying hundreds more when there are complete kits for sale with parts that are designed to be with each other. Plus im trying to lean away from just getting the stock UCAs but rather go to a coil over. Ill weigh up costs and see where i end up. Cheers guys.

Yeah i hope someone has been around this block before. Weighing up replacing pretty much every component in the front end for brand new and using quality parts and still only having a stock setup kind of steer you in this direction. If its cheap enough to freight it might be a very viable option. Plus u get fully tunable suspension with a no bind shelby drop. Probably lighter too.

100% no light thru. Even a slight slither will allow a fair bit of air thru.