ronny

Thats an engineer job, as long as all the other v8 gear and suspension goes on its not a prob to pass Only catch is you need to pay the money to get it done... Then your rego papers will have the v8 number recorded Good idea to get it done cos if anyone with a car with major mods (and not passed) is in a prang (especially a big one with lawyers) insurance may be void

No that's a different line to the fuel tank

Good comments above Also keep in mind engine temps If your motor runs hotter or works hard, go for a bit thicker oil And if you do use a thicker oil, make sure you are gentle with the revs when cold until the oil pressure starts dropping off

Just plug the line and make it disappear as though it goes somewhere

I took the alt back and they checked it out It was working, just wasnt exciting cos the little globe i use as the exciter had popped, newbie error by me Anyway they opened it up and it had heat damage pretty bad which means it was working too hard So i bought a new bosch alt 120A which produces less at low revs so i will need to turn this one a bit faster (changing to serpentine at last...) Below is the output of the 2 alts as tested while i watched

Charging system help Ive got an AC Delco alternator that is a 80-120 amp (variable) I put the voltmeter on the back of it and it showed 12.2 volts at idle (not enough) Its turning twice as fast as the crank so the alt is doing 2000-13000 revs This is not enough for what the car is drawing Water pump, fuel pump, fans and ignition have a max draw of 65A It would seem the alt should do the job guessing total draw from everything is say 100A How much minimum output from the alternator do I need to run my car? Do I need to turn it faster? Could it be a poor alternator?

As i said, not as easy as it seems to do a good tap job Firstly as said need to use the right drill bit Also you need to use cutting oil (not any lube) and need to know when to pull the tap out to clean and go again Sharpness of the tap is another variable Its a bit of an art form which im not good at myself Helicoil seems to be the last resort

Ok a bit more history... First alt was a chrome AC delco (had no idea of which alts were any good) I made custom brackets with the p/s and alt on the same belt The problem was not enough belt touching the alt pulley (approx 30%) so when revved the belt would fry To overcome that I put a bigger pulley on the alt which solved the belt issue Output was poor so went to buy a new alt Was a bit of mucking around to change to Bosch, so after being told AC delco is ok I stuck with them Got a new one that needed an exciter, so hooked up a little light to do that The guts was moving and was pushing the bearing out the back so got given a new one (the current one) Now this one has held together for a while I can't remember what output was when it was new but I needed a good battery for the car to last a whole day I put it down to the bigger pulley not turning the alt fast enough Having a fresh battery would get me through the day until I got back to a trickle charger It time I sorted this out so did the test and added up the draw to work out what I need Ive always wanted to change to serpentine belt so I can turn an alt faster

No offence but how good do you think you are tapping? Its easy to do a bad job, not as easy as people think

Did that too, just make sure you dont forget to flick it on lol That switch always stays on in my car, id rather a slower warm up with all the water at an even temp I prefer to just leave the fans off for a quicker warm up

^^^ yes good point gerg about timing, very true My big block can run a bit over 40 deg total (with 98 fuel and not very hot weather) Learning what detonation sounds like is very important for car enthusiasts That way you can find where your motor wants the timing

It will be the fan, poor airflow Clutch fans were put on from factory for a reason So to replicate that volume of air, good elec fan/s are needed eg el, au fans or aftermarket fan/s with WIDE BLADES

I know it would be a pain in the arse but to make sure there are no bits floating around I would open it up

Must go to an engineer first to do this in this car You will need to pass emissions, lane change and torsion test Will cost 2.5 to 4 depending on the engineer Edit: You might need cats depending if its an '85 car or '86

Looks awesome James Those return springs look very heavy? Too heavy? Personally i would only use 1 unless at the drags where 2 are required

Any motor with solid roller and lots of idling/street miles = sore lifters But now they have the bushed lifters (well Isky has been making bushed for a long time) These bushed lifters (rather than the needle pin bearing) last a long long time

Yes with the laptop, just choose the fuel or manually choose which stoich fuel ratio you want(It comes with software)

Yep Only leaded fuels stuff the sensor

A stock one yes but not if its built right I'd recommend a well built C4 As xdwagooon said, shifter is personal If the trans is set up for "chuck it in D and drive" standard shifter is fine If you get a manual valve body, a hurst or B&M is more user friendly (lots to chose from)

Ive got this kit and very happy with it http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=150 I liked this one cos the display is very small I plug in a lap top at the drags and log my run Too hard to watch the guage at WOT lol

No one makes them Just need to keep looking for a good one, the xf ones fit too i think

Engine out, dont learn the hard way It will always leak if you do it in the car

I agree Thom Im using Mcdonald adjustable uppers and standard lower with rock hard bushes Good enough for getting the pinion angle how i want it

Could be the alt Get under bonnet and have a good listen while giving it a few revs at the carby

Cheers, 2.5" oval they call it which is actually 1 3/4" x 3"