SteveHobart

Hey guys! Well I had the heater core go in my XF so had to pull the dash out to get to it (pic below, it is really stuffed). Anyway, the dash backing is really brittle and has snapped in a few places where it screws to the bulkhead (and no, it wasn’t me who did it). Anyway, what’s the best way to reattach it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey mate I have a MS3X on a 250 Crossy EFI and it works great. Pretty simple to hook up: - TPS (use existing) - Fast Idle (existing) - 2 Wires of the Dizzy TFI Module - Wideband O2 sensor - Intake Air Temp sensor - MAF (inbuilt to the MS Box) - Temp Sensor And your running. MS box also controls the Thermo's. Easy as Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Guys Wanted to start a new thread focussing on wiring as I know a lot of the other tech on this conversion has been covered (and I am reading widely). So I have an EFI XF which I want to put a (rather cranky) 302W EFI into. The 302 will have: - stroker kit - Aeroflow Heads - Comp Cams xe284h cam - Roller rockers So should go ok. At the moment I have cut up the XF loom and am running a Megasquirt ECU (so EECIV is gone). Have the following sensors: - MAF - Intake Air Temp - Wideband O2 - TPS I have a few questions on the 302w (which is factory EFI out of a F150): - do I maintain the batch fire injection or wire it for full sequential? - the MAF, Intake Air Temp and Wideband O2 can be re-used, will I need another O2 for the second bank? - does the 302w run a knock sensor or anything similar? - Fast Idle solenoid works great in the XF on the 250 Crossy, does the 302 have one? Anything that I may be missing? Heaps of capacity in the Megasquirt unit to run full sequential injection etc etc, but need to know about the rest of it. Thanks Steve Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey all. I'm looking to change diff ratio on my XF Sedan. I've currently got a 25 spline BW running stock ratios (2.77 from memory). Want to go to 3.3's (ish). I heard that E series 28 Spline Diffs will fit and have available ratios (and can add a LSD). My question, what model E series will be a straight (ish) swap? Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks mate. It's not a road car, it's for blasting around a track/doing hill climb events. Engine has been modded, 10:1 compression, big cam, aftermarket ECU, soon to be running Turbo and E85. The 2.7's create too much of a gap between the gears, for instance, on the back straight at the track you can rev out 3rd, put it in 4th and it only just comes on song when it's time to jump on the brakes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey All I am looking for some help. I have a XF Crossflow EFI which I have built with: Crow 14771 Cam Zero Decked head- 10:1 compression Lightened flywheel And a few other small mechanical mods. It’s all run with a MS3X ECU. Whilst I can get the fuel table pretty close, I am struggling a little with the advance curve on the dizzy. I have confirmed 8 degrees base advance via a timing light with the Spout disconnected. Does anyone have, at least a stock advance curve that I can input into the ECU as a start. I have it booked in for a Dyno tune on the 1st of July (earliest booking) but really want to give it a crack before then! Thanks in advance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey all! I was wondering where the ECU Temp Sender/Sensor is located in an EFI XF 250 Crossflow. I have an outlet for it in the Thermostat housing, is that’s where it should go? Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey all I am having some issues with my Alternator not charging the battery. For background, I have completely rewired the car as I have relocated the battery to the boot and installed a MS3X to run the new EFI CrossFlow engine I have built. At the moment I have the 12V input wire to the Alternator running off the Relay for the Thermo Fan (I have checked the input voltage and it’s 11.98V to the Alternator). The alternator output goes straight to the Positive Distribution Block under the bonnet via an (oversized and insulated) charge cable. On the output pin of the alternator I have the insulation disk under the (assuming) voltage regulator and then the output cable. Pics below. The only ‘modification’ to the alternator was I took the pulley off it as my youngest dropped it (for me) and I had to straighten up one of the fins. Help, I have no idea where to go with this next (except replace the Alternator). Cheers Steve Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, it need an exciter wire. It’s the spade terminal on the back of the alternator. On the XF it’s actually the ALT warning light on the dash providing the exciter charge. That’s all good on this set up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Guys. Yup, alternator checked ok. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Dave! Thanks for your input. Yes, the charge light is working correctly, on when in ‘Ignition On’ position and goes out when the car starts. Still no charge on the alternator Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Guys What Vacuum Hoses/Outlets do I really need on a Crossflow? For mine, all I REALLY need is: - idle speed controller - Brake Booster - Fuel Regulator - Inside Air Controller So can I whittle down the Vacuum Outputs to these only and blank off all the others? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah damnit. It’s just so messy! [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys. Still chasing a gremlin in the XF 250 Crossflow. So it’ll turn over and run for a very little while (like seconds) then lock up. At the moment I can rock it back and forth about 20mm on the Balancer with a breaker bar and that’s it. It’s not seized, but it’s definately stuck on something. Engine was professionally rebuilt, so I’m thinking it’s something I did. All I put on was the Flywheel, clutch, and pilot bearing. The rest was done by a pro. Engine is out at the moment, flywheel and clutch look ok. Mains and Conrod bearings look fine, no play in the rods or mains. For reference. Engine was professionally rebuilt with: - Aftermarket Cam - New Valve Springs and timing gear - 0 decked block - everything professionally machined and reassembled. I’m out of ideas....HELP! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ha ha Before I ran it I: - Filled the Oil Filter - Put a drop of oil down each cylinder - Spun the oil pump to prime it - turned it over a few times without fuel and plugs - checked oil in the top end (yes) - put it together and tried to start it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It probably isn’t mate. It’s been about 18 months and, even though I haven’t run it, I’ve taken a while to get to this point. So I would suggest Warantee run out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not really Bear. Not for more than a minute before doing this. I’m trying to eliminate one thing at a time. Today is the bottom end. Just pulled one of the main caps and it still has bearing grease on it! So I’m assuming it’s not a bottom end thing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s done this since I got it back. Free up, lock up, free up etc etc Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Mate. Should have added, started and plugs are out, still doesn’t turn. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all I’m just wondering, what are the wires coming out of the distributor which is the PIP and the SPOUT wires (ie colours) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Guys! Well I found the fuel leak in my XF. Right in the injector rail there is a little crack. So the whole thing is out. My question is repair. Any existing/second hand rails could potentially have the same issue. My question is, is there a later model (eg E Series for instance) that will fit the XF without too much stuffing around? Cheers Steve Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi All. I’m looking for some advice. I have an issue with my 250 Crossflow EFI Engine. She will start up and run (really rich) but then stop. I’m suspecting it’s hydrolocking on fuel (you can look into the cylinder and see a pool of petrol on top of the piston). Is a rebuilt engine, running 10:1 compression, big cam and Megasquirt ecu and bigger injectors (as advised by the Injector Shop) I need someone to help diagnose what could be causing this, I am thinking it could be (solely or a combination of): - Open Circuit on the Injectors - Overly rich fuel map on the Megasquirt - Too big injectors Any advise would be appreciated. And yes, it is an actual deep pool of petrol sitting on top of the cylinder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. Smells of fuel badly. Thanks guys! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And where does that live? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all! I’m just trying to change the oil in my single rail gearbox. It appears that the fellow who owned the car before my has partially rounded off the fill but. Can someone please confirm: - the proper size of the filler nut - any tips for removal Cheers Steve Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk