n00bus m@x1mus

Is the EF XR6 cam worth running or should i just go for an aftermarket grind straight up?

Righto mate i might try to grab the whole intake so i got a spare bbm to play with. I wont be needing the reg but as i got a rising rate aeromotive unit doing the job now but thanks anyway for the tip.

Yeah well these are pacemaker competition units, some say they are too big for street use as they run 1 5/8" primaries and 2" tripple secondaries... they are big pipes but if u reckon that most will fit xg then i might have a hope. Yeah not set on which manifold atm, i have the bbm that is on the AU atm and also a log from an XH but i like the idea of using the bbm lower and fabbing up my own top half first to suit n/a and then later as a blower mount.

Ive got a megasquirt running a xflow in there atm so i was going to just transfer it all over onto the 4.0L... Just swapped my pipes for a set of PH4495 pipes to suit AU so winning there, just hope it all clears the steering or im stuffed lol

Ive got a twin screw from a 4.6L SVT mustang set asside with my name on it.. it will need some custom manifold work and maybe even some hood clearance to get it in there and with the right drive pulleys it will handle the 4.0l in its sleep and run a lot cooler than any centrifugal or turbo setup. Will probably end up with a water cooled manifold instead of routing it back out again for a front mount. But that is really at the end of the build, im not going to be attempting any of that for a good while.

Subscribed...... Just about to commence an AU 4.0L conversion and starting to get some parts together. So far ive got an AU1 motor complete running out of my ex daily and i just scored an EF Tickford head for the princely sum of 100 coin complete with everything.... cam, valves, rockers, cover the lot. I also have access to the rest of the EF XR6 motor so is there anything else i should grab before is slips by??? Got an AU T5 bell waiting to be picked up aswell... dont have a decent T5, only the XF one thats in the ute now but im hoping with some tender care it should hold for at least a while until i can build a better box. Aslo picked up a set of PH4495 pipes to suit a barra that i was going to modify the bolt flange to fit the SOHC head... they are pretty damn close except for the top row of bolts so its either cut the whole flange off and tig another back on or try to manipulate this one. Or sell the damn thing and spend the coin on an AU set yet. Plans are the eventually supercharge it so while i might go with the EF head with more comp initially i might keep hold of the AU head and do that one for less comp around the 9.0:1 max mark to get some room for boost.

Wet paper works just as well too, saves cleaning the grease up

Any reason why the EF/L head flows better than an AU?? You would assume it the other way around... is it chamber shape or port?

You could try that yes.. have a simple push button with an open circuit when pushed, like a highbeam dip switch, ans hold that in for the first couple cranks then drop it out on the third and it will fire while the engine is at speed. Work just like a decompression lever on a bike.

Get youself a cheap ir temp gun from supercheap will help u find your problem or a simple mech temp guage.

Have you proved its not a fault with the cluster first?

Make sure your starter itself is earthing to the block or better yet take that earth you got going to your block now and slip it under one of the starter bolts so u got a direct line. Mine is 10:1 comp, AU starter, 530cca, locked at 36degs and it starts no probs and my battery is 4m from the starter motor. How many cranks does it do before it fires? That might be your problem, get your tune right and it will start on the first stroke.

Thats not correct with our gear boxs but. The factory driven gear for an xr6 with 3.45s is a black 23 tooth gear. 3.27s were a purple 21 and green 19 was for 2.77s.

Choice ill check them out. Im pretty sure these would be corty gears but if im not going to find a bw box in a corty then i guess im searching for anything that would adapt. Just read that AUs had 3.7s?? What models would that be? XRs or maybe the TE50s? Im also going to fit an ultralite dash some time soon so if im stuck could i possibly just run the 3.45 gear ive got here and them tune the speedo to suit?

Fair enough... what about commodores? Or even pintaras, where did these gears come from?

They didnt have a bw auto? Or singlerails with the 6 cyls? As long as top was 1:1 it should work out fine

Bumping this cause i still need to know lol

No its an event indicator, so it will blink once for every event or fire... obviously while the engine is running this will appear to stay on continuously and go out when stopped. Try to imagine the tfi distributor is just a fancy technological device that does the same thing as ur humble points dizzy does. You got power (and in this case an earth aswell) going into the dizzy and a trigger wire coming back out to make the coil fire. that's what it is designed to do... its just that there is 2 extra wires in there so the ecu can understand what's going on too. Remove the extra 2 wires and we are back to basics again.

No your thinking backwards. The tfi modules triggers the coil via the pink/blue to the neg side of coil. Instead it will now trigger the cdi. The tfi does not need instruction from the ecu to trigger... it does this automatically from the pip signal it gets from the hall sensor. The ecu just adds advance to that signal... remove the ecu and it will run standalone.

White wire to pink/blue as explained in my pm... cut the brown and green/yellow wires out and insulate them from each other and everything else.

The cog for 3.45s is a black 23 tooth gear... but if you have upped you wheel dia and gone to a diff cog to correct you may need to do the same here, so one up or down depending on which way you went previously. On another note does anyone know which cog I would need for 3.7s.. did they come in cortys?

I found that doing the steps as glen described but dont bother with the masking and then using a plastic scraper of some sorts with a firm edge can usually just flake the paint off the polish section with ease... providing 2 things, the polished surface is polished smooth enough to prevent the paint bonding to it and thats the area to be scraped off is flat so you can get your tool onto it properly. Then just clear over the lot as desired. Thats how i do alloy rocker covers for instance and it works easily... infact do a good job with the polishing and i rarely have to apply a clear coat afterwards.

I suppose u could use just the booster and leave the zj master cylinder in place if that's what your concerned about... the bigger booster.

Use a block of wood on the end grain and knock it in till you can get a good bite with the bolt then rattle it home.

No probs, like I said I heard gas wants more timing so I guess you could try for more then 28 and see what happens... if it pings bring it back till it stops.