Banno

Tab faces to back of motor/ towards gearbox. When you put it have one end sticking up out of block 1/4 of inch and the other side sticking 1/4 in the main cap. Hope makes sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can use a 2 piece seal from a Windsor 302 motor to replace the rope seal. Can’t recall part number but do a google search should come up with it. Search the old xfalcon site will have it. Just have to grind down the pin in the rear mains cap to do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/8290-tips-on-welding-cracked-strut-tower-in-xg-ute/ Have a read of this if your concerned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep seen these start cracking all the place and do have quite amount of flex later models. Torque and weight and underrated suspension is a great mix. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Up to you but I be going over all the spot welds and even welding up and plating engine cross member before putting such large engine in a xf ute. Late model xf are not built the same as a xd or early xe in steel quality. Even xg were ordinary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is the 400 still going in the xf? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Extra note lapping valves is great but not if the guides or seat are stuffed. I sent a head recently for look over which I picked up for nothing that looked great that had a reco from gem reconditioners (think that’s the place)sometime with low kms. Intake valves were okay just need little work on seats and angle but the exhaust valve stems had a mix of worn valve stems and seats. A typical once over close to spec and slapped together reconditioned and sold to the public.Ask them to do it right for me after check Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If your getting machine shop to skim the heads get them go over valves and check if they in spec. Do it right the first time it’s not like these engines are sitting in every wrecking yard in australia. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The usual exhaust and intake will help even diff ratio swap. But more serious stuff your heading into ecu tunes, camshafts etc. This all depend on the gas system factory egas or aftermarket impco vapour on how far you can go. There was a FG ecopli xr6 fitted with a turbo year ago Done that was pushing good numbers. So there are places that are turbocharging lpg cars. It’s like anything is possible just depends how deep your pockets are. Best to talk to them. Sad too Ford engineers had a factory xr6 ecopli turbo going through its final tests ready for its debut when Ford USA pulled the plug on local manufacture and ended it there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Belt deflection for them as quoted by factory is 10-11 mm. If you look at the top mounting bolt and bracket you will notice that it’s on kinda rack and pinion system if it hasn’t been stripped out. Just loosen all the mounting bolts a little then loosen the top bolt and rotate inner bolt (gear driven) on the mounting bracket rack till you get tight tension and tighten outer bolt Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The ecu supplies a ground for the pump to run few seconds when ignition is turned on to prime after that picks up pip to keep pump running when engine runs till ignition is turned off and no signal. Check grounds but also swap relay with new or known working relay. Best person for this is Outback jack maybe send a message it may bring him around as he hasn’t been on here for long while Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just double check that all your earths are secured. They are temperamental to bad earths. Even a loose earth on battery can cause auto to go into limp mode to relays to work intermittent or not at all. Had every scenario with my ute just from earth. Also if you swapped dizzy check the earth wire that goes to engine block next dizzy. They are 25 year old cars now and that wire gets brittle and breaks ( had that done to me once too) Otherwise the old bangers keep going. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay finished doing this job. As daunting as I thought it would be, it was actually not bad. So to make the job easier after looking how Panko did his, I followed the same method by rolling plastic sockets over ball joint but before doing this I pre heated the plastic socket along with hair dryer. Move dryer up and down and around to even heat along arm. Heat till metal is hot but not uncomfortable to hold in palm. Then proceed to roll socket over joint with side way motion (greased of course). Do each at one of the time .Popped in quite easy without to much trouble just don’t over grease. Kinda same theory as putting a seal in a alloy cover. Heat the cover to expand and the seal is cold which is contracted small and in it goes. Though credit should go to deankdx as was his quote on using boiling water gave me the thought on doing it but instead swapped with dryer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone have any tips or warning hazards on replacing these. Bought repo set and going to replace in the next couple of days. I heard they are real bugger to replace with a possibility of breaking the plastic ends, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks and will do Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

and some ford Xe Fairmont Ghia 6 cylinder efi turned up with them too particularly 83 year model. But if it has pbr calipers on front and not Girlocks good chance it have that diff. How and why I am not sure but do know that ford were known to flog all gear that normally came from previous model/specs or change in suppliers etc from the parts bin till ran out especially in either in certain models such as ghia or limited edition/one off production run. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They do look nice! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with Deankdx on getting new wheels. Never been keen on wheel spacers.Pretty sure they wouldn’t let you on track with spacers either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Come up well. What brand of degreaser you use? Looks like there is corrosion in the back water jacket, so you going to get it skimmed or is it just photo? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where was that found in the engine? But does look like part of a lifter from photo. It’s a dirty 83k motor though. What’s the plans or magic for this motor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s to do with adr27c 1983 revised cause 1982 follow version adr27b.Emissions from what I gather. I have heard and read that in NSW require engineers but yet Victoria don’t. Even in EPA Victoria states that a v8 can be put into any XE cause it was a option. Best bet would be call a engineer or RMS NSW. To me it makes no sense when all states are meant to follow federal rules on vehicles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From Factory for central locking never had a relay. But I’d say a relay would’ve been put in for central locking with alarm and remote. The key never unlocked all doors at once which was kinda stupid only the arm rest switches. Alarm is probably power directly straight off battery but original factory wiring didn’t. So either bad earth, or wire is tapped into the lock loom after the switch so when remote used it gets direct battery voltage but when switch used your getting voltage dropped due to 30 plus year wiring and everything else that is tapped onto the battery feed wire through the dash. I would look for the noise and then test for voltage drop and earth .The loom is set up is very basic just very long for all doors with connectors Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmmm interesting. It does have hf9 cast into it. The only thing I can say about it is that it was machined very well. Anyway I like the look of it, had a little skimmed off and the ports look rather very clean compared to the others I have not sure it was from good casting or been cleaned up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Na the bottom original matching number etc etc. But I reckon the cylinder head is not original. That’s why I believe that was done for other reasons not for turbo. Just reckon it was a change over but mate never did it but do believe the original owner probably would’ve. Wouldn’t surprise that a lot of c2 heads were done like this from GEM. I don’t think it’s any special just a little more about it than all others. Just this one had a high hardness test. To me it kinda resembles attempt of a xe unmark head or E1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No didn’t it come off a GEM motor but not to say the cylinder head didn’t come from GEM factory either originally. The only history is came from mates ford xf s pack sedan which he pulled out for a v8 and placed xflow in a cortina till the cortina succumbed to rust. This is late 90’s early 2000’s. Other than that wouldn’t know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk