Outback Jack

Are you keeping that nice high nickel 400 block for your project or selling it off Chestnut?

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Welcome Crebe,
I'm old skool too and like my carbies.
I know for a six a manifold is $550 and good carb around $6-700.
That's top gear, Aussiespeed 4 barrel manifold and Black Diamond 600 Quick Fuel carby.
Then an MSD 6AL-2 and coil $650.
Then MSD leads $150.

There's a bit over 2K there and you still need a low volume fuel reg to feed carby at 3-5psi.
And a Wideband O2 sensor set up to keep an eye on AFR's would be a good idea.
Stand alone modules are available for auto boxes.

So at about 2.5-3K and some new wiring ...you can pull the ecu out and drop kick it across the yard.


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It's a nub. Lol.
Hey Chestnut, if your doing a few motors on the cheap, try flex hone to hone the bores. Much easier on the bores than stones etc.
I used one on my 4L rebuild. Good bit of kit.

Line boring/honing will always be better but if the bores aren't bad and just need a hone, the Flex hone is more expensive than stone hones but does a better more even job.

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Offset would be -25 for the rear on a 9 inch rim. Im just a little worried the wheels might stick out to far.

I run 7" rims all the way round.
I could see the rear taking 9" fairly easy, limited by the leafspring and the inner guard lip. That offset is the key, I'm sure one of the guys here will be able to help you further with Wheels and Tyres.

Biggest I've heard of on an untubbed XF/XG with leafsprings was around 275-85?
I know 265 will fit.
It's that offset that's important with fatties.


I got 7" rims with All Terrain 4x4 tyres on it, but I live out in the country.

Post up some pics of your XG and if the 12 slotters are in good nick, hold onto them. Old blokes like me love them.


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Hey guys, recently got myself an xg ute and looking to upgrade the 12 slotters that are on there. The wheels im looking at are 7x14 3.5 inch bs with a 225 tyre and 14x9 4 inch bs with a 265 tyre. Will these fit (its standard height atm but will be lowering it later on). 
 
Cheers Cam

Hey mate, 225 in 14 on front, no worries.
Rears should take a 265, but just depends what offset the rims are.
I run 15" on my XG with 215 all the way round.

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Hey Ash, I use penrite full synthetic diff oil. Been real good, no noise at all.

Go for a drive before you dump the diff oil, get it all thin.

Then just bung in the Penrite and never look back. Best diff oil ever.

I run an LSD and this stuff really lasts and has good colour even after a year.

Full Synthetic rules in diffs.

I use Penrite Semi Synth in the Gearbox and that's great as well.

 

Gary Neumann at Autopro should have some in Donny. Ask him to sing "Cars'.

Always funny....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EA gasket is like ED/XG, it's the big flat wide one.

In EF they went to a skinny gasket and shaped the rocker cover to avoid having to use the half moons - basically cast into the rocker cover if that makes sense

Not all XG have the flat gasket.
Mine has the cast in half moons and skinny gasket set up.
I have a stack of flat rocker cover gaskets here from gasket sets that have the wrong gasket.
Must be early XG have the flat and late model the skinny moulded one.

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Mate it depends on what the EA gasket is like, if it's the same as AU and the bolt holes line up, then the rocker cover should work.

But if your head is like mine on my ED/XG and has a half moon seal front and back, the rocker cover will only fit that type of head.

 

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XH utes got given a domed roof, to increase vehicle head-room inside the cab.
I believe there is a difference.

Maybe I stand corrected.....

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Hay all  As the title says, I'm just wanting to know if the EA rocker fits on a au head. 

Thanks

 

 

Different rocker ratios mate, they will fit, but your valves won't work too well...or do you mean rocker cover?

 

 

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That shouldn't make any difference, there's a rubber sealing strip across the front and the canopy sits on top not butts up to the rear of trim. Should be fine.

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Should fit no worries Wok.

XG and XH have the same rear section. Its pretty much E series from the front of the doors forward on an XH.

XF, XG and XH all share a common design in the rear section.p

 

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I agree with Gerg with above info.

For a crossy, 10 degrees at 0-500rpm means an idle at 12 degrees.

Then try a curve with more points, I think from memory a rough guide is 2 degrees for every 500rpm.

 

So at 0-500rpm 10degrees

500-1000rpm 12 degrees

1000-1500rpm 14 degrees

1500-2000rpm 16 degrees

2000-2500rpm 18 degrees

2500-3000rpm 20 degrees

3000-3500rpm 22 degrees

3500-4000rpm 24 degrees

4000-4500rpm 26 degrees

4500-5000rpm 28 degrees

5000-5500rpm 30 degrees

5500-6000rpm 32 degrees.

 

This will give you a great base curve to tune from. The MSD 6AL series like to have multiple reference points.

That timing will be pretty good, I set up a crossy with 600 holley and that curve.

It's a good starting point for all timing set ups.

Just add in an extra 2 degrees per 500rpm to whole table if you want to peak at 34degrees @ 5500-6000rpm.

That would mean you have a 0-500 of 12 degrees. Around 14 degrees at idle.

 

You can thank@ando76 for that, he's the one that gave me the info on how to set up a good base curve.

 

 

 

 

It's a Boy! ..... Nice blue mate.
Good to see you progressing along nicely.


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Ali always oxidizes mate, hence the dull finish. Now you have all the crap off it, hit it with that phosphorous acid based cleaner, give it a few sprays and scrubs and watch it shine.

Just don't let the acid dry out on the manifold will make run marks etc.

Spray bottle, wait 10 minutes, scrub with clean brush, hose off.

Do that 3-4 times and it will be sweet.

 

Brass wheel will work but it beats the texture down.

Go the acid mate and never look back.

 

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Looking good Chestnut.
Got to love a Big bore Ford V8.

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Hey Chestnut, try this Ali cleaner, it's a phosphoric acid.

Brings up cast Ali like brand new.

Use a spray bottle, and spray it on neat or 50/50 with water.

But remember to add the acid to the water if you mix it, not the other way around or it will splatter and burn you.

 

Ali gearbox from this......

 

To this.....

 

Notice it worked best on the cast extension housing.

 

I spray it on, let it sit for 10-15 minutes then spray again and scrub with a brush.

Wash off with water.

Will come up like new.

 

 

 

 

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Try 1234, its usually the default pin.

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Good thinking Hendrix, I reakon that's it too. ^^^

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Start looking at wrecked older Ford trucks Chestnut. Quite a few rocked 460 big blocks.
The first thing you do with a 460 is throw the heads in the bin, cause they are s*** and need so much work to get them to flow properly it's cheaper to buy Ali heads that flow heaps better. So you only need a short motor, then whack on a set of after market heads.
I saw a completely rebuilt 460 on eBay a couple weeks ago for 8 grand, that's a drop in complete motor.

400 is a waste of time. Stroker 51 or 460 if you want cubes.

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I use Lovell springs, they do decent sets.
Better than cheaper makes.
My ute has Mustang spring saddles from the states with Roller bearings instead of the rubber bushes.
Very smooth and always keeps good spring alignment through bumpy corners.



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Cheers Fellas, it's an idea I have but it's a very expensive idea, but requires an IRS to make it work properly.
That looks quite doable. Maybe be the cheapest part.
I don't need the diff just the shafts,arms, coil overs ,stub axles,hubs/brakes and sub frame.
I've been pricing everything else up and it is double what I thought it would cost, just trying to decide if its worth doing when I could buy a fairly new car for the same money.

Would be a bitchin project though......

Cheers for all your help on the IRS fellas.




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Even the watts-link suspension in XE-AU, handles un-predicably once the bushes wear,

although not quite as bad, as the IRS.

Replacement bushes are available aftermarket, I believe?

 

Maybe a B-series or FG IRS rear?

I think bushes are available those still also.

It's ok Sparky, after a bit of brain crunching I found a way to make it work with a live axle rear.

Just needs a bit of engineering but doable.

I will reveal all later in the year or early next year....hehehe.

 

I may still need to go IRS but at least I know now to get it from a later model if I do. Thanks for your help.

 

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Cheers Sparky, I don't particularly want IRS , it just makes the mods I want to do easier.
I will keep searching for a solution...
Always something.





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Cheers Dean, I'll check it out.
I don't need the diff, just the axles and suspension set up with wheel hubs etc.


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