judgetread

could be, ive wound it out as much as I can of the caliper.

Ok, so firstly  I was changing wheels and noticed a bight purple circular marking on one of my rear disc's. You can just see it in the pic below but in real life it was bight purple

Ok, so Id just come back from willowbank and thought, maybe the burnouts where a tad to big and heated the disc so I replaced both sides discs and pads. After following the run in procedure and driving about 40k the discs have started to do the exact same thing again!

Its hard too see but its marking then in pretty much the same spot as before. looks slightly rusty as car hasnt been driven in a week or two. the inner part of the disc barely looks like its been touched.

Also after a drive this one wheel/rim is hotter than the other rims, so I guess is dragging a bit. Also there is a weird clicking noise from that side when you take your foot off the brake pedal?

Anyone have any ideas on where or what I should look into next?

Pump cam only really takes care of the shooters when you mash the pedal, Id look else where first as other factors have a bigger influence of it then the pump cams.

Firstly, does it bog or hesitate? too different things, could be not enough fuel or to much fuel. Does it do it when you mash the pedal only or when a steady increase is applied? Does it surge at light pedal? or when it stumbles  does lifting you foot off a little clear it up? Does it blow black smoke at any point driving it?

Figure out what it doing, raise or lower the float firstly and see it helps or worse. Floats can have a big influence on the way it drives and behaves. Then look at the powervalve, you may need to bring it on sooner or later, again depends on what its doing now.

Got this sorted!

Turned out to be a electrically issue somewhere, removed all the wiring and ignition setup and replaced it all with a 6al-2 programmable, rewired everything.

Timing is rock solid again.

Thanks again all for the input!

It works the other way around, set your dizzy to max advance then you remove timing through the 6al programmable. Weird but Im sure thats how it works with that box

< has neutral balanced windsor scat crank, so maybe not a factory issue but for aftermarket purposes?

hook me up on the programmable mate Id like to replace the 685 anyways

They usually dont have cam walk but  its possible if wrong thrust plates are used, for the price of a gasket the peace of mind in checking it will be worth it

How good of a fit was the cam gear on the crank? Was it nice and tight going on? Was the key way tight?

 

Sounds like it is time for a programmable ignition if all that checks out, or perhaps swap out all the ignition components and see if the problem still exists? Process of elimination.

Yeh it all went together nicely, got hold of another distributor to swap tomorrow and try( Ive done alot to the current one basically replaced every part, take endplay out completely, swap gears to a melonized distributor gear, reset pickup, checked all bearing etc etc) still no go.

Ive swapped out ignition box with a msd 6al, though maybe the 2 step was doing some funky shit but didnt make a difference.

Ive spoken and seen alot of tuners over the past few days and 1/3 say its the ignition box, 1/3 say dizzy and 1/3 go fucks me maybe cam walk lol

I know a new dizzy with mechanical advance will combat the problem, it should advance as it retards but regardless of out come timing covers coming off weekend or early next week for a peace of mind check, maybe wrong thrust plate and cam gear  chewed it out a bit or plate retaining bolts have come loose? either way im going to check it out, doesnt cost much for a timing cover gasket ...

main concern is initial would be 39 and box can only take 10 out at cranking speed and it was kicking back on starter at willowbank when it was warm at 34

na its 5 still man made a error reading it

the dizzy gear is the bronze gear to suit cam, but now im at a complete dead end ...

still fucked took all the endplay out of dizzy still retarding

Going tp swap pickups now and try other wise ...............................................

Edit : Actually its only like 2 degrees now :S maybe cam gear is funky?

Edit 2: Miss read it, still 5 degree's

yep, ill take the endplay out of it tomorrow and try again crank trigger would be great ...

yeh im going to go find some shims and try again

well fucks me ..... what about as suggested add programmable and do some weird timing maps lol

or set it at 34 whenever it stop retarding and using the nos retard feature hooked up to starter to give it some more start restart

Nah just bush the dizzy and adjust base timing and it will be fine.Be surprised at how much you gain/loose??? by taking end float out of the dizzy. 

It needs play to expand when warm but yeh?

Well msd 6al didnt help it

checked end play and reinstalled definitely still retarding although its all happens quicker than I expected. From idle to 2.5k is back 5 degrees. I thought it was happening later in the rpms but its not.

Will swap over the cdi next and see else might have to rip cover off and check chain/thrustplate

scrap that, it 18 tho end play

ok so end play is 30 tho so its a little large but not overly big.

thx sly much appreciate it!!! ill check it out tomorrow

Hey dude, what's it like with locked timing? So you have it set at 34 degrees from start up?<br /><br />

yeh its ok

Ignition box has a 10 degree retard on start so it start pretty good.

I'll ask Smithy if he has any small weezors that suffer from chain stretch. Don't panic about or think it's buggared cos it is very common in xflows ay. 

Yeh thanks mate

Not stressed, its pretty safe retarding like that, if it was advancing id be worried

got a pic of the HP output but cant seem to get it off me phone Considering the issues and hasnt been jetted  yet its not to bad ...

yeh they dont believe its anything to do with cam/chain more likely pickup or iginition box. They've let me a msd box to try and they are going to get a dizzy to me try ...

Hmmm, If you HAVE to eliminate this then IMO the best (and cheapest) option would be computer advance? Add a degree of timing every 700rpm above 3krpm.

Yeh thats a possibility, rather find the cause tho

Its estimated to be possibly losing 20-30 hp from this issue pita but that cars for you