SLO247

Isn't it a Nissan XFN? The tripmeter and odometer run off a gear that usually has its teeth stripped off. Replacements are about $10 on ebay and readily available, also easy to swap in! Keep an eye on that wiring. Damage like that is caused by big current or a fire. Make sure all the fuses etc are correct too.

Plugs straight in. As long as the XG has smartlock it should just work. Gains BBM/thermofan control too.

I'd pull it out and check the heater core. Aren't the AC lines different too? Won't matter if you aren't using that.

Its just a shock to see someone mention using them. On a car. Not for scrap. Haha.

Shit. My bad.

Aren't XC and earlier ones similar as well? Good to know the Mustang ones fit. I'll order a new set for the ZK when the time comes.

XD onwards is a bit smaller in the bay isn't it?

No roller rockers on any E7 head Windsor. You can still make good power with boost from what I've read. You should be able to clean them up too.

Thats how it works. Theres a coil mounted under the pulley that pulls it on. I've swapped over a coil/pulley/clutch on one. Bit annoying but can be done. You will want good circlip pliers.

I think the plugs are the same for the switches. Just fit the smartlock bypass/j3 and plug in the xf ign switch. Done!

Could I get away with just an aerochamber on an AU 5.0? Standard manifolds and cats still.

Just make sure you have the later floorpan. Mines an 88 and still has the old one so the EA onwards seats wont bolt straight in. A manual XF console without the console bin mounts and front mounts broken off would be worth a bit, hard to find.

You still need a tap on it. Haha. Should work fine with a tap.

Just swap them all. Rip them all out of the XF and throw them in the bin. Take them all from the XG labeling as you go and fit them all to the XF. Look at it this way; strip the XF shell and reshell the XG into it. Just fit everything. You will need to anyway for it all to work.

Damn.

The factory tint is pale green with anti sun etchings on the glass. I'm not sure if they all had it or just the up spec models. I don't think my ute does. Sounds like you have aftermarket tint that needs to come off to pass inspection. Obviously all the real police work has been done. They've solved every crime in SA!

Might be time to start checking looms? Starting with the dash one. Theres a major ground below the tweeter cover panel in the centre.

Yep!

One of those trailers will be fine as long as its one of the big tandem ones. The weight rating is more to do with the lack of electric brakes I'd say. Just tow it with a suitable car and use some big fucking straps on it. It would probably be around 1500kg. Look it up on redbook.

I'd much rather move it in one piece. Then strip it at home at your leisure.

Have you tried another BEM/BCM? I think they had them back then. I know the smartlock module was seperate to it in EB/ED. Does it have the standard stereo or an aftermarket one? If its aftermarket I'd be checking the wiring and making sure its not grounded wrong or anything weird like that. The CRT LP circuit goes through the radio loom and can cause problems if theres any weird wiring happening.

I shouldn't have too much trouble with the electrical side if I go that way. Just wondering how your gears line up with the indicator on the console?

Cruisy. That means you could get away with a carby on it too if you wanted. Just interested as I have a ZK and I've been thinking about driveline options. I thought they cared what year too, from what I read of yours it was an 83? They stopped the V8s in 82 so thats another bonus for you. Mines an 82 so I guess it wouldn't matter either way. What did you do about the auto shifter? I want to keep the console all standard. Where did you mount the ECU? Much trouble getting the looms matched up? Did you use a smartlock bypass or J3 chip?

So you havent had to take it to regency? And its still regoed? Just changed engine number and changed to 8 cylinders? Sounds too easy!

You had to inform the rego office or regency?