ZJ 'lane

Do you guys have page numbers haha there are so many pages to troll through

sweet, I'll go have a look

oh yeah I got that, I've got all the dimensions for the actual sub box but what I want to do is box off the whole boot. I've seen cars with the whole boot boxed and then sub and amp are just apart of it. I'll try and get a photo of one up

What about Glen Setons car? It has the same colours as valvoline... you could change the ford credit to valvoline or the shell logo above the number? Just ideas though

The old carby was the original single barrel (as per XD). Not worth fitting it.... The XE motor has the two barrel Weber on it. Much better.... The local wreckers has a few XFs. I'll go and have a look and see what they have.

All fixed!!!! Checked all wires and then ran a huge earth strap from the battery to the chassis. Double checked the timing and she fired up straight away. Only problem left over now is that the oil pressure gauge works when the key is on, but not when the car is running (?). Any ideas?

Thank all, We'll get some extra earthing sorted out and report back. cheers

The motor has never been in the car before (the car actually hasn't had a motor in it since around 1996!!!). Apparently it was running ok in the donor car. We sourced it earlier last year and detailed it. Looks like we didn't re-installed the dizzy correctly when we put it back together. We've reset the timing to tdc and checked the leads. Weird thing is that it cranked ok when we first tried to start it a couple of weeks ago. Interior lights, blinkers, rear lights and brake lights all worked fine. And now nothing, it won't even crank. To me it looks like a wire has shorted, but I don't know where to start looking. I've pulled all the fuses and put them back one at a time. There's definitely something going wrong with the blinkers, but it appears to be in the internal harness (connecting and un connecting the front harness makes no difference.

HI all, the engine bay in the ZJ is now in primer and we are test fitting the engine and gearbox to make sure it all goes in ok and to work out how not to scratch the new paint when we get to the end. However, we’re having trouble trying to work out how the carbon canister and the air conditioning connects up. The motor is out of an XE Fairmont and has some slight differences to the original motor that was in the ZJ; mainly a canister purge valve and what we think is the Vacuum Advance Control Valve for the air con. Could someone explain how the Vacuum Advance Control Valve works (if in fact that’s what it is)? We would expect it to be connected to the air con wire so that the timing is advanced only when the air con is on. However, the wiring also connects to the choke. This is how it was wired up when we bought the motor. As we never saw the motor in the car, we're not sure if this is actually correct. If we wire it up to the 9v connection from the back of the alternator so that the choke works correctly, the vacuum advance would be on too (ie all of the time). This doesn’t sound right. Also, would the outlet tee to the right then go to the carbon canister? If so, then would we need a different canister as the current one only has two connections; one “Purge” (which connects to the purge valve) and one “To Tank” (which is already set up). The Ellery's that we have seems to indicate this.

Yep, already know blue is for air con. But what does the black wire that goes to the choke and the vacuum control plug into. Normally, yellow goes to the choke.

Hi all, Thanks for the info, we've sorted out the carbon canister, so all's good there. However, does anyone know how the vacuum advance control valve works? It seems to be hooked up to the same wire as the choke. But that doesn't seem right as it would be on all of the time and not just when the air con is on. Does anyone know if the wiring is correct? Does anyone have a picture of an original engine bay with this hooked up?

I've got a sub box that was made for utes... its tall and narrow so it can fit in the cab. (I'm not sure where it would fit, I don't have a ute haha) It's probally 20cm wide and 40cm highish it is ported too.

This is how we did it on my car, off ford forums on how to use au fans but we made it work for el fans on zj radiator. http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=57070 post #24 Thought this would be useful, not sure on the rules on linking to other sites remove if it violates any rules...

So if its an AU it will be 10 pulse? According to dad it has an adjuster on the back so I am going to do that test and see if I can make it work at 8. The cluster is originally out of a ltd, I am pretty sure it was a 6 but would have to check.

Thanks that was pretty helpful It looks like it is from an AU 2, Dad found an Gumtree ad that had the exact same part number as this one. Now all I have to do is test it to see if it will work with the speedo.

The fact that it has the same middle numbers makes me think it is an aftermarket part put on a while ago. But the wires coming out are also a completely different colour :/ Is there anyway to test the sender to see the pulse per rev without actually driving it and looking at the speedo?

here it is, should be clear enough to make out stuff haha

wire cover is red, I got a photo coming

that was what we found from research, all the middle numbers are the same, 17B353, but the front and back are different. Could it be an aftermarket part?

Hey Guys, Started pulling apart the engine bay today so I can get it ready for sanding and came across the brake lines. There are clips holding them on and I am not sure how they work... If anyone knows it would be quite helpful The bit circled in red is it

thanks mate it was to easy, would never of guessed thats how you do it haha

Cool thanks for that, Dad will get new bolts tomorrow as we aren't keen on chamfering the flywheel. Haha definitely wouldn't be doing this, probs wouldn't go down well

Hey Guys, Today Dad and I were going to put the gearbox onto the engine. We ran into the first hurdle though... we have ARP Flywheel bolts #100-2801 and didn't realise till now that they flywheel needs to be chamfered to suit the bolts. Are we able to use the old flexplate bolts instead, I know that they are shorter but if they are put in properly will it matter to much? Thanks