Outback Jack

There's a Scat 1600 crank and bearings for sale on Gumtree over here and a lotus 1600 twin can head if your interested Panko.

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Hi guys just wondering if anyone knew if the IRS set up out of an AU could be made to work on an XG ute.

I'm after IRS as I have a project in mind that runs IRS shafts.

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G'Day gent's
                     Thought i would ask if there is any thing i should look out for , before pulling apart the high beam / Indicator switch.
Hoping it is a easy task to clean the contact points.

Great info Jack, next radiator fill will be with rainwater

I've noticed that Ethylene Glycol (the toxic one) was set to be phased out with Proplylene Glycol (non-toxic) probably 20 years ago, at least in heavy diesel applications for liner cavitation, long-life and environmental reasons. PG is actually used as a food additive and in cosmetics, such is its low-toxicity nature.

PG is a long-life coolant with 5 years being pretty standard. Back then, EG lasted only 2 years.

Somehow now, the manufacturers have swung back to Ethylene Glycol and have made it into a 5-year coolant, yet the toxicity remains. Perhaps PG is too expensive? I hate to think what kind of environmental hazards are presented with an EG spill vs PG (pretty benign in comparison)

They are definitely incompatible (hence the pink dye added to the concentrate) and there are catastrophic consequences for mixing the two. Like your coolant turning to jelly.

But there isn't an industry standard for coolant colours and types, which further confuses the issue. For PG, I have seen blue, purple, punk and red. For EG, the majority are green/yellow but Toyota are set on having red despite it resembling many generic PG types.

I would say Proplylene is a superior coolant in every way, but back in the early 2000s, a complete fill of a car would cost probably $150 with premix. Maybe though, the higher cost and incompatibility with EG have pushed it purely into the industrial market?

That scenario is sort of like DOT 4 and DOT 5 brake fluids. 4 is a glycol based fluid, and 5 is silicone. To the uninformed, these could be easily mixed up yet they are highly incompatible. You hardly ever see DOT 5 except in racing cars.

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Hey Guys,

Just doing a bit on Water for cooling systems and will look at Corrosion inhibitors and coolant a bit.

Let's start with water.....

Now there are 3 main areas of Water to look at:

1) Softness and Hardness

2) PH and it's effects on metals.

3) Rain water VS Distilled water VS R.O. water VS Tap water.

Softness and Hardness:

These are terms used to describe the mineral content or Total Dissolved Solids in a water source.

The softer the water the less dissolved solids are in it.

The harder the water the more dissolved solids it has.

This can be measured in two ways...

TDS or E.C.

Total dissolved solids or electromagnetic current.

P.P.M.

Parts Per Million.

For this write up I will be using P.P.M.

PH OF WATER and effects on metals.

PH measures whether the water is Acidic , Neutral or Alkaline.

The lower the PH, the more Acidic the water is. (PH.4- very acidic)

The higher the PH, the more Alkaline the water is. (PH.10-very alkaline)

Neutral PH is around 7.

Acidic water will eat into metals and Alkaline water will leave scale and mineral build up if the PPM is high.

Tap water is usually around PH.8-9, so it does not eat away metal pipes.

Slightly Alkaline.

In a motor there are all sorts of metals that interact with each other.

Alloys, steel, brass, copper etc, etc.

Usually in an Acidic PH state in a motor Aluminum and Alloys will act like a sacrificial anode and be the first to be corroded away. Steel will rust and brass and copper will degrade.

In an Alkaline PH state in a motor again Alloys and Aluminum are affected first and calcium and other minerals will fall out of suspension and bond with metals causing white scale build up.

Usually see this if you use tap water in your motor.

Ok, now you understand about Dissolved Solids measured in P.P.M and PH levels let's look at the different waters.

TAP WATER-

P.P.M. 200-300+

(World health standard for drinking water is MAX of P.P.M. 500.)

PH- 8 to 9.

So tap water is high in dissolved solids and mildly Alkaline to prevent pipe corrosion.

Considered Mild to Hard water depending on PPM level.

The PH will be pretty constant but P.P.M will vary depending on source.

RAIN WATER-

P.P.M- low and varied dependant on collection method.

PH. - can also vary greatly dependant on collection method.

Considered Soft water as rainwater is evaporated ocean salt water and most solids are left behind.

Acidity/Alkalinity varies.

DISTILLED WATER-

P.P.M.- between 100-200.

PH. - usually around 7-8.

Is considered soft water as has low PPM and also is close to PH neutral.

R.O. WATER (reverse osmosis).-

P.P.M. - between 20-30 PPM.

PH. - usually around 7-8.

Is considered very soft water and is also very close to PH neutral.

CHOOSING WATER FOR USE IN MOTORS.

Now, based on all that information you will find you want a water that is low in dissolved solids and pretty PH neutral.

TAP water is too high in dissolved solids and PH is also too high.

Alkalinity high and pH high will cause scale and mineral build up.

If goes acidic, will eat metal.

Bad choice.

RAIN water is good as it is low in dissolved solids but PH can vary.

Soft enough but PH can be unknown.

Not consistent enough.

DISTILLED water is great as has low amount of dissolved solids and pretty PH neutral.

Good choice for use with Corrosion inhibitor concentrate or to mix with coolant concentrate.

Can be purchased from Supermarkets.

R.O. water (reverse osmosis) is the best with P.P.M. of only 20-30 and a neutral P.H.- to slightly Alkaline.

Also strips water of chlorine, impurities.

Best choice for use with Corrosion Inhibitor concentrate or Premix Coolant concentrates.

Need access to R.O. water filter or buy a set up.(around $80 inc filters).

Both Distilled water and R.O. water can be used alone in the cooling system but I would advise using at least a corrosion inhibitor as extra insurance.

Type B:

Corrosion Inhibitors come in 2 types.

Type B - Corrosion inhibitor ONLY.

Type A - Corrosion inhibitor and Coolant or Antifreeze/Antiboil.

Early Falcons use only Corrosion inhibitor and no coolant or anti freeze/anti boil.

Really only needed in extreme heat or extreme cold.

The use of coolant on the 4L sohc for example may lead to too lower temp reading and possibly affect the E.C.T. sensor. Causing them to run rich.

The gauge may also be affected and read low.

Thermostat for these motors should be 91C as they came out with.....

Can use anywhere from 87-93C.

I recommend Motorad thermostats....

Very similar to Factory except has air bleed or "rattler", and factory thermostat does not.

Do Not use thermostats that have been drilled and touted as "performance" thermostats. These will lower the operating temp slightly, but enough for the ecu to read the temp as cooler and richen the Air Fuel Ratio and may even prevent/hamper Lean cruise mode.

Motors like Clevos , Crossys , 4L sohc and Windsors only really need Corrosion Inhibitor and distilled or R.O. water.

Coolant or AntiFreeze/AntiBoil really only needs to be used in extreme situations or with performance applications.

OR if required by motor specs.

Coolants are typically glycol mixed with water and dye added.

(Glycol is actually clear.)

The new generation of coolants are water free but require a special flushing agent be used before using the coolant.

As there is no water in the mix, there is little to no corrosion.

Evans Waterless coolants.

 Most cooling system problems can be fixed with proper radiator shrouds, correct thermostat and fan system.

Coolant really shouldn't be used to fix an inefficient system.

Hope this helps some people and explains why you don't use tap water in your cooling system.

FORD ON!

Outback Jack.

That what you were after@SPArKy_Dave ?

Thanks outback Jack  
It runs like a dream now  
Thanks for your help

 
Nobody thinks that mate!
The info in your rebuild thread, is invaluable to anyone who reads it.
 
In other thoughts,
I wonder how a dodgy TFI module, could affect the Speedometer reading too?
 

ok fixed for those with same issues was the TFI module.
 

Cheers outback Jack

It is plugged in but the clip is broken   

If it plugged in does it need a clean can it be cleaned or swap out?

The Idle Speed Controllers are pretty durable. Goss do a decent replacement if you need one.

If the clip is broken on the wiring loom side, just use run of the mill connectors until you can source a new plug.

If it's broken on the ISC side, get one from the wreckers or buy a new one.

If you don't want to spend money, just use spade connectors and fix the s*** connection.

If you want new connectors try eBay or PEC.

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When the motor is coldit doesn't want to idle 
After its warmed up yer no problems  it idles at 500 when warm and I can't find any vacuum leaks ,Intake manifold it tight 
With the aircon on it doesn't change much 
The battery has been out is there something I should reset???

Would that cause the dash to jump all over the place ?

Hi all , have an intermittent fault 
 XF EFI 4 speed sort of late ECU etc, but does it on XF system too.
Is doing my head in, car runs fine then goes to hell no throttle take up misses etc which also causes the XF Fairmont digital cluster speedo and taco to jump all over the place.
running out of things to try  anyone encountered this ?

Cheers Sparky,
Just thought while I was doing mine it might come in handy for others.
Ford On!

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Ok guys, going to do a breakdown of how to tear down an Instrument Cluster and replace the Gears if your Odometer and Trip meter stop working.

This is the base model GL cluster.

Most common cause is the gear in the Speedo assembly loses a tooth and gets stuck in one position.

Ok, first of all you need to take Surround off of the Instrument cluster/Dash.

2 screws on top of dash under small square plastic covers....

2 screws, one each side under the switches for dash light dimmer and under switch for headlights.....

Then there are 2 more, one each side of the steering column that go up into the bottom of the surround.....

Once these screws are out, you can pull the surround forward and disconnect the electrical connectors to the side switches and get it out of the way.

Then you will see 2 plastic tabs at the top with screws, remove them.

Then at the bottom there are 2 plastic tabs with screws, remove them.

Then carefully roll the Instrument panel forwards as you remove it, so you can disconnect the Smartlock wiring plug, lower left and the 2 black wiring plugs at back of cluster(centre).

After this you can pull the cluster out and set up on a table somewhere.

Disassembly.....

Ok, to disassemble you need to remove 4 screws on the top that screw the white back to the black front panel....

Then remove ALL silver screws from the back panel.....

There are 3 different sizes, so take note of where they are from.

Then on the bottom of the cluster, there are 4 black plastic tabs....

These must be pushed down to disengage.

Tip: Start at one side while slightly levering from the centre.

Once all tabs are unlocked very gently lever around the 2 parts and it should come apart....

Put the plastic clear cover to one side.

Now you are left with this....

Grab the centre section with speedo like so.....

And gently remove.....

Remove the two screws in the face plate and invert, being careful not to damage the speedo needle assembly, use the hole it came out to rest it on....

Rotate the internals so the circuit board faces towards you.....

On the silver round cover there are two screws, remove these and gently remove cover and circuit board and lay down....

Then lift gear assembly off....

Flip it over....

You will most probably find one broken tooth....

Now the reason this happens is resetting the trip meter while moving.

Reset the Trip meter ONLY when vehicle is stationary.

Replace gear, reassemble everything in reverse order of the above breakdown and your done.

Please note, this assembly is missing the reset pin that triggers the Trip meter which goes through this hole and attaches via clip to the silver bar....

Hope that helps some of you get your Odometer/Trip meters going again.

New gears can be sourced on EBay for around $25 a set which is small gear cog and larger black cog, replace both at once.

NOS Trip meter reset pins are harder to find and expensive. (Around $50-60).

If you can find an old dead dash with good reset pin, that may be the best option.

Cheers.

Jack.

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[mention=244]gerg[/mention] Tho Wagons are bad for exhaust resonating through the car, Bros XE wagon has is bad for it,

My bros wagon has same exhaust as on my XF ute (minius cat) no drone on XF but really drones through the wagon when on the highway.

 

My XF utes exhaust sound didn't change much to when I changed from stock manifold & cat, to extractors & hi flow cat with same cat back exhaust,

The exhaust did really change with my new engine tho, became louder & bigger cam makes for a nice idle note,

Pacemakers, 100 cell cat, all 2.5'' (for now) with  Hooker Aerochamber muffler, (3" tip). Videos is some footage I found on my camera, could be from before it was tuned from the hi idle,

 

Pacemaker extractors, high flow cat, 2 1/2" pipe work, Hooker Aerochamber muffler, 2 1/2" into side pipe.

Don't dump it at the diff, drone at 110km/hr will shit you after an hour or so.

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Absolute bloody legend, much appreciated. Is that a workshop manual jack?  I've got a copy of the Gregory's manual and it's got very little detail.

But actually it's a Nissan workshop manual for the XFN Nissan ute which was a rebadged Ford XF.

But it's the only available way to get a proper XF workshop manual for Ute's.

Most of the stuff for sedans is the same.

Ground is Black/Orange.

Pin 1 on Dizzy.

Hall effects ground.

Supply is Brown.

Pin 3 on Dizzy.

Hall effects Power

Signal is Yellow/Green.

Pin 5 on Dizzy.

PIP signal from dizzy to ecu.

Here's a pic of connector set up.....

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I will never change your mind about putting a 1600 in Panko, it's your car and your money, so go for it.

I don't know who your 'expert' is but I have pulled a 1300 out of a Mark 1 72 escort 2 door and bolted a 2L Pinto and Cortina gearbox straight in. No mods.

I did have to move the radiator forwards but it was minor work.

Stock diff, stock brakes, stock shocks.

Later when I upgraded the power we decided to move the motor and box back 2 inches to pull the motor more behind the front wheels to improve handling/ weight distribution. Cleared the bubble easy.

Guards were rolled and fibreglassed by me and 13's and 235 Eagers went on.

That was a budget build.

TP-1 pinto cam, polished and ported head running a 350 holley. Stock bottom.

Made over 250RWHP on first dyno run.

Was like a big go-cart.

I did all the work myself except tailshaft and got help from a REAL escort expert when we moved the motor and box back 2".

That car ran extractors (2L Capri ones, heated and bent to fit) no problem , cut at the collector and 3" pipe and super turbo muffler.

The guy who helped me had a Twin Cam lotus 1600 MK1 and Rallye wide body,

and was the go to guy for rally and track racing escorts. He built some beasts.

Was a pleasure to know him and he helped me source my 2L head from an ex Wanneroo raceway track car. (Now Barbagellos).

My Escort would chase down my mates Rotarys 12A extended port RX3 and 13B bridge ported R100.

In the corners I was all over them.

It went to Ravenswood drags back in the day and would wind the needle off the speedo.

I also owned a 79 2L Escort Panelvan that was no slouch and ran truck valves in the head.

So I think I know a lil about Eskies.

Let us know how you go mate.
Might be helpful for others here.

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You do what you want Panko.
I was doing up Escorts 20-25 years ago.
The only Ford escort 1600 that revs harder than a Pinto 2L is the 1600 twin cam, because it's overhead cam.
To get around radiator mods, you just move the engine mounts back 2".

2L Pinto is a beautiful motor, very easy to wake up with just a cam and nice carbs.
I've been there done that with Eskies.
I suggest you read Steve Vizards books on 2L Pintos, will change your life.

I understand your not wanting to mod the escort too much, mods for 2L are minimal.
Was just trying to save you a lot of time and money.


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2L pinto conversion would of been heaps cheaper even with 4speed they are great fun. Can even get twin cam heads for them.
As the old saying goes. "No substitute for Cubic Inches".


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Yeah thanks JAck, got one here.
 
One section shoes resistance but another suggests voltage outputs.
 
It states that the resistance should be between 11 and 152 ohms, of course which doesnt exist as an aftermarket sender.

Im looking at pissing off the fuel tank in the ute and fitting a fuel sell but id like to know for sure if the gauge uses a resistive sender.

 

From what i can interpret from the service manual it does.

 

I can get a 5 bolt sender from aeroflow in three different resistance ratings but as per usual on the internet everyone has an opinion but id prefer a definitive answer.

 

Any help appreciated.

 

I'll go back out to Shed and grab it.....

There you go mate.

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My score from under the carpet

 

 

Under my house one of the builders in 1964 had placed an Australian penny on one of the supports. House was built in 1964, coin is 1964.

It's supposed to bring good fortune as long as the two things remain together.

My queen is hotter....

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its to convert from 6 cyl to v8 the plugs for ecu in v8 seems to be different but in 6 cyl it as you said looks to be same, what would you do out those options

 

also feel free to vote

 

Count the pins on the V8 ecu , if its 60 odd, then that's an AU set up. If it's 40 odd its EL.

Vote for what?

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