ronny

No worries mate, was fun

Fixed

I gave nick a hand last night and there were 2 problems

First was the filter on the pick up in the tank had pushed itself up which stopped any fuel getting through

Second was the needle and seat needed a few taps to free up and let fuel through (spot on gerg)

Mine do that on cold nights too

Usually once the car has warmed up and there is some heat around they demist themselves

I bet its a cracked/split rubber fuel hose leading up to the fuel pump

Dont worry about checking hoses up to the carby, if its leaking there you will see it as there is pressure after the pump

I had a look at the PBR and Aussie Desert Cooler units and while i would say their finish is far superior so is their pricing at roughly 4 times the price.

 

I have also read of late of issues with leaks. Dont know if its true or not though.

From what i know, PBR is def better than Aussie Desert Cooler

At $165 why wouldn't you give it a go. For so long its always been a case of you get what you pay for but it seems on some things its not always so. A customer of ours has a mustang with a pretty stout 363 Windsor and couldn't keep it cool with a alloy rad and electric fan package all bought through a very well known aussie company. Tried all sorts of the usual tricks to sort it and in the end a cheapy alloy ebay job that cost about what you guys spent with an au fan assembly did the job.  

Id say it was the fans that caused overheating issues and not the radiator

The fans that came with my desert cooler were shit

IMO a radiator leaks or it doesnt, its the air & water flow that matters

Thats the same radiator i got as well.

Lets see how long they last lol

If i get 2 years i'll be stoked and buy another

Nicely done. Raincheck...........

$165.90 more what you were thinking lol

Nice job. Sorry to hijack, BigCav, what mods did you get done, Ronny? All up cost?  Wanna sell it?  

All up cost $165

Plus contra deal on the mods

Mods: "Cover plate" on top to hide the U channel, bung welded to tank for drain valve, overflow barb moved around 90 degrees on filler neck

Sell it? $400 its yours then ill have to go buy and modify another one lol

(having a valve for drainage on my current radiator and trying to work out the wierd thread (1/2" BSP) and buying the tap and making the bung was a pain in the A)

Got a cheap one, $165 landed

I got it customised a bit, the welder said it has very poor quality aluminium lol

Are you retensioning the new belts after some driving?

Ive found new belts stretch a fair bit

What did you end up getting Cav?

I'm doing some research for a new one

Id be keen to try a cheap one but they are all standard width 56mm

Are there cheap arse ones that are wider ie like 70mm wide?

Edit: Just realised it's core width not overall width

So 56mm is fat enough

I have a PRP 1006 on mine, suits ford cable.

Does look good but you might want to switch it around so the return springs are working from the opposite end

You are pulling and returning from the same end, will work like that but not good long term

I use the CVR (same shape) and it works with the standard cable

I went from the back though to make it look neater

 

 

 

 

If possible you want the cable and return spring at opposite points

Pulling and returning from the same point/end can wear out the shaft/carby

If you like doing a few skids with a LSD... make sure you get the wheels spinning before you turn the steering wheel

Kent Brake and Clutch on Port rd.

Powerbrakes Holden Hill

 

 

No idea on $$$.

Kents closed about a year ago

Sounds like vac leak

You guys are prob right

My thinking:

Firstly i think liquid filled looks cool so i wanted it lol

I specifically wanted mechanical for my water temp too so i know what it is with the ignition off

To make all the small gauges in the cluster the same (liquid filled) I got mechanical oil, trans and fuel too

As said above, its the reference point that matters

So any changes to normal are noticed

^^^ As said, liquid filled gauges designed for high vibration applications

I dont think its required for this car

^^^ For sure, gotta know where you're at

I wouldnt put another filter for the return line

Also a 6psi max pump wouldnt need a reg/check valve

Road testing has not gone too well.

 

I am getting vapor lock issues and  stumbling under load. (which I assume is due to insufficent fuel pressure at the carb)

 

-I've then insulated the fuel line from the T piece to the carb, but it hasn't made a noticeable difference to stumbing.

 

 

That will be a carb issue, nothing to do with the pump

You are starting with fuel in the bowls

After that once you are using fuel fast then the pump comes into the equation

Pump needs a relief

Some people pump the fuel all the way to the motor (reg) and return from there

I prefer to have the relief right after the pump back to the tank so the fuel heats up less (not near hot engine bay)

Yeah, Ronny. As I said, done it twice. Just be patient and don't try to do all the changes at once. Changed my XB ute from 200 to 351, and an XD 250Xflow to 351. No Regency.

 

Vehicle details MUST match what Rego has on file, or no good. Original engine/chassis number/rego plate.....

Ok, so just scrub off the new v8 engine number and put the old 6cyl number on the v8?

go in to Rego and fill out an engine swap form. Just paperwork.

 

Id be interested if that was the case

I tried that first and was told no, engine capacity change was a regency job

Unless you know someone there?