judgetread

Chain stretch homey...no never heard of it on a SBF but xflows are bad for it. So set base timimng higher than normal and check where its at when rpm is @ 3000rpm.

Yeh possibly brand new 200 km ago tho but you never know i guess

Maybe time for a quite set of gears :S or a belt set if I can find one

surely it cant be cam flexing its a solid billet cam

Its coming home today till I get it sorted, I guess its till to borrow some parts and eliminate them as I go

yeh 34 at idle, 29 at 6k, then back to 34 at idle

you can watch it retard over 3000 just keeps dropping the harder you rev it...

Wierd bit is if the timing is rock solid, it doesnt waver if you hold steady rpm sp if you hold sa 4k it would have dropped from the idle but itll say steady but go to 5 and another degree will drop out

Well heres the problem, I though Id throw it out there and see if anyone has any ideas or experienced the same thing before.

Car hooked up to a dyno.

Timing is locked and set to 34 ... no mechanical or other advance

As the engine is revved, timing is dropping/retarding itself so at the end of a run its back 5 degrees and 29, some where and somehow something is forcing it to retard so before I throw a bunch of money at it has anyone see this happen before of a sbf?

I know on chev's the cam can walk a bit causing this but dont think its possible with fords and the thrust plate (being checked atm anyways just incase). Have pulled the dizzy out and checked for any play anywhere, put new pins to hold the gear and bearing in it and checked the pickup as well..

So Im starting to suspect the hyfire 685 box? Either cant keep up or faulty somehow, maybe for some stupid reason it thinks theres a map sensor on it or ... coil (did replace it with brand new of same type)  fucks me ,...

interesting I work at capalaba and looking a a carb tune,  better start saving my pennies myself

Couple of options.

1 If you can get hold of a mini sand blaster you can hit them with that to clean them up. Then prime the surface with an epoxy primer.

   EPOXY GOES STRAIGHT OVER BARE METAL NO ETCH PRIMER or anything else.

This is what we usually do ... we use this DTM from valspa  http://www.valsparindustrialmix.com/TDS/au/TDSIME.FP400-FP401.pdf never had a problem or come back yet.

Id get the autosol out and polish it til you can see your teeth in it.

You are talking about tthe piston yeh? not anything else?

or a belt slipping at higher rpm?

sounds like water flowing to fast .... thus not giving the water in the radiator enough time to actually cool down. That would explain why it cools down at idle, slower flows giving the coolant time to cool down

Are you using a high flow thrmostat? maybe go back to a normal one .. or top pulley wrong size?

they run different ways depending on what side of the box they go in, so c4 go in left side, bw right. Using the wrong one will just strip the cogs... been there done that

as blue xe says, the smallest amount is all that is need. It shouldnt even really come out the exhaust if you use the right amount.

But saying that we flog the crap outta alot of panel based air tools and they maybe get oiled once a year :S

Ive been using http://umrengines.com.au/

No complaints, work has always been what I asked for

http://tmr.qld.gov.au/Safety/Driver-guide/Child-restraints/Frequently-asked-questions.aspx

If the car has 1 row of seats only (for example, a single cab ute):

• a child of any age can sit in the front seat if the vehicle has only one row of seats and they are properly restrained. If the vehicle has a passenger airbag fitted, a rearward facing child restraint should not be used if the restraint is positioned close to the airbag.

Depends on the exact case you have . Some are 1/4 if an 80's trans known as a C5 , looks same as C4 though.

If a normal C4 they are 1/8 NPS . There is only one company I know of that does the exact fitting .

Fragola   481671BL or FRA481671BL depending on who has them and how they number their parts .

 

Failing that 1/8NPT and recut the tread to a straight thread and machine for the o'ring is how I've done many

 

Ian Boetcher at Ipswich I believe is a Fragola dealer

Thx mate

Looking at replacing tranny lines to AN fittings.Anyone know for sure whether the oil cooler lines fittings in the box are 1/8 or 1/4 NPS, Im getting conflicting information on the interwebs.

Cam brand stripper is the best if your paint supplier stocks it

Hey mate good choice with going with paint stripper by far the best way.

 

i usually use thinners and scotchy to clean the panel after ive scraped it all off, remember to lay it on thick and leave it on for a good couple hours, let it do the work.

This is how and what we use

Not much help but heres a link to how I got XD,XE,XF fuel gauge to work with ohms based fuel cells fuel senders.

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/4554-0-90ohm-fuel-sender-to-xf-volatge-gauge-project/

there is a metal clip. looks like wire u need to undo. Its a matter of pushing one end and its hinged on the other

The "lag" is deliberately built into the electronics of the gauge to eliminate the effect of the level rising and falling with the fuel sloshing around. You notice this also just after filling up and the gauge takes half a minute or so to get up to the full mark.

Yeh I figure it was like that

Updated first posts with completed project

Ok, finally got time to do some more on this.

Hooked it up to a fuel cell, and it is working well. Seems the xf digital dash lags by about 5-7 seconds, so i guess the dash gauge updates itself every 5-10 seconds, which seems normal and fine.

Trying to get all the stuff packed into a project box all neat and secure today, but between the nrl, cricket and v8's its hard to find the time to get it all done

well had some issues, couldnt get enough current through to the gauge when hooked up, or so I thought ...

The 1k resistor was to high compared to the cars resistance, so bridging them pads on R2 and all seems to be working atm. But dark now to do a final test but was able get full and half tank to show at the correct ohms resistance.

With many thanks to someone else for the help working that out.

Ill get it all together and pics, then maybe a new electronics project?? 8 - 6 tacho convertor, and i know there are commercially available.

maybe but its a digital dash

I guess ill see soon enough, its i can make it a simple plug and play setup, either way I just want to play around and have original fuel gauge working

I always hated soldering SMD's even with paste they are a pain in the arse.

Haa yeh, my first time working with em, normally use the old through hole. Was interesting using a jewelers loop just to see the solder joins and how they sat

Im going out to the shed today to try it out on the xf, so we'll see if it works or not I might have to make adjustments to compensate for wiring resistance and voltage drop to the gauge, but ill find out very soon

Awesome. You might find a few folks on here who would be interested in this conversion, if only for the fact that stock senders don't like modern fuels.

I guess it would work for any sender that uses a resistances based system, even lpg? I never had any commercial plans, but if people are interested I could put into a case and post.

Without working it out I guess it uses about 4-5$ in parts to make + the $1 board maybe less

So, finally got around to making a case for it all, and a few pictures.

Adding some standoffs for the pcb to sit on

pcb clipped in, I also made another board this time soldering the wires directly to the board. Easier, cheaper and less stuff to go wrong.

A hole on the bottom of the case, where you can adjust the trimpot. Remebering its a 90ohms difference you can set the range with it so like 0-90 or 7-97 or 8-98 etc.

Finished box

Just as a size comparison to a standard 9volt battery.

Overall, everything worked out pretty well, except I doubt id do a SMD component project again. Well maybe for the resistors and caps, but not the IC, they are just way to small and a pain to do.

I have everything to set it up done now, I just need to install the fuel cell and hook it up but that may be awhile or may not

Edit: I just did a quick sticker to wrap around it. well cause I was bored