Banno

All good mate. Best of luck with front end. Any more problems there be someone in the club that will be most willing to help you with.

You can get 1-5/16" sockets from TotalTools. Save alot of heart ache that you seem to be suffering now not exactly cheap around $20-$30 i think for a sidchrome but should have generic brands. Pretty sure the wheel locking nut for the bearings are the same sized too. To be honest i learnt from younger days from doing it the hard way without the correct tools. It always ended me costing more than what it wouldve been with right tool.

Yeah it be imperial then. Wasn't sure with xf as most things are metric. Try with large shifter to get off but putting on would be better with a socket.

1-5/16th" pretty sure or 32mm but a tight fit on nut. But I maybe wrong though, someone here should be able to correct if wrong.

Make alot of tractor and small commercial cylinder heads out of China.Do other passenger cars but didnt know they did any Australian cars. Maybe one offs or maybe manufacture here for a short time. Pretty sure they are not an asian company but just manufacture there. Any good who knows most things are made there now so it wouldnt matter

Your call but Slydog right. Delete the module out the equation and one less thing to worry about that stops working making the distributor more simple Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

214/214 is CM251. Don't know what CM250 specs are but is a standard camshaft replacement

Hi All, Are the XE model exhaust manifold bolts 3/8 in size and where would be the best place to get them? Cheers

Installed a streetfire ignition tonight. Wired as per instruction but using mag pick up using XE distributor at present. Wired small spade to green and large spade to voilet. Car starts runs for 30 seconds or so then stops as if key turned off. Distributor good as only been driving around previous day. What have I missed?

Quick question guys. I know this will differ from engine to engine combo. But what spark plug gaps are you running from factory settings. I have my ignition up and running and tuning it from what works and what doesn't since the engine now behaves in such different manner. Must say big difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay just end this. Wired the MSD back up and with wire around coil lead as before for signal to relay and no problems fired up and ran great. Seems nice and strong with great idle. Went for good drive so far so good.Though only a temporary fix its up and going. Now just to run a wire from tacho wire to dash and it be up working again. Champagne showers all round!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay this ones got me. Spoke to my old man about the wiring? He suggested to wind wire around the coil lead and plug into trigger line and see how that goes. Now everything back how it was except MSD coil. Fuck me the car started and ran probably better than originally. Only don't have tacho but least of my worries. Walk around the car a few times repeatingWTF!!! Anyway if it ran this way should run with ignition box. Try it tomorrow. Old man still useful yet! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am under the impression by the manual that that only wires that go to the coil are the orange and black. Unless someone has done it that way before without frying the relay by just using the negative I would like to hear. At the moment I am thinking about using the warning light on the alternator to close relays as I am sure Diesel engines do the same Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well that's the end of that. No way around it other than a MSD tach adaptor and that's no guarantee either. So it back how it was original and the only thing MSD in it is the coil. So I leave it now and decide what direction I take. Unfortunely no relay system such as gas etc that require negative trigger can be done by any MSD tach wire box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah it's the old jetronic efi system. I run the car straight gas and maintained original wiring to do so. I reckon I working out what's happening is the original efi relay recieves a pulse to stay closed from the negative coil to run engine once started but cause it now runs off the grey msd tacho wire the signal for it is not right. That can be fixed but the lpg relay lockoffs also require the same signal and that's where the problem is at. I am at a loss to fix that problem without making it safe other than purchasing a msd tach adaptor. Unless someone else has an answer or solution it be great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know not the CDI box. I have wired it what I think is correct or how it is meant to by instructions. What I am thinking is that the car is originally efi using a tachometric relay which requires a coil pulse from the negative on the coil to keep that relay closed to run car. Now that I ran nothing but orange and black wire and nothing else so no longer recieves a signal. That wire is now connected through tach wire on CDI box. The only thing that shoots this theory is that tacho works so therefore it should be the signal Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you got under the car and and wound the tensioner off. Even with hinge bolts slacken the compressor wont move till the tensioner is wound out. I hope this makes sense you will see it soon as you get under car and look up at compressor.

Well I got hold of 2nd hand set that were rather good nick considering some I seen that were looking rather rusted. Ford eb ed are getting rather thin on the ground these days for decent parts. Ford ef el au are common. Anyway I find out at what they are at a bolt shop in geelong they have been rather good for things like this that are at correct specs as factory. I will be using the factory set though. Got them now.

Does anyone know the bolt size for the tailshaft flange to diff is. Putting an e-series diff into the xe and thought replace bolts with new ones Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

THanks Gerg, All I know is that its a 15mm nut and 18mm bolt. Pitch wise or size I am not sure. But I will found out and post it so this dosent become a dead end thread with no answer to it. Add to the ozfalcon library of answers. Just need some time, as flat out with work.

Sorry flat flange and also add that I dont have the bolts for the the flange. Otherwise I would take one into the bolt shop to measure.

Thanks Gerg I always thought it was to do with ground but didn't know what or where from. Wonder what causes the voltage drop then? Wiring? Dash? Resistance? Cheers

Sorry hi-jack thread but what causes volt meter to flick with brake or indicator when applied? And how to fix problem

Hahahahahahaha!

Ah right. Well look foward to see results. Yep if the neighbour dosent start discipline dog now it will be at it with a lawn mower starting up. Not the dogs fault either but owners.