ronny

No worries mate, was fun

Fixed I gave nick a hand last night and there were 2 problems First was the filter on the pick up in the tank had pushed itself up which stopped any fuel getting through Second was the needle and seat needed a few taps to free up and let fuel through (spot on gerg)

Mine do that on cold nights too Usually once the car has warmed up and there is some heat around they demist themselves

I bet its a cracked/split rubber fuel hose leading up to the fuel pump Dont worry about checking hoses up to the carby, if its leaking there you will see it as there is pressure after the pump

From what i know, PBR is def better than Aussie Desert Cooler

Id say it was the fans that caused overheating issues and not the radiator The fans that came with my desert cooler were shit IMO a radiator leaks or it doesnt, its the air & water flow that matters

Lets see how long they last lol If i get 2 years i'll be stoked and buy another

$165.90 more what you were thinking lol

All up cost $165 Plus contra deal on the mods Mods: "Cover plate" on top to hide the U channel, bung welded to tank for drain valve, overflow barb moved around 90 degrees on filler neck Sell it? $400 its yours then ill have to go buy and modify another one lol (having a valve for drainage on my current radiator and trying to work out the wierd thread (1/2" BSP) and buying the tap and making the bung was a pain in the A)

Got a cheap one, $165 landed I got it customised a bit, the welder said it has very poor quality aluminium lol

Are you retensioning the new belts after some driving? Ive found new belts stretch a fair bit

What did you end up getting Cav? I'm doing some research for a new one Id be keen to try a cheap one but they are all standard width 56mm Are there cheap arse ones that are wider ie like 70mm wide? Edit: Just realised it's core width not overall width So 56mm is fat enough

Does look good but you might want to switch it around so the return springs are working from the opposite end You are pulling and returning from the same end, will work like that but not good long term

If possible you want the cable and return spring at opposite points Pulling and returning from the same point/end can wear out the shaft/carby

If you like doing a few skids with a LSD... make sure you get the wheels spinning before you turn the steering wheel

Kents closed about a year ago

Sounds like vac leak

You guys are prob right My thinking: Firstly i think liquid filled looks cool so i wanted it lol I specifically wanted mechanical for my water temp too so i know what it is with the ignition off To make all the small gauges in the cluster the same (liquid filled) I got mechanical oil, trans and fuel too As said above, its the reference point that matters So any changes to normal are noticed

^^^ As said, liquid filled gauges designed for high vibration applications I dont think its required for this car

^^^ For sure, gotta know where you're at

I wouldnt put another filter for the return line Also a 6psi max pump wouldnt need a reg/check valve

That will be a carb issue, nothing to do with the pump You are starting with fuel in the bowls After that once you are using fuel fast then the pump comes into the equation

Pump needs a relief Some people pump the fuel all the way to the motor (reg) and return from there I prefer to have the relief right after the pump back to the tank so the fuel heats up less (not near hot engine bay)

Ok, so just scrub off the new v8 engine number and put the old 6cyl number on the v8?

Id be interested if that was the case I tried that first and was told no, engine capacity change was a regency job Unless you know someone there?