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Posts posted by ```

  3. Posted

    Bit of background..

    I bought two sets of XD Fairmont Ghia interior a few years back..one chocolate brown the other beige/fawn as I was contemplating changing the colour of my car from Silver Grey Metallic to Cinnamon Metallic and wanted the lighter interior.

    Anyway..time has passed and I have decide to stick with the original colour so am going to sell the lighter seats.

    The plastic covers have the locating tabs intact so was going to swap them for the originals on mine and this is where the problem arised!

    So..1st photo is of the seat tilt mechanism from my August 1979 XD Fairmont Ghia

    39245868414_b31d773935_h.jpg

    2nd photo is of the lighter set of seats tilt mechanism

    39245870184_318f42f4f4_h.jpg

    as you can see they are completely different!

    confused by this I checked the 2nd set of brown seats I have (door cards have August 1979 dates stamped on the inside of them) and they are the same as the ones currently in my car!

    Adding to this more, my son has a 1981 XD Falcon GL and his seat tilt mechanisms are the same as the 2nd picture (confused!)

    Are the ones from my car and the spare set I have carry overs from the XC range?

  4. Posted

    Just now, deankdx said:

    Clockwise if you are facing the engine from the front of the car. 

    cheers for that..might seem an obvious, simple question but having never done it before didn't want to risk any possible damage!

    deankxf and Outback Jack reacted to this

  5. Posted

    If I am hand cranking the engine over..which way am I turning it as you look at it from the front..clockwise or anti-clockwise?

    I am going to pull the rocker cover off and try to get the tdc more accurate.

    Outback Jack and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  7. Posted

    Hi all,

    I have changed the aftermarkt electronic distributor on my 1979 xd Fairmont with a Bosch one and am now trying to get the timing/tdc set.

    There are no marks on the harmonic balancer that I can see so have used the 'thumb over the no.1 spark plug hole' method and have moved the rotor arm around to face the no,1 cylinder (as I thought was correct?) but all it now wants to do is spit flames out of the carb when I try to start it!

    37528361990_255893c5bb_h.jpg

    Having searched on the internet it seems that I am setting the distributor/rotor arm in completely the wrong place and that it should be facing roughly to the firewall or slightly towards no.8 cylinder?

    HELP!!!!!

    Outback Jack reacted to this

  10. Posted

    Can someone point me in the right direction for the correct temperature sensor for a 302 Cleveland?

    The VDO catalogue doesn't list one for a V8 1979 XD Falcon/Fairmont, just the 6cyl.

    Is the one listed for the XA/XB/XC series (1972-1979 320.003) the correct one?

    My car is an August 1979 build.

    Pic's below of the part I am refering to.

    36460114441_d979558111_h.jpg

    36460115231_02fb0bc865_h.jpg

  11. Posted

    18 hours ago, bear351c said:

    Yep, thats the one. Fitted to all the old Clevo's.  Mounts under the battery tray, or next to shock tower, usually.

    cheers..will give it a go and see if it solves the problem.

  12. Posted

    On 16/07/2017 at 9:30 PM, Valvebouncer said:

    Either the contacts inside the solenoid arched and welded itself together or there is something wrong with the ignition switch.
    If you pull that green wire off when it's stuck cranking and it stops, it's the ignition barrel.
    OR
    If you give the solenoid a whack with a screwdriver when stuck cranking and it cuts out it's the solenoid

    I have a new starter solenoid I could fit..might give it a try and see what happens.

    Are these any good?

    35913013176_c05d0bfda9_h.jpg

  13. Posted

    Ok..so I got a new Bosch distributor with a built in ignition module and got rid of the old setup.

    Put what i thought was the old starter solenoid back on, new plug leads and success!

    Took it for a drive and whilst it drove ok it still needs sorting out (timing etc..)

    Parked it in the garage until I could get it to a work shop to sort it out for me.

    My son came to visit and hadn't seen it running for quite a while so I tried to start it up..took a couple of cranks and fored but then cut out (oh the joys of no choke).

    So tried to start it up again and it wouldn't fire but the starter just kept on turning even whith the ignition off!!!

    Had to pull the battery leads to stop it from cranking over.

    Any ideas as to what went wrong?

    this is how the setup now looks with what I assume is the starter solenoid on the drivers side shock tower?

    35144750173_70f5a17fcc_h.jpg

    35144743543_52d9f9e909_h.jpg

    35144740373_ce824f5c11_h.jpg

     

  14. Posted

    On 05/06/2017 at 0:15 PM, SPArKy_Dave said:

    you'll find 215/65/14's infinitely easier and cheaper to get these days.

    In Australia maybe..here in New Zealand they are almost impossible to find!

     

    only ones I can find are either Goodyear Assurance (can't find a price) or Maxxis UA603 at $154nzd each!!

  15. Posted

    I currently have 205/70r14 tyres on my Cheviot Turbo's on my '79 XD Fairmont and was trying to find something with a litte bit lower sidewall profile (the 70's are a little bit ballooney if you know what I mean?)

     

    Was thinking of a 205/60 but they are really hard to find in a 14''.

     

    Am happy to go a bit bigger on the width but certainly don't want to go narrower..any suggestions?

  18. Posted

    Coil looks different to my MEC 717, thing just above it looks like starter solenoid. Silver box looks like an energy polarizer...... :blink:

     

    Sorry mate, not helping..

     

    definitely MEC717..is a newer version and a different shape to the older ones.

     

    http://www.sparkshop.co.nz/Catalogue/Product/Product/69MEC717

     

    do you think if I went back to a Bosch electronic distributor with the ignition module built into it I could do away with the other bits on the system ie. the 'starter solinoid and energy polarizer'?

     

    really want to tidy the whole thing up but am certainly no electronics expert (infact,quite the opposite!!).

    bear351c reacted to this

  19. Posted

     The module on the side of the distributor could be on its way out so i would recommend replacing it.

     

    no module on the side of the distributor

     

    am thinking it has a seperate ignition module (far left of picture) and am not sure what the silver box is/does on the drivers side shock tower (I am no expert!)?

     

    turns out the ignition coil is the correct one,just labelled wrong..auto parts shop have tested and has same resistance etc.. as the MEC717

     

    sorry I am having to add a link to the pic, can't upload anything larger than 121kbs which is miniscule!!

     

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/82713055@N08/32865926116/in/dateposted-public/

  20. Posted · Edited by ```

    716 is female and 717 is male i think,i have been through this as well,the problem is these parts places just give it to you because they think ah they all work the same just different numbers,,i sent mine back as well it was for late model mitsubishi,inow have the correct 717,

    717 is the female,standard connection..718 the male connector for the HEI style leads.

     

    http://www.sparkshop.co.nz/Catalogue/Product/Product/69MEC717

     

    I think my main problem is the whole ignition setup is all a bit shit!!

     

    here's a link to my Flickr page and a pic of the engine bay..you will see what I mean!

     

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/82713055@N08/32449537050/in/dateposted-public/

  21. Posted

    MEC717 work well, used them on my Clevo's. As stated, the 'R' in GT40R, is to be used with a ballast resistor and points. Assume you've got electronic dizzy?

     

    Prob be the ign module. I'd say indicators are just a coincidence. Low battery from cranking over.?

     

    Dont know much about the dizzy you linked, but, if it sounds to good to be true, it's probably too cheap to be good,  :)

     

    yeah..electric distributor.

     

    battery has a full charge.

     

    the plot thickens!!..took the coil off and it actually has the model number HEC715 which is for a Ford Telstar 2.0l (1985-87 or Nissan Bluebird 2.0l (1983-85)...wtf???

     

    the other number on the sticker on the coil itself matches the one on the outside of the box which also has MEC717 underneath it..totally confused!

     

    have taken back to the auto shop and they have ordered me a new one so will see what happens when it arrives Monday or Tuesday.

     

    I have real issues trying to upload photo's on here (keeps telling me I can only upload files upto 121kbs which are tiny!!)

     

    anywho!..will try and see if i get one of these and see if I can get the whole ignition system tidied up.

     

    http://www.sparkshop.co.nz/Catalogue/Product/Product/40-364

    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  23. Posted

    Have just replaced the ignition coil on the xd (302 Cleveland) from a Bosch GT40 to a Bosch MEC717.

     

    Car started first pop and was idling really well (best it has sounded since i've owned the car!).

     

    About 10 min's later it started hunting for revs then died.

     

    Tried to start it and it now won't fire!

     

    Turns over fine but just doesn't seem to have any spark..swapped the old coil back in and same issue.

     

    Also noticed that the voltage guage on the dash is now showing 0..wtf?

     

    Left it at that as I was on my way out and went back to it the following day..now I don't have any indicators..again,wtf??

     

    All other dials/lights/horn etc...work..any ideas please?

  24. Posted

    Question for the boffins...

     

    can you use bench seat seat rails for a bucket seat in an XD?

     

    basically what i'm asking is are they the same?

     

    obviously the length of the connection mechanism to release both rails to move the seat back and forth is going to be different but are all the fixings etc...the same?

     

    cheers,

    Liam.

     

  25. Posted

    I have a Weiand intake manifold and Holley 4 barrel carb set up on my 2V Cleveland 302..should I use a valley pan with it or not?

     

    Have recently had the heads rebuilt and hardened valve seats put in and it didn't have one on there when I took the heads off.

     

    Guy at the engine shop said he doesn't use one on his Mustang but was just wondering what opinions are versus yes or no for the valley pan?

     

    cheers,

    Liam.

     

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