n00bus m@x1mus

I dont mean to keep plugging like a salesman but your right there, it is cheap as chips and works.... Painting engines has always been a real pet hate for me, you put so much time and effort into it trying to prevent it from looking like a dogs breakfast and the first time you turn the key it smokes and sizzles and ends up looking like like it did before you started. Like i said before i dont know if its the epoxy or if its something else but once you get it up into the heat range of a running engine it cures off and bakes on hard and is there to stay, the colours last and remain bright, thats for gloss... ive never tried the matte finishes but i expect it would do the same. Ive never had any success with painting extractors, another pet hate... The only real results ive had is VHT cast alloy 1200F stuff as even though it goes on with a nice shiny gloss finish and the first time you start it it still blows off everywhere the end result doesnt look half bad and has seemed to keep the rust at bay. That and white seem to not look as bad as the rest after 6 months or so.

Yeah well thats what im sort of thinking they did too, make a torquier motor at low/mid rpm and save the engine and give it another gear instead. Well ive also got a AU6 HP head here too that came off the block im doing so if you reckon they are the better head then i need to make a decision on which way im going. Either will end up needing some work to it and the AU head does have the lighter valve train already.

So wait a minute... your saying the 96DT head is shit compared to all else??? hahahaha well im skeptical LOL is there any chance you had the vacuum motors turned down?? Physically looking at them theres almost no way they could be worse off, considering you do similar work to a stocker and it gets considerable gains and now your saying this one went backwards?

Apparently it in the front lower bush and the ball joint pin is on a different angle so the new spindles dont fit the arms and thr arms cant be swapped without the k frame aswell. And sorry poor choice of words before.. au series I rotors are same diametre as ef/el and cant be upgraded for larger discs because of the spindle design.

Different front spindles as they ran the same rotors and calipers as EF/EL, and ive been told because of this you cant upgrade the spindles without upgrading the K frame aswell because the bottom arms dont interchange... so ive been told, never tried it myself.

Ive seen a few series 1 AU XR6s and XR8s with live axles. Series II was IRS from base model, it would have to have LSD if its a tickford car, wouldnt make sense not to. Either way it will fit no probs, its just the wheel offset thats changed, the rest is pretty much the same as EF/EL just the wattslink pivot changed and they have a couple extra holes in the top control arm brackets.

Utes didnt. And he states solid axle so im guessing its a ute rear.

Nice work mate and cheers. I was wondering if there was a way to build a top half for it and just channel it to a pod filter and use the BBM butterflies as the actual throttle control. I know they will need a bit of working here and there but if its way out you would be able to see it on a bench a lot faster then me building it LOL. I dont want to invest time and money into it to find it idles at 3500rpm LOL And to add to your pics there heres some i took of an AU nonVCT head and an EF XR6 94DT head EF chamber = 60cc AU chamber = 65cc Note the extra shrouding around the intake valve. AU intake AU exhaust EF Tickford intake EF Tickford Exhaust And measurements show that the valves are indentical in shape and size, where as the Tickford cam showed 0.055" more lift on the intake valve but same on the exhaust valve

Yes it is longer and you might just squeeze it under there if you have 6" rims but generally are going to have to run Post AU or +38 offset rims. A mate fitted an AU diff under his XH with EL GT rims that are 17x8s but the offsett favoured it... just!!!

Just for my curiousity... if you have a unmodified BBM can you test one port with the long runner hole blanked off and just the short runner open with the butterfly in place? And then shut the butterfly and tell how mu cfm this flows shut? Ideally it would be 0cfm but if its like 30-40cfm then thats probably cool too as long as they are all equal.... Get where im going with this one?? its been an idea ive had for a while but i dont have any test subject to prove it on yet.

Id be interested to see the difference between they inlet port that you have worked to achieve those figures and a stock EF XR6 inlet port as they have been throated out a fair bit at the factory, removing the guide and dressing the turns without it in the way. Also Id also like to see what happens when you open up the lower half of the BBM by cutting the 12 D shaped runners into 6 large oval ports and then building a upper to accomodate as much flow as it has without a lid.

Yeah thats one reason i like the brush on stuff cos you know you can get a good thick coat on it, and any runs you get you just brush them out flat again. It does look a bit grainy when you brushing onto a flat panel like the sump or whatever but after a couple coats it flattens out and looks mint. Plus hard to reach places are a breeze with a 1/2" brush, then go to the 3"er for the rest of it, no need to mask if youve got a steady hand, i didnt mask the welshplugs or even need to seal the block up with the sump/head/manifolds just rotate it on the stand and keep slapping at it till it was red

This is mine after about 12 months or so. I didnt do the head but, so yours did alright Thom?

For value of coverage its a lot better to brush it on and the best part is no need to mask off and u dont cover everything around u in enamel overspray. I sprayed the bay in the ltd with black gloss from a rattle can and it covered well but didnt cure off too well. I reckon the heat definately acts as a catalyst hardener

Saying that but i did the floor space around my fuel cell in matt black and it suffers from that tacky feel and has got water stains and mark in it. But it doesnt get any heat in that area at all so im thinking that it really favours a good baking on. Give it a test run yourself before you commit, its like $15 for a small tin and just slap it around on an old motor in one of your other rigs and see what happens. I can account for gloss red and gloss black but for matt black ive never tried it... dont know if its the matte finish or the lack of heat but it isnt at hard a finish.

Before i did my engine swap i did a test run on the old one just gave it a quick degrease and blast off and slapped a coat of red on some chosen spots and was so amazed at the results. I dont know if its the epoxy in it or what but it hardens off with heat and finishes just like a 2 part job. I can get a rag with thinners or turps or fuel on it and rub like mad and the rag barely gets a tinge of red on it. Like i said its worth looking at, the dude at the paint shop said it would fail but cos i had done plenty of gearboxes and diffs in the stuff i knew it had to work to some extent but i guess the extra heat does it justice and cures it like a catalyst would.

I know u said 2pack but i cant recommend killrust epoxy enamel enough. Its the best ive ever seen as an engine enamel, just degrease it down, gerney off and apply with your favourite paint brush and it flattens out with a high gloss finish. Sticks like shit to a blanket and is pretty much completely resistant to solvents, 12 months on and it still just need a degrease and gerny off to look like it did the day i painted it. I cant say for head but as i only did the block but i did try an exhaust manifold and it burnt it off everywhere except the flange area. Only downfall is the lack of range in colours but they do black in 3 types of finish.

Nice. got any pics of it all? What spindles does it have?

Ive got a set of those Genie 6-3-1 extractors in the shed, they had a good throbbing note to them and got louder the more it revved. I pulled them off to be replaced by the current ones that are pacemaker units with 6-2-1 design with lengthened 2" secondaries to about 1.2m total length from head to collector flange. Makes good torque up top but loses it off the line compared to the genies. Comparing the pipes on that one above they look very very similar to the pacemaker 4480s that are designed for competiton 4.0L as opposed to the standard versions that are 6-2-1 design. I also have a set of those pipes to go on my 4.0L build and take up a lot of room, so much that i think i will have to end up going to a rack and pinion setup just to get them past the steering. If Pacemakers R&D is saying that the tripple secondary design is for top end flow in the 4.0Ls then id believe them to be the same for the xflow.

Talk to motor trimmers some of them stitch up there own custom beanies to fit any setup.

Why not a 3 jaw puller? Even if you had to weld some sort of lip to the rim to get the jaws onto its going to get you a result.

Double check your shank and knurl sizes as ford changed them around a lot, EF studs are the longest from the factory but we are talking only about 5-6mm longer than the Xg ones you would have now and most of that length is in the un threaded nose of the stud so u dont gain any extra thread. Find your shank size and order to that.

Oh yes, dont go into it without rulling out every mechanical fault first or you will be chasing your tials trying to diagnose faults that arent there. get ti running 100% on the factory ECU first then buld the MS on the side, dummy hook it up and when it runs you can do your swap. And tbh i havent quite worked out cold start enrichment yet either LOL its a bitch that one, i just put up with it till it warms up

If you can understand rocket science then you can use MS... Jks, its pretty simple to get the grasp of it, Q pretty much talked me thru it over the phone LOL

Goodo, now you will wonder how you ever tuned without one