-
Content Count
270 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Posts posted by ronny
-
-
Don't forget, 460s were mostly shit smog engines too. And they were heavy... 80 kg more than a clevo and 60 more than an M. That's like carrying an extra passenger, but on your bonnet.
But you can get some decent cubes out of them. 557 seems to be the most they go out to. That's 9.1 litres!
Yeah they are very heavy and the aftermarket blocks even heavier again...
The later blocks (385 series) could be stroked alot more than the factory chev/chrysler BB's giving them an advantage nowadays with the better top end stuff available
-
I think i like clevos again
"There's no substitute for...."
-
Ronny how many KM has your engine in your XE done? how much racing and street driving has it done? its been around for a long time when me and my mate where racing full on it was around and that's been a fair while now since my grey cars been put away
Its done over 11,000 miles with over 100 passes down the 1/4
I do run a HV pump BUT i do have a pretty big sump
I'm out of this whole thread. Not interested in a pissing competition on whose engine is better and how long it has lasted and what is better and what's not.
I've clearly stated the facts and what works and why from my own knowledge bank that, coincidentally is hard fought knowledge that actually makes me money.
Do what you want. Run what you want. I couldn't give a rats arse. Not one person has been able to tell me one positive about running a high volume pump.
At the end of the day - do what you want. Make an informed decision. Those who actually build and race Ford engines in endurance motor sports know what works and what doesn't.
Not sure why you are so revved up, most have agreed with you
But you are not the only person in the world that can build a race motor with endurance
Most race engines will use a HV pump. Why?
-
Really it depends on how much clearance the engine builder set the engine up with
By the sounds of it this motor is built to rev a bit harder than stock?
I personally would prefer to accept dizzy gear wear while the oil is cold and thick
Then when its all stinking hot with thin id prefer more flow
A HV oil pump only pumps about 15% to 20% more oil than a stock pump does
So that would mean that your stock pump is only 15% to 20% away from sucking your oil pan dry? Dont think so
Just my opinion
With a stock motor, standard pump definitely
-
You'll be fine with that pump
You have a bigger volume sump too which is good
When the oil gets hot and thin you'll be glad you got a HV pump
You might get a bit of dizzy gear wear but worth it IMO
-
To give you an idea I was stuck in a queue at Summernats for over 20 minutes just idling and it was over 40 degrees and it sat just under 200F. That's unshrouded as well just with the 16" SPAL, with a shroud would have been even better.
Thats a good result
Cubes, HP, rpm @ idle, compression, timing @ idle, fuel used, auto or manual, etc effect heat created
I removed my shroud, worked better
The SPAL fans i have there is a recess in the fan housing to run a rubber strip to seal the fan to the radiator
So the fan housing makes its own shroud
Kind of like this, i have the older style where the rubber is round
http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m4jbERooHeCyVNI-5bbg6_Q.jpg
-
werent you annoyed you didnt get what was advertised?
Always knew it was 2 core James (as advertised)
Didnt think he made a 4 core like xfish ordered
It is now being proved less cores cool better than more
Only thing i was disappointed in was quality for the price
-
Only to find its a ..............
Always knew it was 2 core James
Didnt think he made a 4 core like xfish ordered
-
-
PWR is an awesome radiator, belting around the track sits under 180.
I have never had problems in the past thrashing, moving
It was the idling and not moving was the problem
-
What Gerg said, but id just not worry about the PCV
Chances of getting pulled over, small
Chances of bonnet to be popped once pulled over, smaller
Chances the cop realises the PCV is missing, smallest
And if you get busted, just fix it then
gerg, Thom and slydog reacted to this -
Sounds like you are getting pretty close
Lean spot at constant throttle no problem
High 11 still bit rich for wot, if you can get it to 12.5 to 13 it will be quicker and better economy
Takes a fair while to set a carby up close to perfect
Are you just watching the gauge while wot?
I found that hard so I velcro'd my phone to the steering wheel and recorded it
Then I could watch the replay and break down what's exactly happening in slow mo
-
I ordered a Desert cooler 4 core ( Z flow )
4 core? Did you specially ask for that?
At the time i bought it he only had 2 core (but large 2 core) with the triple flow
Alot of new cars now have very wide single core
Apparantly works better with the heat transfer with the way the air flows past the cores
Be interesting to see if the trend carries to the aftermarket world
-
and he ran a heater hose through the chasis of the car and gave it a 90' turn and the rear bumper, than again he returned the water line down the other side and hooked it back into the system. He had a heater tap on it, and if it started to get hot, he'd hit the heater tap and the then the coolant would flow the length of the car.
Thats similar to what some pro burnout cars do to have a higher volume of coolant ie longer to heat up
-
Gotta a nice chrome cover that might fit over that radiator Ronny!
Yours looks good mate but i prefer the brushed alloy look
Nothing chrome or polished on my car
that norm from ADC is a flogger best bullshit in the business
$165 buck rad for my ute here I come link me ronny? james?
Yeah he is not bad hey, sells the dream lol
Here's one example, lots more
-
it doesn't go rich straight after flooring it.
Thats odd, maybe there is a delay with the sensor
If you had a lap top hooked up plotting AFR, you should see a rich spike when you stab it
slydog reacted to this -
Thats fine, just needs a light sand and a polish
Take it back and get them to do it
-
I've never heard one good thing about those desert cooler blokes.
Smartest thing they did was sponsor Gary Meyers the burnout king
They got alot of business from that
-
-
As sly said, how long at WOT cos the extra fuel from the squirters takes a bit to clear
Also i still wouldnt go smaller than primaries with secondary main jets, id try to reduce the fuel from the PV circuit first
slydog reacted to this -
If there's a flat spot coming onto the mains then you could try raising the float a little. This makes the mains come on sooner and harder. I'd prefer to adjust that than to pump more fuel in through the squirters. Some will argue that you shouldn't play with float levels but then why would Holley make them fully adjustable if there was a hard-and-fast rule about float settings?
Your engine doesnt care about where it gets fuel from. If raising the level cures your flat spot, so be it.
Yeah higher float level gives fuel quicker
I play with the level a bit on mine at the drags
Is it ok to run smaller jets in the secondaries than in the primaries. Im also going to try a different air filter set up as i've manage to fit a 12x3 drop base under the cortina bonnet with a 1/2 spacer and its tight under there. I've notice after setting the idle and refitting the filter the ratio changes quite a bit. Hoping to have a play tomorrow and try out everyones tips.
Prob not a good idea, when your secondaries are working you are getting a fair bit of air coming in
So you need the extra fuel to compensate
slydog reacted to this -
Why would you touch the idle mixture screws when he has perfect idle air mixture? It could go to 15-16 but really 14 is fine.
Primary mixture is controlled by the jets and he had 11.7 so why would you change that?
The problem is enrichment on 'flooring it' so that is controlled by the accelerator pump and squirters and has nothing to do with primary jetting.
As to air bleeds - they control the real high speed and idle as well and have nothing to do with his issue and yes if you play with them with no clue you will stuff things.
The problem is clearly in the enrichment on acceleration and any google search on Holley carbs will back up what I have said and what I know from tuning these things.
Yes you are right
Sorry i just saw his first post and replied when it was 17:1 at idle and 10:1 WOT
Sould have read more
No offence to LJDB but someone with these questions should not touch air bleeds
-
You need more fuel in the primaries (can do this with idle mixture screw)
And less in the secondaries (You can do this with jets)
Dont muck around with air bleeds YET
Playing with air bleeds can do some very strange things
-
Sealing the sump properly after is the hard bit doing this in the car
Snowflake rims - Identification.
in Wheels and Tyres
Posted
That's right, I asked them 10 years ago and they wouldn't do it