adrianphu123

Just use your hands. I removed all of mine without any tools, just be very careful and go slow.

Hey guys, cant seem to install the rear brake handbrake adjuster screw with the seal on. Its a real tight fit. I tried using a G-clamp with one of then and ruined the seal. Any ideas? the fact its about 10 degrees out might be causing the bore to shrink slightly. I'll try again in the morning.

turns out in my haste, i cut the fanbelt and the spares i had are too long(1040 fits and 1060 is too long) better i find out here than the side of the road i guess. No updates until at least tomorrow. I have heard of that happening but dont think its the hoses as both were replaced about 3 months ago. How do i test the cluster? I had the sender tested (somehow?) a few years back but its been consistent ever since.

I ended up putting in a 160F(71dgree) thermostat because the one i pulled out appeared to be a 160F one. Had 300/400/160 marked on one side and V161 on the backside on the part that moves. The one i pulled off didnt have a jiggle pin either but did have a notch so visually new and old are identical. I placed the notch at the highest possible orientation. The temp fluctuation didnt start after i installed the filter so i can discount that. And whether you're accelerating or not has no effect, its all over the place. Tested the old thermostat in boiling water and it does open but i didnt test if openings were consistent with the rated temp or not.

plus has anyone used a stant thermostat? they dont have a jiggle pin, but seem to have a very small nick on the inner plate. Is this the air bleed?

Radiator was flushed out and i run a top hose filter Water pump replaced 3 months ago No A/C Temp still fluctuate on the highway or at the lights TIming hasnt changed So I'll be replacing the thermostat, its not expensive. Would you guys go for a 71 degree or 82 degree thermostat?

the gearbox? I think there is a way to identify externally, something to do with the casting around the reverse gear mechanism, since XF T5 didnt have syncros in reverse while the ones after the XF did. I was told after i asked whether it was possible to retrofit syncros into the reverse gear of a XF T5 without changing the extension housing and apparently it is not possible. Anyone else know anything about this?

green

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1000-what-colour-speedo-gear/

Im looking to do the exact same thing. 3.27 diff with a T5 gearbox. 21 tooth i believe

Hey guys, recently started having a squeaky steering column. The noise is intermittent, but only during tighter turns such as corners and roundabouts. Any ideas? thanks adrian

Correct, R next to 4th is a T5, also T5 has the fork coming out of the passenger side of the bellhousing, with the clutch cable coming out of the firewall, through the crossmember. I think any T5 should fit but im not sure. Also, look into whether the clutch is the same.

Pm sent mate.

A mate wants to know where you can get one of these, preferably new and whether an E-series clutch fork can be used? (Im not sure whether the E series even used cable clutches or if they switched to hydros by then?) thanks adrian

So basically, Old tooth count (divide) old diff ratio (multiply) new diff ratio = new tooth count

I have a T5 and 2.92 diff right now and its using a 19 tooth gear. i remember someone changing to a 3.45 and using a 23 tooth gear (i think) Im guessing it works out like this: 19 divide 2.92 = 6.51 6.51 multiply 3.45 = 22.45 so approximately 22 or 23 Im going to a 3.27 diff and im planning to use a 21 tooth gear: 19 divide 2.92 = 6.51 6.51 multiply 3.27 = 21.28 so approximately 21 or 22 You'd rather the speedo read a bit higher though, not sure if you'd go higher or lower tooth count for that lol i cant get my head around it. Theres a few tables in this link. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-FORD-EA-EB-ED-EF-EL-SPEEDO-DRIVEN-GEAR-DRIVE-COG-SELECT-FROM-LIST-/120976451040?pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&var&hash=item1c2ac225e0&_uhb=1

Hey guys, thought i'd replace the axle bearings and seals while i have them out and wanted to know how to get the cups out from each axle tube. thanks adrian

Thanks guys, just had a quick look, the cups do come out by hand (one side did anyway, havent looked at he otherside but im hoping its the same). I'll probably get a shop to remove the old ones and press new ones on

I dont really understand what you guys mean by knock it out with a drift, dont the cups push into the axle tube from the side until they seat? theres no way to get to it from behind. And what about installing a new one, whats the best way to go about that?

yes you can, saw it in streetfords or something. Orange XD, plates GMKILR

I use dex3 by valvoline i think, its a red bottle and i add a small bottle of penrite lubrizol. And make sure your clutch is completely disengaging.

I was thinking of getting one, do you guys run a map sensor to measure engine load on an NA motor? And if so, is there a general rule for retard timing based on load or is it just trial and error?

yeah i think thats what im using

Hey guys, Does anyone remember what kind of flare is on the end of the hardline which connects to the "chassis to axle" brake hose? I went to ABS and bought a brake line adaptor MF121-10-03 and its 10mm male to suit an E series brake hose, but the female side seems to suit a double flared hard line. Does the XF hardline have a bubble type flare or double (cone) type flare? Have they given me the wrong fitting?

The hose for an ED chassis to diff has a seat to suit a bubble flare on the chassis side. So looks like i got the right fitting after all, just gotta check the thread on the female side is 3/8UNF, thanks guys