clevocortina

Hahaha I only assumed painter since your reply was so intelligent and informative, very much the way a painter would prep a car. all the beaters I've worked with would be all like, "80 grit that shit in all damaged areas and bog the hell out of dents and end up with terrible edges etc"

^This guy knows what's up.... Anyone would think he was a painter or something

Gotta say im with Ants on that one just paint it bro

Hey Guys I recently had to change over a steering wheel in an AU and noticed the air bag/ horn pad was filthy and sticky, I want to scrub this up as I think its all just years of sweat and grime but don't want to drown the air bag itself. Thus my question can you remove the soft pad from the air bag assembly with out damaging anything or unraveling the airbag? BTW the centre is still out of the car

Your a genius Rob that look's awesome!

using the yellow G101 cleaner from auto smart Ants will probably know what im talking about

yeah boys its out of the car and is taking several scrubbings with degreaser to get clean and its still sticky like eewwwwww sticky lol

Is she done yet?

nice write up Robdog rating your work bro!

Id say save 5 grand then go see a few joints

Ok so those wheel's / hubcaps you see on some fords XR - XY. there chrome and the hubcap sits flush with the wheel nuts. I think there for 14 inch rims? I know I'm not giving much away but I cant find the words to explain it better.

That's the ticket would be a cool look for my xr lowerd with those hubcaps with redwall tyres

There the ones! thank's guys I have always liked them definatly cool looking on the right car

I believe there GS?

devilbiss are a good gun

Yeah man should be the 1.4 will be good for top coat 2pak the 1.5 and 1.8 will work for acrylic and the 1.8 is also a good size for a primer gun in either 2k or acrylic

So to explain from eairler Flash off just means when the paint is dryed out enough to apply the next coat as in the top is tack but its still wet underneath. as in 5 - 10 mins between coats is the flash off time.

yeah man steel pot is ok just its a bit harder to check how much paint you have left in the pot, with plastic you can see from the outside, 1.4 will still put acrylic on badly for some reason it likes a larger tip even though its really thin HVLP is fine and infact will use less material and they have better transfer efficiency meaning more is going on the job and less is misting in a cloud around it, hvlp is also better at atomizing the paint and make metallic lay down nicer and eaiser then a conventional rp gun. but wil put solids and clear on a bit more peely.. but that's not really a problem if your going acrylic since youll be fully rubbing and cutting it anyway.

Get a cheapie from bunnings or eBay there all pretty good when there new and get a 1.8 or there abouts tip size

Lol yeah I get a bit carried away when people start talking paint since its about the only subject I can speak about with decent knowledge hahaha If you like mcfly I can put up a glossary of terms? I don't mind ill do it tonight when I get home from work

Hey mcfly sorry about previous reply I made a small error whit tip sizing 1.5 will be fine with acrylic, any smaller and you may find it difficult to apply you clear. Paulson yeah man it would've turned out fine but gloss will be a little affected and if you were to be doing a blend its definatly not something you would want as it will be putting colour right up to the edge Campo I do wet on wet pretty much everyday and it has perfect adhesion and with many systems today with new panels you don't even have to rub them the chemical makup of the new style primers is made to stick to the un prepped e coat. It's all for time and material saving really. With wet on wet you thin the primer out at least double the normal amount so it goes on nice and flat and after its flashed its ready to go. Also if you find you do need to rub the basecoat because you have found defects E.G runs, massive dust lumps, bugs, silicone. just blow it with air or heat gun until you can touch it then rub with 800 wither wet or dry, and then you can keep going with applying base.

Any area you have etched will need to be primed with either hifill or surface as paint dosn't stick as well to bare etch, also with any rust pitts, holes, etc wire wheel the absolute shit out of them and use rust converter then use the fiberglass as you have done, you will still need to apply normal filler over the top as Glass leave large pin hole and craters that primer just cant fill, even though it's called hifill its build still isn't that thick. Then block all primed areas with 240 or 320 dry if you like then 600 - 800 wet. on your blend panel's/ area just use either 1000 or grey scotchbrite to scuff up the clear you DO NOT want to go through to colour as this defeats the purpose of doing blends, With your guards / bonnet if they are new as in just in black e coat you will need to prime them before you paint them, I'm asumming you can wet on wet it like we do with 2pak which means you just prep the panel and apply primer then colour then clear in one go. The gun your were speaking of is good for primer but the tip size is to large for top coat you want a 1.3 - 1.4 for top coat and spray pressure at 1.5 - 2 bar (22 - 29) psi. you will need a blending agent for the blend panels so the metallic lays down evenly and dosnt sit up in the sanding marks, any paint shop will be able to understand what you need for this procedure. also you do not rub the base before applying clear. that's all i can think of at the moment

Nah man diesel or any other oil or whatever is fine since your only going to use it to free the motor up by hand when you can spin it fully and its all free probably a few rotations just to be sure, dump the oil chuck in fresh and start it up.

Hi all I read an article online, about a 418 inch stroker 351 Windsor combo, 670 hp, pump fuel, easy to build at home ect. 8k in parts u.s. Between my dads 35 years of mechanical experience and my enthusiasm we could build the whole thing in the shed. My question is, would it be value for money in Australian dollars or would I be better doing a clevo combo? I know this sort of horsepower cost around 22 grand at an engine shop. so 8 grand and a whole heap of elbow grease sounds far better to me, this engine will be for my xr project so Windsor will be kinda cool. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0702phr_budget_418ci_windsor/

and yeah I know there not supposed to rev but that sweet noise that comes out of those pipes at that rpm is something you cant beat