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judgetread

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Posts posted by judgetread

  4. Posted

    Here's my 2 cents :D

    • As @everyone has stated, get the timing right, a retarded timing can heat up a engine pretty quick. 
    • Make sure your AF ratio / mixtures are right, leaner mixture means more oxygen in cylinders = hotter burn = hotter engine temps -- Try fatten it up a little see if it cools down. 
    • Make sure all air pockets are out of the block, It can take a fair while idling without a cap to burp all the air out. Fill from the highest point in the cooling system as possible.
    • Maybe some crap has blocked the radiator. Are they the same radiator hoses as before the build/swap? Were they clean or any chance you may have dislodged some crusties from the hoses when removing fitting em back?
    • Has the idle speed changed much between engines? Same waterpump/crank pulleys?
    • What fans are you running? sounds like they are electric, when do you have them coming on?

    I may be wrong, if head gasket was incorrect you'd see more extensive heat issues?

  6. Posted

    On 1/24/2018 at 9:20 AM, CHESTNUTXE said:

    how hard is it to tap the p/s colum down to fit non p/s like does the colom need to come out ? or can it be done still bolted to the car ?

    You mean to get the center of the steering column shaft down from a p/s to non-p/s one?

    I did it, removed the box, put a slide hammer on the end of it and gave it a few good pulls :D came out pretty easy. No need to unbolt anything if I recall.

    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  9. Posted

    Thats a lot more load on the factory shock mounting position, do they supply new mounting brackets/pressings with the coilovers?

    Also do the lower mounts clear the spring perches no worries?

     

    They they clear the spring perch fine.

    The top shocker towers have had a 6 mm plate welded across the top to stiffen it up.

     

    These came off a burnout car (coilovers and towers) so they've had a hard life :D

    ando76 reacted to this

  11. Posted

    spoke to mcdonalds racing about the coil over in the rear issue - reckons he should have somthing that will work - would require converting to eye and running a bar with 2 bolts across the top thou - easy done really - going to go down in a few weeks to see what hes got that will work 

     

    check out mine were done, loads easier and not mods to diff or top mounts needed

    IMG_20160413_0739551_zpsqfcah3os.jpg

     

    The bottom eyelets bolt straight upto the original shocker mount location with spacers each side to centre em.

    The top have a bracket  around the eylet and a bolt going upwards.

    Crazy2287, X-Taxi and SirkWhyXF reacted to this

  16. Posted

    few things to keep in mind..

     

    The roller may not have a fuel pump cam installed, and even may not have the slot in the timing cover for the mech fuel pump.

    Depending on the setup, water pump rotation could be a issue so make sure you get the all sorted too..

     

    Unless its a retro fit roller :D

    xwroo reacted to this

  18. Posted

    They will bolt up fine, but as NZXD said, gt40p heads and almost all aftermarket heads have the spark plug angle changed and number 3 plug lead will catch fire :D Dont ask how I know lol

     

    Either multi angle boots or 90 degree plug leads will fix that. Personally I had the number 3 pipe moved a little so clearance would be a problem.

    slydog reacted to this

  22. Posted

    its should all be compatible. Only advice I can say is if its 2k clear over acrylic you have too "MUST" let the acrylic

     dry out completely before clearing over it.

     

    Remember its 2 completely different systems, acrylic basically evaporates the thinners in the drying process whilst the 2k is a chemical drying reaction. If there is any trace of solvents still in the acrylic

     it will try to come through  the 2k and react. Been there way way way... way too many times ....

     

    Any pics of the reaction?

    MNTL.XD reacted to this

  24. Posted

    well no news yet except piston and handbrake move freely. May have been the rubber around the piston was stick behind the inside pad and pushing everything out of wack, so will be getting a rebuild done this week to be sure as the rubbers rooted anyways. Also have replacement plate the caliper bolts to just in case its bent.

     

    So while nothing was found to be the exact problem, just going to try throw new everything at it I can.

     

    Also  while I was there pulled the axle for a spline and bearing check and all's good there.

    bear351c reacted to this
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