judgetread

So, finally got around to making a case for it all, and a few pictures. Adding some standoffs for the pcb to sit on pcb clipped in, I also made another board this time soldering the wires directly to the board. Easier, cheaper and less stuff to go wrong. A hole on the bottom of the case, where you can adjust the trimpot. Remebering its a 90ohms difference you can set the range with it so like 0-90 or 7-97 or 8-98 etc. Finished box Just as a size comparison to a standard 9volt battery. Overall, everything worked out pretty well, except I doubt id do a SMD component project again. Well maybe for the resistors and caps, but not the IC, they are just way to small and a pain to do. I have everything to set it up done now, I just need to install the fuel cell and hook it up but that may be awhile or may not Edit: I just did a quick sticker to wrap around it. well cause I was bored

After designing the boards, I searched around and found a absolute great deal to have to pcb's made for me, I sent the Gerber files ( files the pcb board making place needs) to a board manufacturer and for a massive $9.90usd including postage have 10 pcb's boards made to the designs. The only down side with getting these made so cheap, was the wait time. From sending the gerber's in to receiving the boards was just on 4 weeks wait but for $9.90 I cant complain. The boards come etched, silk screened, padded, and solder masked, really trying to do this myself would of been just a nightmare, the boards only meassure 5cm x 2.7cm to start with , then trying to etched the smd pads on the op amp would never of happened, so Im a happy chap. Now, I admit my first time using SMD's components and well it wasn't that much fun soldering them to the board, using 0805's was bad enough soldering, the stupid op-amp pin pitch was crazy to solder, but in the end I got through it Sorry about the bad pictures, camera on phone has crapped it and well these components are so friggin small. With the board together time for a test. Hooked it up to a DMM and a bread board and after playing around with the trim pot to fine tune out any tolerance in components all seems pretty good. Hooked up with 3 ohms resistance, give out a 0.2 volts result Hooked up to 90 ohms resistance puts out 4.21 volts By adjusting the trim pot, was able to get 7-97 ohms resistors working as well, so a sender with 7-97ohm should work too.

Wouldnt be too hard to make something up the same but longer if needed tbh it changes all the time on what we use. We just ring one or two of our suppliers and grab whatever they suggest for whatever we are doing. ME, id just spray some sort of self priming rust remover that doesnt need removing then fish oil it, or even just fish oil it. When I did my xf some 89 years ago I just fish oiled inside every panel still not a spot of rust after all this time.

there is a real simple way to spray in there witha cavity hos e attached to a spray gun like, look at the hose in the picture http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BODY-DEADENER-GUN-UNDERBODY-COATING-GUN-AIR-OPERATED-WITH-CAVITY-SPRAY-TUBE-/251560971817?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a9233ce29 the hose is basicallt blocked at the end, and has afew holes on the sides towards the end where it sprays out in a pattern all the way around. We use them all the time at work, and basically just spam the crap in there till it drips out everywhere

I suppose the water pump runs backs wards to normal Windsors, else id say just stick a stock crank and pump pully on it to get home. But ud have to change the water pump too

have you checke/replaced thermostat? Usually when that conditions occurs, hot in town/cool at speed its because thermostats been removed (water flowing to fast, and not having time to cool) or not enough air flow from fans. the el thermo fans will help alot, we'll I used them a few times and really like them.

they barely fit under. but they are 60 series tyres so they are 28" tall

convo's 15 x 8.5 with 5inch BS, running 275x60x15 MT street's. Actually going to put them up for sale, done 400-500kms in as new condition, never seen water/rain, $1900

2pac over acrylic works fine as long as you give the acrylic time to let all the solvents dry out first,issue is the 2pac clear is a chemical process which doesnt allow the solvent to evporate from the acrylic, then all the shit hits the fan when it can dry out right.. But saying that there is really really no need these days to do that. Base isnt that expensive unless your going grp 3 or some crazy mica/peal stuff in it. acrylic is more forgiving for the novice and I have nothing against it, but then I used it for 20 years before switching to 2pac 8-9 years ago so im a little bias septone paint, hmmm never used it and doubt id do it even in your case. When I think of septone i think of underbody black or some crap not finish paint. Try get something a little better even concept or duxon, dupont something. Sure you can get it from feebay or somewhere.