Outback Jack

That's an old English tradition. To leave a coin with something you built.Under my house one of the builders in 1964 had placed an Australian penny on one of the supports. House was built in 1964, coin is 1964. It's supposed to bring good fortune as long as the two things remain together. My queen is hotter.... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

You might have to wait for someone who knows a bit more about nc/nl fairlanes.Count the pins on the V8 ecu , if its 60 odd, then that's an AU set up. If it's 40 odd its EL. Vote for what? Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

ED and EL are same number of pins for ECU. EL ecu plugs straight in. Should only have to change the wiring in the engine bay if going from 6 to 8. May need a few other things, but that's a start. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

A few people with XG Outbacks will probably be looking for new shocks at some stage, this info will save you some time finding replacements. Thanks to Troy at Monroe Australia sales for the great info and service. Champ! The Original XG Outback shocks are: Front- Monroe T.V.E. 848-18045 AA Rear- Monroe T.V.E. 848-18080 AA They were a Monroe Magnum shock. These part numbers/shocks no longer exist. New replacements are: Monroe Gas Magnum TDT Fronts are same as all XG front shocks. They are 10mm shorter in travel than original Outback spec which Monroe says is OK. Rears are longer and NOT standard height XG shock. FRONT SHOCKS. Part no. 16-0101.. , which is now obsolete but you can still buy these online. The new model is not available at the time I wrote this, but new part no is 331036MM. Compressed and Extended lengths, measured from base plate to base of top stud where first washer sits, are: Compressed: 230mm Extended: 355mm REAR SHOCKS. Part no. 16-0207 Current part number, plenty of stock. Compressed and Extended lengths, measured from base of each stud where first washer sits, are: Compressed: 296mm Extended: 496mm This info will help people get the appropriate heavy duty shocks for their Outbacks from Monroe or use the specs to size up replacement Koni , Bilsteins or coil overs. Hope this helps some peeps. Outback Jack. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Never tried that Ford Man, I use wet and dry so I can start off about 400 grit, then 600 grit , then 800 grit. I probably don't apply enough pressure when sanding, but like to go on the cautious side. I'd still like to use an MLS gasket but the last one cost me $450 and it left a bad taste in my mouth having to throw it because it was toast. I'm not sure I can get the finish it requires. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Yeah my factory gasket has lasted a fair while but I maintain my cars pretty well. Always checking for leaks etc, regular servicing, quality lubricants and filters. Country driving helps. Ford went the MLS route for just that reason. They raised the compression on the AU motor, so it was a logical step. The MLS gaskets are better at sealing 2 different metals like Alloy and Steel. They can handle detonation better and resist 'lift' by the alloy head at operating temps. I would be using one if the block finish was better, but block sanding is not machining and I don't want to create an uneven surface. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Where you have power to that wiring must be a constant 12V. You want power from a source that only has power when you are running. Switched 12V. So after the ignition and a power source that only powered in the ON position on Ignition barrel. Try power antenna, cigarette lighter, an amp power on from head unit. Just a few. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Well hope it all goes ok, and she's rwc'ed without any problems. Going to be a sweet ride. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Awesome Free!, nice quick response on the carby. Getting closer to rego, bet your excited. Well done. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Mmmmm.....Shiny. Looking good Free! Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Tomato..tomatoe.. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Your loss.Pinto is good for 120-150hp stockish. 2door like mine was closer to 700kg. I had 250rwhp. The radiator mods are very minor, can do it with tin snips. I pulled the 1300 and had the 2L in and running in 1/2 a day, by myself. Was silly how easy it was to bolt in. 1600's are ok, but its just a bored 1300 in the end. But if that's what your happy with, enjoy. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Panko, 2litre pinto time? Engine and gearbox drop straight in. Even a stock 2L is soo much fun in a 700kg MK1. Tailshaft will need changing , different end to the gearbox and radiator needs to go forward besides that it's a doddle. I ran a 2L pinto in my MK1 years ago, with a TP1 cam, worked race head and a Holley 350. Beast. If you roll the guards before it gets painted you can get 13's and 235's under it all the way round. Was the best thing I ever did to mine. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

That sucks Panko, hope you are OK and it's sad to see the lil Escort like that. With time it will be repaired mate. Chin up. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hope this helps mate. From XF workshop manual. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey guys, Had my head done a couple months ago, have noticed what looks like a few oil weeps from head gasket... Passenger side rear.... Drivers side rear..... And this one up front, but this could be top of timing chain cover... Now I didn't torque the head down and was surprised when the guy who did , did it in one stage, even questioned it. 'Nah, she'll be right'. That's ok I suppose when it's not your car or your money. Even had to pay $450 for the head gasket, found later on the bill, that retails at $300. I have new torque to yield bolts in and am wondering what is the correct torque for a 1.3mm MLS head gasket (this one is permatec MLS-R) on a 4L block? AND... Is it possible for me to check/retorque the head bolts without damage? Seems I paid good money to have things half arsed done, and now I'm going to have to correct it all myself. Grrrrrr..... Cheers Fellas. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Yeah mate, it's cost me a packet and still back at square one having to pull head off again and fix it myself.Being a pensioner, I had a budget of 3.5K. $1800 head and crow cam (quoted)and another $1200 new rims and tyres. Should of come home with some change in my pocket or at least to budget with extras. I estimate its cost me about 7K in money and NOS kit all up, plus 2 weeks free labour. I could of had a completely rebuilt motor for that with all the fruit. Lesson learnt. I been done by the young fella before years ago, I thought he'd changed....gave him another chance. Bad decision. Didn't expect the same from his old man. And both of them blaming the other for the shite, just playing me. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Ok, here's the skinny on head gaskets. Normal composite head gaskets on EA-ED and XG. 40nm + 90 degrees. AU MLS head gasket on EA-ED and XG 30nm+ 120 degrees. Now on MLS-R head gaskets there are little copper rivets all along the head gasket to keep all the layers together. Now it's normally OK, the rivets are positioned so they don't foul on the mating surfaces. But like it says in the MLS-R file- Due to differences in head castings etc, it may be necessary to drill out the rivets that foul on the mating surfaces and it's ok to remove them. This is what the rivet looks like in a position with no fouling... Now when we put the head on the motor, I bought up to the "mechanic", and I use that term very loosely, that I thought the rivet at the rear of the head looked like it was going to foul. 'Nope, she'll be right' bullshit. Well as you can see in my last post, there is a leak of some kind at the rear of the head. On closer inspection, this is what I found on the drivers side rear..... As you can see the MLS-R head gasket is not sitting flat. Let's have a closer look..... Now I'm pretty pissed off, as you can see, it's not sealing properly and there's coolant and oil. All for the sake of one rivet, and 5 minutes to remove it. Now I will have to pull the whole head off just to remedy this one pissy problem I paid to have done properly. And I hadn't named names before, but I bloody will now. After working 2 weeks for free in their workshop being the coffee making, give a hand on everything workshop bitch, while waiting for the machine shop to get my head back,whilst more than paying my way while staying up there for two weeks, getting gouged on my bill by my so called mate and his father, even after taking care of them. Spending 5K and getting treated like shit when I question the bill and some labour/ part prices. And.... for having to fix all their fark ups on my ute after paying good money to get it done properly by people I thought I could trust and would look after me. Lews Auto Repairs in Bunbury WA. Wankers! The only reason other customers don't know they are getting gouged is they don't know what stuff costs and get bullshitted. My old man was a mechanic and I have worked on cars all my life, so I know what shit costs. $450 for an MLS-R head gasket that t.i. performance sell retail for $300. Bullshit. 2 weeks work from me there means nothing and worth nothing. Still paid over a grand in labour, most of which I did myself. A quoted $1800 head and cam job ends up over 3.5K with me supplying most of the labour and all the gaskets. And they know I'm a pensioner, didn't stop them at all...... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Cheers Bear, and Gerg and Thom for your input. Much Appreciated. I wanted to do the block in my ute as its matching numbers but that will leave me with no transport, so looks like I might have to have the short block in the spares ute done. Only thing I'm worried about is its been sitting for 9 years without a head on it, under the spare ute bonnet. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

That's ok mate, its Friday night! hehe. So that means 020 or twenty thou over should be OK then? Which would be O.5mm? I'm confusing myself now, haven't had a Jacks....lol. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Ok Gerg, might have to get the bores machined then....damn, was hoping to avoid that, Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Yeah and I've had her for 10 years now. Hehe. Did the pics work? Don't for me. I misread what you said Thom, you said over 0.050 would require machining. So I guess 0.50 is machine shop time then. I always get confused on the measurents, so the pistons are 20 thou of an inch over or 0.50mm, correct? I see what your saying now Gerg. Excuse my stupid. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

That's what I was thinking Thom. Be a nice tight fit anyway at 0.50.... take up some of that 300,000km wear.... Hehe. This was the sticker on the back of the block, head had never been off and shows all bores as Standard, no over sizes. Head gasket was just about welded to the block after all those kilometers. Lol Bores weren't bad at all.. So I'm hopeful of a nice hone and new bearings and she'll be apples. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

These Slugs look soooo nice.... They are the Silvolite ones. Droooool..... They say available in 020, 040,060 or 0.50, 1.0 and 1.5. So if I just honed the block would the 020 or 0.50 go in with 0.50 rings ok? Or am I up for some machining for a stock bore? Sorry it's been awhile, I'm a bit rusty. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Thanks soo much mate. Legend.I did think of just doing pistons and rings with a hone and maybe just chuck a new oil pump and bearings at it to be on the safe side. I just looked at the ACL race series bearings as I can get both sets for $210. Which is not bad at all for quality. The Slugs were the most expensive bit.... $500 for the set but will give me the compression I was after at 5cc dish as I think stock are 7-8cc dish? Correct me if I'm wrong. I think the 60 thou off the stock head, AU MLS head gasket and those pistons should get me to around 10-10.5 to 1 easy.n Hastings rings $128, which are quality too and last. Now I'm just looking at all the tools I need and extras. And plastiguage and Vernier calipers to measure it all..... Phew! Never ends... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk