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Mixalis

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Posts posted by Mixalis

  1. Posted

    Hey Steve,

     

    Just confirming you do in fact have one of the TFI/EST Hall effect distributors without any mechanical/vac advance systems built in?

     

    Regarding the timing curve, I set up a 'curve' (with some advice from @gerg) quite a few years back on my crossflow using a 6al2. It has been quite a while and I never touched it since, but it was effectively linear'ish' between by timing at idle and max timing at WOT RPM (my combo has higher compression, i believe i kept the ceiling somewhere around ~26ish degrees, been a very long time). I spent more time hooking up a 1 BAR MAP sensor to dial in advance at different loads as well which helped with economy. It works fine but hasn't been on a dyno so theres room to improve

     

    I then road tuned a 4.0 sohc turbo that I fabricated and wired (Stinger ECU) with a similar curve (at atmospheric) and then dialled the timing back under different boost pressures. When I started tuning the fueling, i had the timing at a static value the entire curve - it drove around absolutely fine. Left the timing till last - took an educated punt based off other people combinations. It works fine, hasn't been on a dyno so definitely has room to improve.

     

    Moral of the whole story above - if you're going to a dyno, I honestly wouldn't worry too much about the timing side of it - even a single value across the whole curve will work fine. If you don't have access to a dyno and a knock sensor, you really are just guessing. Even if you rock up to the dyno with a flat timing curve, as long as the dyno operator has a knock sensor (and of course a dyno), then you can hopefully rest assured they will do a good job after you drop the car off. 

     

    But you've done a great job to sort out the fuelling side from before and also confirm that the ECU knows the position of the engine (timing at ECU is what you see on balancer) - that will surely save you some dyno time money. Really keen to see how you go!

    gerg reacted to this

  2. Posted

    2 minutes ago, gerg said:

    You are correct grasshopper. AU onwards I believe used the Mustang T5 input and bellhousing depth, which is 5/8” longer. You could possibly use a spacer between the box and the bellhousing to correct this but that throws your tailshaft length and shifter position out.

    Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
     

     

    Damn... Well i have a mate measuring up an XF bellhousing 250-T5 now so ill know if you're lying, and ill let everyone know as well I swear i will

     

  3. Posted

    Greg you're a legend as usual.

     

    Unfortunately not the answer i was hoping for :(. Going by the above is it fair to say that the input shaft on an AU T5 is in fact longer than the input shaft on any other T5/single rail in early for 6's? 

     

    In other words, is the 250 crossflow T5 bell housing (suit XF) the same depth as 250 crossflow single rail, and in turn shallower than the AU T5 bell housing? 

  4. Posted

    Hi guys reviving this thread.

     

    Does anyone happen to have the measurement for the length of a single rail input shaft (cortina if it makes any difference?) Mainly after the length between the tip of the input shaft to the face of the transmission case.

     

    Further to that, do we know if the measurement above is exactly the same as what is found in the T5?

     

    Thank you in advance

  5. Posted

     
    Ha ha, ando will be here soon boys don't worry, gotta love how we all instantly knew what the joke was


    Hahaha I think we’ve been hanging around the forums too long


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  6. Posted

    Oil pump failed , got a new x-flow engine to put in next weekend , going to rebuild the XFs old motor ... Gonna go nuts on it , new pistons , oil pump , wild cam ...the whole hog . gonna take a while but hopefully be ready by October for a memorial cruise 


    Going to beat everyone in to it, make sure it’s a standard volume oil pump not high volume !


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  9. Posted

    All good, it’s for a slight lope to it; doesn’t really have that rough sound to it, entry level chop if we can call it that hahaha. Considering what others are saying regarding the limits on the stock ecu, I don’t think you’ll be getting too much lope either on idle unfortunately...


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  10. Posted

    Ahaha if you saw photos of my ghia mate. Monza red ghia,Louvours,visor,headlight protectors,bonnet protector,door stoppers,fluffy seat covers absolute papou spec car so what cam are you running all wit crow gear? 


    Hahaha that’s mad chuck us some photos if you like! The dizzy gear you need for aftermarket cams in crossflow is the Crow DG2.

    I’m running a Crow 14892 which is 214@0.05” and .510” lift on a 112 lobe

    You in Sydney area by any chance ?


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  11. Posted

    Hey mate all solid advice here. Agree with Greg, definitely do valve springs seems to be the general consensus.

    My cam is a little bigger and I’ve gotten away with standard rockers and standard pushrods without a problem turning to 5000rpm. So if you’re going for a little upgrade using standard efi then I can’t imagine you would need anything more than new valve springs.

    Also don’t forget the crow dizzy gear as well as well when going aftermarket cam!

    Btw love the username


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  12. Posted

    I think that the easier way is to build a 1FZ-FE. 275ci (and kits to take them to 311ci), 4 valves per cylinder, alloy head, 100mm bore, good ignition setup and ok parts availability  (although $$$).


    The quickest import radial car in the world runs one of those too


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  13. Posted

    Yeah i found that but couldn't find the 300 cuba


    Ah ok what you want to do is click on his videos, they should be the most recent ones from memory; one has a few million views that’s part 1(the title is radical engine build or something) then part 2 is after it

    The videos are quite long


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  15. Posted

    For anyone interested in more on the 300 cube engines, type in Elisons Machine Shop into Facebook; he’s doing a pull down on an insane aspo one


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  17. Posted

    Sort of on topic, but does anyone here know if a Barra crank will bolt into crossflow? I remember the EF cranks go into certain crossflow blocks (but can be machined to fit into other crossflow blocks?), and I think the Barra cranks can go into 4.0 SOHC blocks?

    Reason I’m going down this path is Spool is putting together a 4.2L stroker crank (103mm strike from memory) for the Barra


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  18. Posted

    For a light flywheel i am impressed with mine. 6.5kg with ring gear on.

    Www.ironforce.co.nz

    Be cheap as with aussie money haha6c47a494ae03ccf51b3fc3f033d43c9b.jpg

    Sent from my SM-J330G using Tapatalk




    Looks awesome mate is this also a Windsor one as well that fit? Did you ever drive the car with the standard flywheel to compare?


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  21. Posted

    Little bit late to the party but good luck with the build mate! I’m running a 14892 (have been for a while) and was great at the time because it standard converter (now a manual), standard rockers and standard balancer so the shows all over by 5,000rpm. But yeh can’t wait to go abit bigger eventually.

     

    So a couple of you have mentioned aftermarket lightened flywheels, had no idea this was an option. So the Windsor one with the correct tooth count bolts straight in? Would you still be able to use the pressure plate and clutch from the standard flywheel or do new holes need to be tapped into the flywheel? Excuse my ignorance with this one

     

     

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  24. Posted

    Hahaha it's a mates car, it's a N/a 250 with a single 4 barrel Holley, C4 and 9in 


    Hahaha that's awesome mate very very Tuff!! Hopefully bump into the car at the creek one day


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