xSMOKEx

pretty sure xw came out with he 2 series housing (bw75 off memorie) so you can only fit up to 2.97's ratio in the housing if you try put 3.08 gears in the crown wheel with hit the back case, if you can find a 3 series borgy witch is a BW78 this will fit 3.23's and above ratio centers they are allot easier to come by i was even running a set of 4.11's out of a pintara < (btw cheapest set of 4.11's you will ever find ) if you do change the ratio's just make sure you set the clearances correctly or it will blow with in 2 to 3 months i have also used 3.89's out of skyline's btw these are better then the pintara center as they are a 28 spline 4 pinion center also the skyline r31's have 2 ratio's manual is a 3.70 auto is 3.89's ford XD to AU also use 28 spline 4 pinion centers LSD Rebuild be looking at around $400 to $500 for , LSD hemisphere machining , shimming and labour maybe a lil extra if you also needed bearings < only generally need this if the center is flogged out. not sure what would bolt straight into a xw mate , XD might be close being its also a leaf spring rear end axle length may also be different as well as the mount points

dont bother with 9 inch unless your planing on running sub 12 quarter miles with fat grippy slicks. or you are the A Current Affair Burn Out King!. ive been running the stock lsd's for years , even go to archer field burn out comps with them , they do last just dont expect frying and dropping a clutch on a set of 255's will have it last more then 6 months. diff in my old nc fairlane copped a really hard flogging good old borgy with 3.55 gears 16 months of peak reving and neutral to 1st bangs only killed the diff due to slaping a gutter and smashing the bottom of the housing and oil draine dout then i drove it for like 2 months with 0 oil lol corty gets pretty much same treatment guts flogged out of it still useing a 28 spline borgy with a mini spool over 5 years old this diff and no troubles besides a bit of play back and forth from the centre its self to the pinnion gear. all i do is keep them clean and fresh oil and they last , if it blows up at the end of the day ... 0 shits given unless i smash the housing , i just keep buying 2nd hand centres and axles pick them up pretty cheap , does not happen often enough for me to warrant the cost of buying a 9 inch. if you start blowing them every 2 months ..... there is deff's something wrong with the way your driving . also 9 inch diff's are way over rated .....unbreakable i think not ..... blown my fair share of them. always remember to have your car rolling forwards slightly and drivetrain preloaded before droping a set , its the initial shock to the drive train system that starts breaking shit < took me a few years to work this out lol broken engine mounts every week , gear box's every month , diffs every other month , glad ACA never gave a crap about hoons when i was 17 18 i would of been on that every week lol

i run a delkor 620 cca calcium , got mine 2nd hand off this guy who refurbish's batteries and gives a 12 month warranty paid 55 bucks , ill see if i can find you his number he just moved to out ipswich way . only drama i had it was bit low on charge from sitting in his self , hooked up a good charger to it and its 100% perfect. was running a 520cca in boot on 9.3 comp before this , would whind over pretty slow but still fast enough to start . i would suggest no less then 600cca though

yep you are correct AU's came out with the GT40p heads they also had the better intake manifold from the fox body Ho Mustangs , ford explorers also came out with them. it is where i got my set from for my fairlane

hey guys just discovered this morning my alternator has finally crapped it self , i had a quick browse through existing threads and couldn't find the answers i was really looking for. im curious as to what would be the best bang for the buck alternator i could get my hands on and fit with out to much mucking around , looking for a higher amps as my battery has been relocated to the boot , pretty sure the alternator i have atm was only 55amp's and that was having troubles just keeping the battery charged with just head lights on and holley red fuel pump running , though this could of been from the alternator being also crapped out . i dont have $200+ to throw at a new unit atm so was thinking if theres an alternator from a x series that would bolt straight in with higher amps could go get one 2nd hand and put it in for the time being . btw car is a 79 te cortina with XE 250 crossflow conversion from 81 might even be a XD Edit = maybe one of you guys in brissy have one laying around and could help a brotha out ? got cash

i had same thoughts mate and not worth it on a 4.1 , and also would run to hot the SC would crap it self t , you would need to spin it up far to high to see good gains only to be diminished by how hot the charge gets and the SC its self would get way to hot. you would be running way past the SC14's efficiency , maybe if you managed to find a way to fit 2x of them under the hood you could get them to work , but then that just defeats the purpose of it being a cheap boost , they just dont output enough CFM sadly , i think it was Dave ( Pro250) i had a chat to about this a few years ago .there is just no way to make it cost effective and reliable and working efficiently . wait for pro250 to post , that guy knows his stuff and would give 100% correct info Edit = also u need to get your Carby Boost modified , or buy one thats for boost applications , you will crush your floats otherwise , you will also need riseing rate fuel regulator and a ignition system to retard the timing back as boost comes on .

yeah i have done this before my self , made me so mad to , just use a shorter bolt with a washer for now , do a proper fix later one day when you got the head off , bad idea to try and drill it whilst its still in the car, it wont hurt it running a shorter bolt .

yeah just change the pulley and your laughing and a tune ,now we know the real reason he did not buy the cortina he is just infiltrating our rivals to see what they got under there hoods lmao your just missing 1 thing for 60 extra rwkw's though ..... where is the god dam chev badge brotha ? they will know your not a legit holden fan with out it lol looks alright mate , daily is a daily btw if i see you driving this around brisbane dont expect a wave , be a big bird out the window with a smile HAHA

the corty wagons look as good as the sedans even in stock form , not many cars can pull that off . Ants i dont know if you have tried to get some before in a sedan but its almost darn near impossible once those non reclining race seats go in . i could just imagine how many excellent activities i could do with a cortina wagon!

as gerg said they should drop another 10mm after they settle can take up to 1 month . btw awesome home made spring compressor id sooner trust that then those ones from super cheap auto , had a scary moment with them before lol

if you have to drill and add in the child seat bolt , i think you have to get it engineer certified , not 100% on this, what i have been told if there is no pre existing child seat bolt this needs to be done ? , some one else might be able to clear this up , would be good to know .

oh mate nice wagon , mate had a white one with a worked 6 and man they look tuff on their guts . not sure what issues wagons have , but i know with my sedan check these spots as i got a few surprise's roof gutter , wheel arch's all 4 , boot , under front windscreen where the grille is for the wipers . bonnet mounts , inside the doors where the rubber seal's seat. check the sill's and chassis rails , < i had to cut a chunk of my rail out on driver side and replate it and cut and shut it ,was not really terrible rust little bit worse then surface rust but would have got bad and being a chassie rail this was best option for the future ( had it inspected after by engineer) , also the driver side sill where is links to rear wheel arch give that a good knocking rust hides in there well . as said above they range from 1000 to 5000 , i paid 1700 for my sedan and this wagon appears to be in a bit better shape then mine was but in saying that i did pay to much for mine just cause it had a fresh worked motor in it. 1200 is not a bad price if there not much more wrong with it , id say get him down to 900 to 1000 and u got a pretty good deal , 1200 is still reasonable though , i would of thrown 1100 cash at him by now lol

can confirm i have king ssl's in my cortina , much better ride and are defiantly stiffer then stock , really notice it in a cortina coming from stock springs after replacing the 2l motor with the 250xflow also have had a set in a xe and a xf with same results , set i had in the xe were standard height kings and were still stiffer then the stock springs (got them as a freebie ) from a car i was striping . the xf had ssl kings but also had koni adjustable shocks , scored from a wrecked car was a vast improvement even with them adjusted on softest settings . kings are far better then stock . i have even chopped standard springs to the ride height of king ssl's , trust me if you do that you will really know the difference between stock and kings lmao. P.s dont chop ya springs i was young and stupid and had no understanding of how springs actually worked .

i was just showing as a example as what can be done as an idea , would solve the AC and Power steer issue witch is what the OP is asking , that is the point

got my rims back test fit went perfect , took it back to him and just got them back yesterday all wielded up. wish i could of kept some of the dish but they still look good , honestly think i got them perfect 225's now have plenty of clearance i think 245's would only just be scrubbing , very happy with the work he has done , highly recommend if your in brisbane an need wheel work done give bruce a call at Race engineering in Rocklea. he does all sorts of wheel mods , he also does axle's but not housings . http://www.raceengineering.com.au/ haven't had a chance to get the tires thrown on today but got them put on for test fit then had to remove to have them wielded up . ill post more pic's of how they sit under the rear once tires get put on friday , looking at putting Dunlop Direzza z2 star spec's tires on all round , been doing a bit of reading seems these are the way to go for a street/strip tire , was looking at going semi slicks but these seem to performs good as them and dont wear out to fast , not sure what size they have in 14 inch rims though. other suggestions appreciated , wanting tread that's street able but really grippy and wont wear out with in a week . an has great performance

hey guys im having my rear wheels machined to change the offset by 30mm , they going to cut the alloy centre out of the steel rim barrol and re-wield it to correct offset. as they dont fit under my guards the problem im having is i forgot to measure the back side of the Tyre to the wheel well before i took the tyres off the rims i will be running 225's and im worried when the suspension raise's up will it wont clear the back wall and scrub? has any one else ran 8 inch wide rims with 225's under there tf/te ? and know what offset clears everything ?

ok i just droped them off to him , getting centre moved 35mm and he going to tack 1 up for me to test fit thanks for your help guys , will post pic's when there done

ok sweet i was right when doing it appreciate the help

thanks guys appreciate it to dark to measure up atm but im guessing when you say 5.5 inch your meaning from the centre face of the rim to back of the rim needs to be with in 5.5 inch's so tyre would not hit the wheel well back wall , witch makes sense to me at first i read it has 5.5 inchs away from the back wall and i was like that cannot be right no way it would travel that far when it lifts on a angle. makes much more sense when i looked at it from above mentioned way . its exactly 100mm from back centre rim hub plate to outer rim rear, , so if i + offset by 30 mm would be 130 mm leaving 9mm of free space so i would at least have 9mm of dish ? or would i be beter measure straight out 139mm (5.5) inch's , straight in from teh back side of the rim and get them to set the offset there ? so being as the rim is 8 inch wide would be 200mm wide , so centre would be 100 = 0 offset witch i have now correct ?, so moving it 5.5 inch's would make it +39 offset ? , i think i have got this shit now worked out lol will seem confusing for you guys as im working this out as i type lol now my question is how much offset can i get away with to keep a some of the dish ?. whats they charge to have axles shortened and housing ? i got quoted near $550 for a 9 inch a few years ago , keeping the dish would be nice but going 9 inch 5 stud 31 spline, eventually so if its not close to $350 i did not see the point of spending $500. got quoted $175 a rim for changes so $350 is not to bad as would cost me that to get another set of rims to suit and i was thinking when i go to resell them i should at least get $400 for the set due to haven't seen any other rims like this in 4 stud corty pattern , good rims are hard to come by unless your spending 800+ and want the old school drag look. closets to these i have seen is flat faced centrelines with 0 dish.

they do Vn's with them this might give you some idea's even though they are set up different http://postimg.org/image/k39c2eg8r/

wont hurt your engine what so ever , if your car is pre 1986 you dont have to have one , keep in mind though if you have engine swapped , engine that came out from a car newer then 1986 then yes you need to run a catalytic converter , so as example , 1981 cortina like my own you dont need to have one , but XF you would, might get away with not having one on the early built xf's though if they ran on leaded fuel . but i would still have one on a early XF to be safe from defects , just buy a hi flow cat better safe then sorry. if you hollow out the standard cat it is a defect and they will fine you , also will make your car allot louder as said above it acts a expansion chamber like on a 2 stroke , and if your running a mean enough motor with a big enough carb running rich and you pump the throttle ( EG. like in a burn out letting on and off the gas it will fill up with fuel and A. cause a back fire , B cause a backfire and blow a hole in your muffler. Lets say hypothetically you do gut it , cut the top side out that's against the floor , remove all the honeycomb's inside , get some pipe wield it in so it runs straight through , wield the top side back on and have the wielded side facing your floor so you cant see its been removed , this will stop fuel sitting in the cat and filling it up. honestly though just buy a high Flow cat mate , 100% legal and half the work . been there and done it

hey guys , so this is where everyone disapered to time to start a new build thread i guess... ill start off with spec's , designs , and plans car: 81 Te Cortina Engine : 4.1 crossflow Mod's : lightened crank ACL Pro Lite pistons 50 thou oversize arp rods stage 3 heat seeker cam , unsure of specs as heatseeker and watson cams do not exist anymore and have lost my cam specs card anti pump up lifters 465 holley 4 bbl redline torque manifold 9.3 to 1 compression shaved head by 30 thou double valve springs twin row timing chain holley blue fuel pump and regulator motor has done around 45 000 since build. Rocker cover not bolted down and extractors dummy fitted in pic now i got my self a twin set of GT2856r turbo's , that are set up for blow through carby that came off a XF, i couldnt resist the urge to buy them as i paid $500 for the whole set up witch included 2 manifolds 2x turbo's , Oil and Water lines , Custom Turbo Winged Sump , all Pipe work. looked at my engine bay and thought these will fit easy , just have to mod my sump as corty need bulge at back not front. and get MSD ignition system , bigger fuel pump , rising rate fuel reg. i have hit a problem though , im running a v8 brake booster and the rear turbo is hitting it , and there is not enough room for the exhaust dump pipe off the rear of the turbo . so im after your guy's thoughts , i will be running a front mount cooler so that top pipe work wont be getting used apparently was running 10 psi with no cooler on previous car with stock internals and light head work with no decomp plate. so my aim will be to run 10 psi with a front mount inter-cooler , have not decided if im going to convert to EFI or just do a Holley Boost Carby set up as the EFI set up might be more expensive was looking at running a microtech ECU and there about 1000 bucks on there own with out a plenum and what not and would also need to install a EFI fuel pump , where as can get a MSD full set for it for like $600 , fuel pump for 200 , carb set up for about 500. but back to the matter at hand , this turbo set up ive had sitting for around 2 years as i lost my job and have just regained funds to finish it. you may have seen it on xfalcon if your a old member im chasing some thoughts and idea's to fix this manifold and turbo issue , so far i have came up with these 2 design's but still not sure how it would affect flow rate and if it would grant me the room . i would get 2 of these manifolds made up of witch ever i decide so they are equal lengths , the front turbo really has no problems exact when i move the rear turbo towards it wont be enough space to get rear dump pipe on , so what ever i move the rear turbo forwards by i would need to do the same to the front turbo. 2nd design feel free to add your thoughts and Idea's , chuck me some designs , just feels atm ive hit a brick wall with the project , wanting to get this all done and dusted with in the next 6 months

if i get time tomorrow ill take pic's of the dump pipe's and the turbo manifolds , i think XPTcrossy is on the right track and your way would work also Wagoon with the placement , move front turbo as well so the turbo sits at number cylinder 1 , rear turbo set it forward around number cylinder 4 and raise it slightly or lower it would have to check the measurements ,need to keep in mind there are being run off 1 single actuator linked to 2nd turbo by a bar that is adjustable to open the wastegate. worst case scenario im thinking is the rear turbo might have to go up higher and i cut a hole in the bonnet and mold a kind of scoop out of fiberglass , bonnet has about 7 rust hole's anyways witch i just cut out and fiber glassed and filled , if it ended up being this way it is not all bad as id do it for the front as well and have a cold air intake through the bonnet . i can also see where wagoon and broken wheel was coming from with the costs and the work needed and i would completely agree with them if i was building a high horsepower monster that needed a smick finish seriously i think i can do this with $3500 might even have change if i shop around an take my time. there are places i can save money where it will not harm like 2nd hand ECU i have been looking at the Haltech Sprint 500 series just have to make sure i get high resistance injectors. , http://www.haltech.com/product/platinum-sprint-series/platinum-sprint-500/ run xf/xe intake / EB intake , undecided , and port size match to my head with a bigger 65mm throttle body from a Ea or EF . inter-cooler would be like this , but more in a Bar Shape then what this one is i think to uterlize the area better placed below front bumper bar , and run the pipe work in through the bar underneath like this > warning heres comes my shit MS paint Skills again. http://postimg.org/image/nreiy0smz/ and enlarge the holes with a drill hole cutting pit and run the pipework up underneath into the engine bay. ^ this is not set in stone as there are many ways i could do the cooler the problem with this design is i have to run allot of pipe back to the intake plenum back up to top of the motor , probably make it work useing a universal intake pipe kit to some extant , just might cause allot of boost lag , a water to air cooler might be another option also but then i need to worry about heat soak if its in the engine bay. thing is it does not have to look pretty , just has to be done right enough to pass for a engineer and for it to function and not pre det , gt2856's are water and oil cooled , but they are small turbo's. i will also take pic's of that head i got with the turbo's i had another look today and cant see any marking suggesting whether there c1 or c2 c2a might just have to look harder , but the valves do look huge in it , hardly any space between the intake and exhaust valves and they come right out 1mm off hitting the chamfer of the cylinder chamber , ill leave it at this tonight im dead tired been sanding and prepping all day , and tomorrow hopefully i get time to take these pictures for you guys , if not ill be back monday with pic's and some more idea's possibley here is a vid of what it sound's like N/A atm from a few months ago , and how quick it rev's up ,idling a bit high , just got back from the servo , Fuck Fuel economy lmao

pretty much just a week end driver , bit of drag for fun nothing serious , powercruise if things plan out , im running a single rail atm and planing to stick with it and not go auto , i do have 2 t5's sitting in the shed reco'd but going to be selling them , eventually was thinking of dropping a built top loader behind it or a celica 5 speed , im also running 3.23 diff gears 28 spline borgwarner with minispool > shhhh not so legal,previous owner, been looking around for 3.55's or 3.77's gear for lsd. plans are to go 9 inch with 4 link set up 5 stud and upgrade the front with 5 stud and big brake kit. Broken Wheel 8k easy for NA Build thats for sure and you wouldn't get any spare change from that , thats why im wanting the turbo route N/a will always be the most expensive way , i seriously think $3500 would cover this turbo build engine wise , add another 1500 to 2k for a 9 inch Diff , gearbox i think i would get away with a single rail for awile but long term it would blow. probs get a few months out of it as its only a week end car not a daily , 205 rwkw really run 12's in a xf ??? i mean 230awkw in a subaru wrx only runs 13's ? would of thought the wrx would have a quicker time but i guess 250's would have a heap more torque. im not building a monster just something i can drive on a week end and have a bit of fun in . heard you can just bolt turbo's onto stock 250's and run something like 17 psi dont know what power figures are though. after reading everything you guys have said im kind of now on the fence as to what i should do , im really now kind of thinking of throwing the turbo's on a back burner again as im really appreciating your guys input , im more now leaning towards getting everything else setup first EG like a solid drive Line , im not taking any of your comments negative in anyway as your pointing things out that i have neglected to think about , and your information has been very help full and are saving me troubles in the long run. and yes 500 for dyno is cheap and yes i do have a mate to do the dynoing , step brother lucky enough my mother married the right guy only charged me 350 last time for a v8 ZJ fairlane , that was a whole other build ,sold it due to wanting a change , kinda wish i never dumped money in it as it was a car that never really had my heart , just had a 2500 tonne lard ass dumping money into a car i just wanted cause it had a mid worked 351 cause i was young and dumb and thought money grew on tree's and was never the car i really wanted to keep and thought you could make anything fast and be the cool kid with a v8 on his p's smashing commodores lol bit of back story was first ever cortina i had ever seen and fell in love with it immediately and had to have it , best mate bought it when i was 17 tried for years to buy it from him and he wouldn't sell it , he then bought a new car and this car just sat in his front yard for 5 years uncovered and not touched , kept throwing offers at him for it wouldn't budge , at 26 i finally owned it ,cash and a kx60 dirt bike his way , paid to much to be honest, but the personal value of the car to me is worth every cent , so many memories and great times in it , 1st car i have ever actually worked my ass off for and sacrificed food and going out , every other car i have owned and had to do this much work on just to get it back to road worthy state i have just said fuck it and sold it , i have finally got the car im going to keep , never thought id ever say this about any car but its a car i actually enjoy working on. my mates all have supra's and mx5's and xr6t's and give me so much shit and laugh and joke how there cars make more power and have better everything and are clean and smick , but at the end of the day i have the car i want , a car that has personality and not every tom dick an harry has one , as im sure you guys understand . as another interesting topic with this car it is clearly a TE , but on the VIn plates its says its a 1981 TF , clearly it is not a TF , TF doors wont fit and the shape is not TF , i have also removed the radiator and checked the support for chassis, vin's match and their 100% correct , even the color code is correct , factory it was green as u can see in pics of engine bay , i haven't been able to find much more out about it , i have heard though there were a few TE's Vin'd as TF's on the change over but i have also heard there was supposedly a few rare Te's and were marked as TF's that got extra stuff ? , never seen any proof of this just word of mouth, ill post some pic's up has had allot of work done already including the 6cyl conversion also has full steel custom body kit ,side skirts , custom front guards , custom front bar and xf rear bar and tail lights , race seats,battery in boot, all mod plated and engineered , also it is getting resprayed in 5 weeks as the 2 pac paint was cracking in places and had a few bubbles from rust in middle of doing the prep work on it as we speak just undercoating it and putting 12 gallons of plastidip as im getting a kit really cheap, also having the rear drag looking wheels modified this week as you can see even with just 225's there sticking out the guards . engine out replacing oil pump and checked bottom end clearances http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010051W1435761691256300 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010061W1435761691256300 engine back in after a refresh http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010031W1435761691256300 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010021W1435761691256300 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010041W1435761691256300 Battery in boot , only pic i have on pc http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010011W1435761691256300 Interior needs some work but getting there slowly , older photo's allot tidier now http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010091W1435761691256300 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010161W1435761691256300 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010081W1435761691256300 outside pic's http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010121W1435761691256300 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010101W1435761691256300 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010111W1435761691256300 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010131W1435761691256300 Front Bar with out grille in and slight modification to steering angle http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010071W1435761691256300 More later pic's with the wheels i was talking about , have never seen them in a 4 stud cortina pattern before but i love them to death , as u can see the rears dont fit so there getting modified by 30mm in the offset this week. as u can also see a bit of rust in the rear quarter and wheel arch , that is also now fixed , the rust in the quarter looks really bad i was surprised when i took the 2 pac off it was just a bit of surface rust with 2 pin head rust holes , the wheel arch was pretty fudged though wielded in some new plate and shaped it with a thin layer of bog all fixed http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010141W1435761691256300 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010010151W1435761691256300

no harm taken mate this is why i posted on here to get ppl's thoughts and idea's As for the exhaust situation i should of mentioned i already have a 3inch in the shed to fit cortina from tail pipe to under the seat , i have also already got a custom fab pipe thats makes the 2 turbo exhaust dump pipes into 1 pipe 3.25 inch so it slips onto the main exhaust. moving the turbo's though would require modding the bends in the dump pipes witch should not be to much hassle as i have the turbo flanges already done would just be a matter of cutting and bending the pipes to fit , have a 3 phase mig at my disposal and grinders and a oxy. i can take pic's tomorrow and post them up. the turbo manifolds though i would get done by professional Fabricator , and get it done right the 1st time no messing about that way. im really not looking for big numbers i would be smiling with around 200rwkw and the fact i have a cortina with a twin turbo crossflow , personally i have never seen one with a twin set up and im finding out why now but in the end, i will have something unique. 200rwkw is still around a low 14 second quarter mile pass with semi slicks i fully understand where you are coming from , but a dohc motor is allot of years away already looked into it 8 to 10k easy with out any spare change using a 2nd hand FG motor and donor car. so we are talking at least minimum of 5 to 7 years away, just a future dream prospect . as it is this is going to take me 4 to 6 months to complete as i will be buying piece by piece and getting bits done slowly. if you think im crazy have a listen to this ,all because i like these wheels i have on atm , they are 8 inch wide rims 4x14 but the offset is wrong so tyres stick out the guards , im spending $185 a rim to have the offset changed just to fit them under the ass .... offset is being changed by 30mm's , at the end of the day , i dont care what i spend ill eat 2 minute noodles every night for 6 months and do the hard yards . but hopefully your guys input will make those hard yards allot shorter lol. the motor that i have atm with out the turbo's is great , i checked tonight has no port work so i might pull it off this week and at least use a die grinder and take out the imperfections and do a port match and polish i really do appreciate your input , but my mind is kinda set on making this happen also the sequential idea is interesting hit me up when you start a build thread on that i wont close the forums lol