Banno

Not many things can be added to this age old question but the easiest and simplest answer is pull the engine. All honesty you can do better sealing job with it out, fix other problems such as welch plugs(which I am sure are original) or rear seal while its out with easy access. From what I see from your posts you have the equipment and know how. Better than crawling around under a car with fuck all room and still have to lift engine high enough to clear pan out from oil pump. I did a sump gasket in one of my cars awhile back in and out in a day and was glad to do it that way. Nice and dry with out a hint of oil. Its one of them cbf jobs but I just bit the bullet. Should have done this myself but while your at it put up thread of you doing to help others would be good cause its been good reading your XE build. But thats up to you

the red one is for air con and works inconjunction with the electrical soleniod. When Air con turned on it powers up soleniod valve to open manifold vacuum metered to the distributor to up the timing to prevent over heating and bad idle. If your not running air con dont bother with it. As for the other I think it is for vacuum on webber carby as is temperature operated to act at various temps. think to richen. Not sure if required on V8 depends on carby.

read somewhere in melbourne can supply parts or service but thats extent of my knowledge of them. Didnt know much about them here in australia compared with impco or gasresearch sought steered clear of them thinking parts could be an issue. Long time ago now so things could be different now.

http://oldwww.kme.eu/EN_autogaz1.html European brand? Don't know much about them so I cant comment other than like gasrearch from what I gather

Use a T5 cross member and spin it 180 degrees will line up with a C4. It does with a XF and pretty sure XG the same.

Sorry dude I couldn't much help. There was something different about it or the way it comes together cause they in three pieces, that for the life of me I can't remember. How short is it?

Did you use the XG counter lever under car that pulls cable in or the original xf one cause they are different. I had to change over the whole lot when I put a e-series diff in cause same problem. From memory I used the original lever and wouldn't work so used e-series and no problem. Long ago when I did that and memory is really fading.

Correct, driving lights for the ghia are to the light switch on left in the dash. Bosch spotties /fog lamps are same type of switch used but go down next to boot release at fuse panel and wired as such that only go on with ignition on.

Actually which switch are you using on the dash? Left hand side or the right hand side. They both have similar pictures but one on the left is for spot light/ hi beam and that only clicks once and won't run without Li beam on but works when pull stork manually Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check earths first for lo- beam headlights at passengers side radiator support near radiator cap as well as earths at battery for any that have been forgotten to be hooked up if battery ever be replaced they are sensitive to earths. They dont run any relays for Lo-Hi beam in Xe except for the spot lights on Ghia lights and thats a seperate wiring loom. I ran relays for my xe ghia for Lo and high seperately and it improved the brightness. Age of the wiring etc creates resistances and lose amps and voltage. If that checks out get a mult-meter and check for power at switch. Yellow is power. Red with Black stripe is lo-beam . When switch is out it runs power to horn,turn signal,lights dip connector which also runs out to dash lights lo-beam etc There is a fuse at battery and a circuit breaker in the fuse box but if you are getting high beam then there be power. Sounds like the switch is faulty though ? Hope that make sense without photos but if not someone here should know more

Yep that works but it wears the tyre on the edge but it will steer awesome though. Need to go to proper suspension joint that know what they are doing not a tyre service place cause they have a tendency of either going to far or nothing at all. The shock travel/bump stop wont change though. Problem is the x-series suspension geometry is all wrong going real low. Drop spindles etc the only way to go to do it right

Wheel turned and hitting driveway at angle -perfect combination for a tyre and guard bash. Spend most of time remembering to hit driveways either straight on or having wheel straight then turn once into driveway. Or once and once only bellied the car . Not the kids or wife said one thing it was complete silence other than the faint whimpering and the word 'FUCK' from me.

I have low and no issues. Check the wreckers for falcons even if they are utes they often have lows in the fronts, save money getting the fronts cheaper. Least the damage was done to a minimal though.

Bugger! Just that part of guard or else where. If only that should be an easy fix without to much notice

Havent done many K's yet and there is still more settling in. It will drop a little more yet. Believe me it will. Spacers will help with springs and on shock mounts I reckon. What was the measurement from the top of tyre to guard with your car? I have lows and I have just on 4 cm from top of tyre to bottom of guard. Kings springs have disclaimer on these springs for super and ultra. I suppose they want to cover themselves.

By the way "Welcome to Ozfalcon".

Yeah understandable what your saying about being reasonable on fuel. I suppose the outcome of this engine may dictate on what direction you want to take. Plenty of options though to choose from. Plenty of good threads/projects on x-flows that might get you bitten. ...and OHC

Love the color!! Potential for great engine project??

Nice ute bro! ...and what the other guys said too.

Yeah seen a glass guy do it once and the second time the windscreen was replaced was a no go. Third windscreen the guy had some little bent flat screw driver.

Yep the old mirrors made easy and Ford in their wisdom changed with the AU2 onwards then change back to similar set up as the old ones in e-series etcas the AU2 were a cunt for everyone without taking a chunk out. There is a tool that slides in to push clip/spring up and then allows you to slide mirror up and off. A small bent screw driver could do the trick then slide up towards the roof

Sorry I thought you wanted base off, Series 1 au are like x-series but series 2 on have tabs at the base that you need to push in and it will slide off

Gently apply heat with hair dryer etc to soften adhesive. Either put mirror back on and apply pressure or something else and slowly work it. Then reapply heat again. I have seen this done once before. Does work if you take your time and not over heat or force.

I seen somewhere before what color grey they are but can't remember where though if it was here or else where. But would anyone know what color or product they used on the rear bumpers on a XG to bring them back to new?

No worries. Work on efi alloy cant see why not on a aussiespeed http://www.speco.com.au/accgasket.html Here is the website for them