ronny

This is slightly off topic;

 

My ZK is an 82 build. They were available with the Cleveland. Its a carby 250.

 

What is the process for changing the rego details in SA if I fit a Clevo?

 

I'm aware of the age of engine vs age of car rule, but will they actually know from the engine number?

 

Just inspection for engine number change or more involved?

 

I wouldn't bother if it will need original carby/manifold/air cleaner/emissions etc.

 

On a similar note would I have any luck passing a roller windsor with a carby on it?

Thats an engineer job, as long as all the other v8 gear and suspension goes on its not a prob to pass

Only catch is you need to pay the money to get it done...

Then your rego papers will have the v8 number recorded

Good idea to get it done cos if anyone with a car with major mods (and not passed) is in a prang (especially a big one with lawyers) insurance may be void

I thought that perhaps that was the cause of pressure build up in my fuel tank.

No that's a different line to the fuel tank

Good comments above

Also keep in mind engine temps

If your motor runs hotter or works hard, go for a bit thicker oil

And if you do use a thicker oil, make sure you are gentle with the revs when cold until the oil pressure starts dropping off

Just plug the line and make it disappear as though it goes somewhere

Mmmmmm I think im stuffed then. I used a 9mm bit and the m10 tap. So that explains why stripped again.

Mmm wonder how a dyna bolt would fix it now :-(

As i said, not as easy as it seems to do a good tap job

Firstly as said need to use the right drill bit

Also you need to use cutting oil (not any lube) and need to know when to pull the tap out to clean and go again

Sharpness of the tap is another variable

Its a bit of an art form which im not good at myself

Helicoil seems to be the last resort

Ok a bit more history...

First alt was a chrome AC delco (had no idea of which alts were any good)

I made custom brackets with the p/s and alt on the same belt

The problem was not enough belt touching the alt pulley (approx 30%) so when revved the belt would fry

To overcome that I put a bigger pulley on the alt which solved the belt issue

Output was poor so went to buy a new alt

Was a bit of mucking around to change to Bosch, so after being told AC delco is ok I stuck with them

Got a new one that needed an exciter, so hooked up a little light to do that

The guts was moving and was pushing the bearing out the back so got given a new one (the current one)

Now this one has held together for a while

I can't remember what output was when it was new but I needed a good battery for the car to last a whole day

I put it down to the bigger pulley not turning the alt fast enough

Having a fresh battery would get me through the day until I got back to a trickle charger

It time I sorted this out so did the test and added up the draw to work out what I need

Ive always wanted to change to serpentine belt so I can turn an alt faster

Charging system help

Ive got an AC Delco alternator that is a 80-120 amp (variable)

I put the voltmeter on the back of it and it showed 12.2 volts at idle (not enough)

Its turning twice as fast as the crank so the alt is doing 2000-13000 revs

This is not enough for what the car is drawing

Water pump, fuel pump, fans and ignition have a max draw of 65A

It would seem the alt should do the job guessing total draw from everything is say 100A

How much minimum output from the alternator do I need to run my car?

Do I need to turn it faster?

Could it be a poor alternator?

My top drivers side water pump bolt keeps stripping the thread. I have drilled and tapped it twice already and its up to a m10 size now.

 

Is there anything available like a dyna bolt to use on the hole to hold water pump and alt bracket in?

 

I think the metal will keep stripping

No offence but how good do you think you are tapping?

Its easy to do a bad job, not as easy as people think

I havn't yet but will be switching to a BIG relay and basic on/off switch for mine and deleting the controller. 

Did that too, just make sure you dont forget to flick it on lol

That switch always stays on in my car, id rather a slower warm up with all the water at an even temp

I prefer to just leave the fans off for a quicker warm up

^^^ yes good point gerg about timing, very true

My big block can run a bit over 40 deg total (with 98 fuel and not very hot weather)

Learning what detonation sounds like is very important for car enthusiasts

That way you can find where your motor wants the timing

It will be the fan, poor airflow

Clutch fans were put on from factory for a reason

So to replicate that volume of air, good elec fan/s are needed eg el, au fans or aftermarket fan/s with WIDE BLADES

I know it would be a pain in the arse but to make sure there are no bits floating around I would open it up

Must go to an engineer first to do this in this car

You will need to pass emissions, lane change and torsion test

Will cost 2.5 to 4 depending on the engineer

Edit: You might need cats depending if its an '85 car or '86

Looks awesome James

Those return springs look very heavy? Too heavy?

Personally i would only use 1 unless at the drags where 2 are required

we've just finished changing my old mans 393 clevo from a solid roller to a hydraulic roller, in 30,000ks it's ruined 2 sets of lifters,one cam and 5 rockers, clevo's and big block Chevy's seem to have a habit of causing excessive wear and tear on solid rollers from some of the stories I've heard, if it's going to see plenty of street miles go for a hydraulic roller, essentially set and forget (in saying that comp and lunati are both doing extreme duty solid roller lifters now so they may have overcome the issue now)

Any motor with solid roller and lots of idling/street miles = sore lifters

But now they have the bushed lifters (well Isky has been making bushed for a long time)

These bushed lifters (rather than the needle pin bearing) last a long long time

I do understand that. Is there a switch on the guage itself to change between unleaded / LPG / ethanol?

(It comes with software)

Is that compatible with e85?

Yep

Only leaded fuels stuff the sensor

expect to keep frying top gear whether you go c4 or c6

A stock one yes but not if its built right

I'd recommend a well built C4

As xdwagooon said, shifter is personal

If the trans is set up for "chuck it in D and drive" standard shifter is fine

If you get a manual valve body, a hurst or B&M is more user friendly (lots to chose from)

Ive got this kit and very happy with it

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=150

I liked this one cos the display is very small

I plug in a lap top at the drags and log my run

Too hard to watch the guage at WOT lol

No one makes them

Just need to keep looking for a good one, the xf ones fit too i think

Engine out, dont learn the hard way

It will always leak if you do it in the car

I agree Thom

Im using Mcdonald adjustable uppers and standard lower with rock hard bushes

Good enough for getting the pinion angle how i want it

Could be the alt

Get under bonnet and have a good listen while giving it a few revs at the carby

ill ask my mate where he got his for his roller ronny, what size do you need?

Cheers, 2.5" oval they call it which is actually 1 3/4" x 3"