n00bus m@x1mus

Id tack in the rear where u can get to it and then little stitches along the front, do 20mm then move to the other end then come back, because u are on a solid crease u will find u will get minimal to zero warping but too much heat will blow it through so keep your pool cool

I prefer to slice it along the internal fold of the swage line, this makes for a very easy repair as you have reference points on both guards and an easy to bog/sand join. Almost cant get it wrong.

Got it in one ▲▲▲▲

Well i just press the button on the dash above the radio, a little wheel doing a burnout comes on the dash cluster and now its ready for burnouts Other than that when its on if you get wheel spin the same symbol flashes up on the dash and its stunts the motor. So you are saying you can turn it off and on again and the results are the same either way?

I always assumed that TC was controlled by the ABS system applying brake pressure to the wheel that is slipping and thus transferring power to the one with traction... makes sense to do it that way, but that was until i owned this thing. Its definitely a heart stopper when you give it the tromp to punch thru a gap and it jumps out into the middle of the intersection like a slingshot only to stumble and fall on its arse. You can turn it on and off, but each time you turn the IGN off it resets back to default of ON. I wish there was a way to turn it off by default, its definitely causes more grief than it prevents.

I assume so...

As far as i know that is standard behaviour for TC on AU ghias... thats what mine does. If it detects wheel slip it cuts ignition or injector pulses or something that makes it die in the arse, it cant physically lift your foot off the peddle so it has to limit engine output somehow. Thats why the BA onward has an E-throttle, ECu just shuts down the throttle to govern engine output. I hate the thing, if there was a way to set it to off by default i would do it. So many times you needs to jump out of an intersection or whatever and the car nearly stalls almost creating an accident. Id so much rather some wheel spin then a Tbone.

Yep its a regrind, that means the base circle will be smaller by however much the extra lift over stock they ground into that cam... so you will need to shim the lash adjusters by the equivalent amount. I have a very similar cam, couldnt find specs on it anywhere either but measuring it it has 0.035" more lift in the intake than the EF XR6 cam and 0.010" more lift in the exhaust, cant measure duration or lobe sep but.

While your doing homework on it, look into adopting an EB or ED manual cluster into it, ive never looked into it but i was talking to someone and they say the Eb/D cluster fits straight into an XG, so using the XG or even XH fascia cover one could effectively fit a great range of needle sweep clusters into an XF... providing you get the wiring sorted out, the mounting will be the easy part.

Yes... the transducer is different from XD/E and XF onwards, you will need an early one. XD and XE S Pack clusters are the same except the fuel guage has a low warning bulb on it

Yeah thats my handy work lol, works still to this day, but in the ute now, with the complete XE dash around it so i put it into a spare housing. It wasnt hard at all to do, your right about the dust factor steve, but all it needed was a quick blast with the air gun from under the fuse cover and it was good as gold again. Never had any trouble with the needles, i suspect that its a bit of a wives tale that one. The cluster illumination is about the only drama, as you need to shave it off to get it to fit. I broke mine down and fitted a neat strip of LEDs between the face plate and the gauge faces so it is sort of backlit like the XFs ones are, IE not shining onto the face of the cluster but shines up thru the gap around each gauge. Looks a tonne better and so much brighter.

Tickford fitted alloy shafts to everything they built running 3.45 gears and 5,500rpm redlines, and then removed the factory set 180kph speed limiter in their tunes. Cant see them being an issue, especially if you are going to compare stock steel for stock alloy at 200kph with 600hp+ under the hood. Then again whoever builds something like that and runs a stock tailshaft is cutting corners.

Ive got an EB wagon shaft in mine, aluminum and no rubber dampener to be seen.

Ive worked out a way to adapt the XG handbrake lever and twin cables onto the EF hand brake mech at the wheel, i havent welded it all up and operated it yet but i think it will be a winner. As i cut all the ugly hand rake cables and mounts off my diff i was intending on welding them back onto the front face so they would be hidden from the back view but it was getting to complicated with the swaybar mounts and also shock positions so i worked out another way. Ill grab pics for you soon mate, they will be in my build thread soon.

Steve... im fitting an ef diff into my ute at the momment and it will be very similar if not the same as your xd if u want to compare notes. Ill be running the ef rotors, calipers and handbrake.

Hey does anyone know if the swaybar mounts on the diff of an xd sedan are in the same place as every other watts lunk diff housing afterwards? Reason is im fitting an EF diff into an XG and thr swaybar is no go with the shocks... so i can either get a bar out of something with the same shock setup as this or fit the EF bar and modify the shock layout.

So who can say what swaybar or shock setup an E series wagon runs? Ive been looking at AU utes and they have a different shock setup which would help, an upright shock from leaf perch to the chassis rail but i dont know if i want to fit them that way just yet.

Cheers mate, ive got 695 between mounts on this diff unfortunately i think im stuck with this swaybar. And chaise i would have thought the E series wags had different shock setup to the xseries ute. But now u got me curious

Id imagine so too, How he gets it there is another question LOL long burr and come in thru the intake port?

Interesting work on that intake, Do you find that knife edge up the back of the valve guide steadys it much? And im guessing its aiming 180 degs away from the direction of the runner? Act like a hydrofoil as such?

Top bit of info there David... Ill have to pull the lid off mine now and see whats under there

Wasnt the xg box like this as standard?

Sheesh... any rust in those C pillars and she would have torn that boot clean off the back lol

Way too much comp for 95 ron fuel, its preigniting and running so hot that its running without ignition once shut off. You will need to run 98 with an octane booster and possibly even drop the timing right out of it. Are you positive the timing marks on the balancer are correct?

Correct, heres a couple shots demonstrating the line of evolution from XF to BA BA na on the left, EF in the middle, and XF on the right. Vice versa here, notice the change in piston dish Xflow right up to EL share the same rod, AU onwards got longer.