n00bus m@x1mus

It will be an AU series one forte non ABS sendor. AUII onwards had ABS as standard and did not run thr transducer but got the wheel speed from the PCM

OK so ive been round this block before but i never got any solid resolve but i need to align the cam angle sensor up to the crank and the ford manual says i need a synchronizer alignment tool to do the job but the only way i can get a hold of one is to buy a new sensor with the tool attached on ebay . http://i.ebayimg.com/11/!BivGHUQBGk~$%28KGrHqQOKk!Esm4--qZ5BLQgT8QykQ~~_12.JPG The tool is essentially a plastic cap that locks the internals of the sensor in place so it all lines up when you clamp it down... but what i propose is, if anyone out there can help??? Please can you set your crank to TDC1 and remove the coil packs then the pickup from the top of the sensor and take a picture for me of where the pickup tooth is in relation to the sensors housing.... a simple down the throat shot will be great thanks if anyone out there can help it would be greatly appreciated.

Yeah i am too haha. I might try it there and see what happens. My plug ends have a plastic clip that houses the boots so it clicks into the socket. Im hoping i can get them off when i do the new leads without breaking them.

Yeah i am too haha. I might try it there and see what happens. My plug ends have a plastic clip that houses the boots so it clicks into the socket. Im hoping i can get them off when i do the new leads without breaking them.

Also i noticed your plug ends dont have the fancy clips that mine do for the coil pack sockets... do you have the stock motorcraft ones?

Hey cheers mate... does it run well and have decent economy in that posi? Cause thats showing quite different to what i would have expected LOL I would have thought it would be dead centre of that key way for the magnet looking at the tool layout. I guess all i can do is try that point and see if the scan tool says yes on the CPS?? maybe it needs a good 90 degs or so to get ready for that first cycle. Thanks mate, ill owe you one

Just checked then its spot on the mark. It went on the scan tool this arv and it was showing faults with the cam angle sensor and the primary/secondary winding on a coil pack.. ive got my suspicions as to which one it would be. And it showed the ego is lazy on the 2nd bank??? Which he says is the passanger side, the one that sits off set to the rear?? Is that right? Should replace both but i guess to be fair. It reads but is slow to respond. So if i can work out this cam angle then hopefully that solves that one or else it is probably rooted and needs a new one of them too

Just checked then its spot on the mark. It went on the scan tool this arv and it was showing faults with the cam angle sensor and the primary/secondary winding on a coil pack.. ive got my suspicions as to which one it would be. And it showed the ego is lazy on the 2nd bank??? Which he says is the passanger side, the one that sits off set to the rear?? Is that right? Should replace both but i guess to be fair. It reads but is slow to respond. So if i can work out this cam angle then hopefully that solves that one or else it is probably rooted and needs a new one of them too

This looks to be more my cup of tea... it shows an alignment with a single tooth pointing straight at the centre of the mag pickup, not the leading or trailing edge but dead centre. Yes please mate.... your a champion of a man :hy:

Yep if u look at the first pic i put up that was exactly what i was measuring. Swapped arms from one to the other and the hole in the top bracket is the same distance from anywhere on the diff housing. I cant say if its the same in the body but.

Tried that last time i was playing with this... they had never heard of it lol. I had to point it out in the manual before they believe what i was saying wasnt a joke.

Well i was told by someone it need to trip the pickup at 30deg btdc so i set the lead edge of the tooth up on the sensor at 30degs and it got no better. While it runs well enough economy is poor and it lacks guts... almost like the ignition timing is out or has little advance. So im hoping that i can resolve this. Another person told me that it only checks for signal during cranking so it knows when to fire number one on the comp stroke and once started it can be unplugged and wont affect it at all. If that was the case why not have a tooth that is 180 degs wide like the EF 6? This one is around 5 degs wide at the most.

In addition to the watts link pivot pin dropping with the AUs they also shortened the top arms by around 30mm aswell, my guess is to increase that roll forward rate as the diff goes up into the body. Also note the tidy box section used and both bushes are the same part front and back.

Some homework... it appears as though this tool simply makes sure that the tooth can only be on one side of the sensor when installed???? like it could be 180 degrees in variance but as long as its on that side its cool??? http://www.etoolpros.com/automotive-tools/OTC-303-562.html

Its quite obvious when u see them, the pin is below the diff filler plug instead of in line A terrible picture to describe it i know but if you look closely you can make out the difference. Plus notice the hand brake cable route on the face of the cover also.

Yeah that was it mate.. i thought the earthed would be switched thru the doors but not so... if ford did it that way they would only need 1 pos to run either, reading lamp pos switched on light and door adjar earth switched at door. And then they couldbhavevpowered both with an internal bridge instead of running 2 pos wires.... But that would be too simple then hey.

Just thought that one thru again... the reading lamps would have been fed from the ACC circuit where as the courtesy light would have been wired direct to pos on one side and the neg side (blade?) is looped thru the door switches.

From memory you will need to jump a wire from the pos to the other side pos to operate the reading lamps. The GL wires are only a wire for the pos and neg earthed to the roof braceing by the mounting screws, the lanes had dual pos wires... dunno why they didnt just do it internally LOL. The pos wire will go into a plastic bush in the backing plate insualted from the body.

Yeah 2.77 ratio in 0578 housing with 28 spline centre

Ive seen 4 Pin centres with 25 spline axes and 2 Pin LSDs with 28 spline axles too. Also the odd pursuit vehicle with 0578 housings and 0575 carriers with a special pinion bearings to adapt one to the other... I wish i could find that part number on that bearing as it saves shimming

All borg warner hemispheres will fit any series housings with the exception of the hemi that is coupled to the 2.77 crown and pinion.. that only suits that gear. You need to be sure of ur spline count also and dont mix match bearings and cases.

Im sure there is a reason they went to a lesser ratio for the au head and it wont be to detune it in any way. I bet they dropped ratio and raised cam lobe profile and achieved the same lift with less valvetrain load on the timing chain and harmonics in the head. One question i had spring to mind the other day... i wonder if it would be possible to run a ba crank in the au block and then fit the crank driven oil pump inside the timing chain cover?

If your still chasing this setup soon micky i will be removing all the crossy gear and going a SOHC... so if you want a kit to go EFI on a crossy with a EECV ECU and a log manifold i have an XH loom and we could get something happening.

The Au bottom end is very similar to the BA then as they have the same cross bolt mains setup, girdle and windage tray... Except the tray is part of the girdle and the girdle isnt cut out for the oil pump because is crank driven. And here is a shot of the 3 rods lined up side by side... BA - ED - XF Sorry for the thread hijack mate, just thought it was of interest while on this topic.. One thing that had me confused is why they didnt adopt the cross bolt mains to the front 2 that weren't held by the girdle because of the pump cutout... then i noticed they followed suit with the DOHC aswell :???:

Yeah i was thinking so too.. the beauty of the ohc is 30 min cam swaps with a simple 3/8th socket set