judgetread

yeh they dont believe its anything to do with cam/chain more likely pickup or iginition box. They've let me a msd box to try and they are going to get a dizzy to me try ...

Yeh thats a possibility, rather find the cause tho Its estimated to be possibly losing 20-30 hp from this issue pita but that cars for you

Yeh possibly brand new 200 km ago tho but you never know i guess Maybe time for a quite set of gears :S or a belt set if I can find one

surely it cant be cam flexing its a solid billet cam Its coming home today till I get it sorted, I guess its till to borrow some parts and eliminate them as I go

yeh 34 at idle, 29 at 6k, then back to 34 at idle you can watch it retard over 3000 just keeps dropping the harder you rev it... Wierd bit is if the timing is rock solid, it doesnt waver if you hold steady rpm sp if you hold sa 4k it would have dropped from the idle but itll say steady but go to 5 and another degree will drop out

interesting I work at capalaba and looking a a carb tune, better start saving my pennies myself

This is what we usually do ... we use this DTM from valspa http://www.valsparindustrialmix.com/TDS/au/TDSIME.FP400-FP401.pdf never had a problem or come back yet.

You are talking about tthe piston yeh? not anything else?

or a belt slipping at higher rpm?

sounds like water flowing to fast .... thus not giving the water in the radiator enough time to actually cool down. That would explain why it cools down at idle, slower flows giving the coolant time to cool down Are you using a high flow thrmostat? maybe go back to a normal one .. or top pulley wrong size?

they run different ways depending on what side of the box they go in, so c4 go in left side, bw right. Using the wrong one will just strip the cogs... been there done that

as blue xe says, the smallest amount is all that is need. It shouldnt even really come out the exhaust if you use the right amount. But saying that we flog the crap outta alot of panel based air tools and they maybe get oiled once a year :S

Looking at replacing tranny lines to AN fittings.Anyone know for sure whether the oil cooler lines fittings in the box are 1/8 or 1/4 NPS, Im getting conflicting information on the interwebs.

Ive been using http://umrengines.com.au/ No complaints, work has always been what I asked for

http://tmr.qld.gov.au/Safety/Driver-guide/Child-restraints/Frequently-asked-questions.aspx If the car has 1 row of seats only (for example, a single cab ute): a child of any age can sit in the front seat if the vehicle has only one row of seats and they are properly restrained. If the vehicle has a passenger airbag fitted, a rearward facing child restraint should not be used if the restraint is positioned close to the airbag.

Thx mate

This is how and what we use

Not much help but heres a link to how I got XD,XE,XF fuel gauge to work with ohms based fuel cells fuel senders. http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/4554-0-90ohm-fuel-sender-to-xf-volatge-gauge-project/

there is a metal clip. looks like wire u need to undo. Its a matter of pushing one end and its hinged on the other

Yeh I figure it was like that Updated first posts with completed project

Ok, finally got time to do some more on this. Hooked it up to a fuel cell, and it is working well. Seems the xf digital dash lags by about 5-7 seconds, so i guess the dash gauge updates itself every 5-10 seconds, which seems normal and fine. Trying to get all the stuff packed into a project box all neat and secure today, but between the nrl, cricket and v8's its hard to find the time to get it all done

well had some issues, couldnt get enough current through to the gauge when hooked up, or so I thought ... The 1k resistor was to high compared to the cars resistance, so bridging them pads on R2 and all seems to be working atm. But dark now to do a final test but was able get full and half tank to show at the correct ohms resistance. With many thanks to someone else for the help working that out. Ill get it all together and pics, then maybe a new electronics project?? 8 - 6 tacho convertor, and i know there are commercially available.

maybe but its a digital dash I guess ill see soon enough, its i can make it a simple plug and play setup, either way I just want to play around and have original fuel gauge working

Haa yeh, my first time working with em, normally use the old through hole. Was interesting using a jewelers loop just to see the solder joins and how they sat

Im going out to the shed today to try it out on the xf, so we'll see if it works or not I might have to make adjustments to compensate for wiring resistance and voltage drop to the gauge, but ill find out very soon I guess it would work for any sender that uses a resistances based system, even lpg? I never had any commercial plans, but if people are interested I could put into a case and post. Without working it out I guess it uses about 4-5$ in parts to make + the $1 board maybe less