Crazy2287

Yeah I've got the bottom one as well, running dx3. Got the car driving on Monday and took it for a few laps. Drives fine, steering is a lot heavier but it has good authority. I need to spend some more time behind wheel to see if the "feel" is better from a performance aspect. I hooked it to the ign power (not the fuel pump power) through a 3 position single pole (SPDT) rocker switch so i can have it on, off and auto (on with ign) so i can spin it up if i want to move the car with the engine off, i can turn it off with the eng running so im not drawing power if im tuning or doing some other maintenance. Or it spins up as soon as the ign is on, because it takes a while to build pressure this makes the startup lag less noticeable compared to if it was connected to fuel pump power.

Keen for xf bonnet, guards and boot if/when they are in production as long as they provide a weight advantage over factory.

*Has a heart attack* That's Bonkers, Between 10-15a at the coils, 5a to the ecu and injectors (they are low z right?) 15a on the fuel pump and 7A on the water pump that lil alternators going to get quite a surprise! Just keep an eye on your voltage, If it's dropping below 12.4v your reducing your spark, fuel delivery and increasing injector dead time. The ECU should account for this but it could make tuning interesting and reduce possible power if your running at the limit... Yeah i dunno. Good luck? Interesting to see how it holds up in practice!

This is awesome. Subscribing

I'll rock this for the weekend. Or maybe the week IDK

How many K's you got on the IDAS fluid Lord?

You guys still running that LDAS Fluid? Hows the power steering box holding up?

Ive got a ts astra pump and it recommends the thin full syn oil. Not sure if the kirby steering box is gonna like that. did we figure out what oils the steering box will tolerate? Been talking to a few guys saying the Dex3 is working fine in them. I'll probably be going that way and just monitoring for excessive heat and/or foaming/cavitation.

All 20mm. I'd hate for you to blow money on something you may not need. Make sure you go over the thread I linked to determine if you actually NEED shock spacers. If you do, No problem. Will you have issues? If you jamming another 5mm (Strut brace) under the shock spacer I'm going to say yes. It will be VERY close to the bonnet, and the deflection in the upper shock mount bushes as you drive over bumps might be all it needs to wack a dint in your bonnet. In fact, I recommended anyone running these as is that they should check clearances, as there are small differences in manufacturing tolerances, shocks and bushes (rubber vs polyurethane), it might clear one bonnet on a setup but will hit the next (although i've had no reports of any bonnets been hit yet) You can easily avoid this by cutting the top off your Shocky, when assembled. Only a couple mm above the nut, then cut a slot in the top with a 1mm blade on an angle grinder that you can put a large flatblade screw driver in to hold the top of the shock still when removing/installing. Go for a drive without your bonnet on and watch your shocky, you'll see how much they move when going over bumps. Plus driving without a bonnet is badass.

Ummmm like 4 sets? Not sure. But i think 4 or 5 sets. When your ready just send me an pm and we can go from there.

Yeah, I still have a few sets left. I've just been really lazy about advertising them.

Relevant to current topic: http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/38970-20mm-thick-alloy-front-suspension-shock-tower-spacer/

No, sorry. All the ones in the link above are 4 bolt units. We need 3 bolt. And i've never seen anyone atcually running them either. IMO for the cost, you may as well lash out and buy tubular upper arms. Can kill 4 birds with 1 stone. I did it all myself because i hate spending money. The walkthrough on how i did it is in the forum somwhere i think.

Cute, That aint low, Do a UCA drop and lower it another inch at the front, Then your balljoint will have a bad time =P http://i346.photobucket.com/albums/p425/crazy2287/Blue%20Betty/IMGP1687_zps4dc3419c.jpg http://i346.photobucket.com/albums/p425/crazy2287/Blue%20Betty/Pretty%20betty/DSCF0341edit_zpsd8d0cdd5.jpg But then, As posted in a pic a couple of pages ago, the balljoints can take a fair hiding hammering into the edges of the cup of the balljoint without snapping. Not that i'd like to test it.

Is anyone here running the wedges? Running low profile tires on 17's will make the car look like it's lifted compared to a set of 19's. My falcon does not look that low but I'm running the Shelby drop with modified upper ball joint mounts and trans tunnel enlarged to stop the tail shaft from hitting.

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this but it looks like you NEED to get some stiff shocks. Did someone say you had munroes? Throw them in the bin. Useless if your running a car at this height.

hmmm. i usually try to remove with hammer and dolly. If that dont work i go fork separator. if that don't work i get a bigger hammer. if it still don't come off i get my biggest hammer and belt it till something brakes... The joint, the fork, the hammer, or me. Something always gives 100% of the time Guaranteed something will separate. I've never had to go as far as using heat but that might be what you gotta do if it really is that stuck? You have taken the nut off right? =P

And this if yoir a cheapass http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/4-pcs-7inch-36W-CREE-LED-WORK-LIGHT-BAR-OFFROAD-DRIVING-LAMP-SPOT-54w-72w-27w-/112058048011?nav=SEARCH Just pull the end caps off and silicone around the seal, around the screw heads and it should atcually be waterproof.

Have a look at the led bar ants put on his wagon. Probably get a pair like that on ebay for well under 100 bucks. Put out more light than traditional spottys (just not focused as good but perfect for spotting roos and wombats) and use 1/8th the power

2016... Not using LED light bars. C-mon guys, even the cheap nasty ebay ones work a treat (just dont trust the water tightness rating) Filament lights have had their day. Boly on LED light bar and your wont look back. The light is very white and oncomming street signs can dazzel you a bit. Its also not the best if your after improved depth perception, warm white to yellow is better, but i find it keeps me More alert than the soft light from filent globes. Tbh ill never fit a filament light as a high beam again. HID or LED.

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1972-guide-troubleshooting-fuel-level-display-capacitive-probe/

Put a volts Gage on it. If it drops below 13v with all ur electrics on then maybe.

Well i dunno broken-wheel, But no matter what I do my 120A alternator smashes belts. I've tried different brands, tensions and had the alternator installed in 2 positions. I don't run a mechanical water pump anymore so all it's turning is the alternator. and it slowly eats belts away. There is a built up of belt materiel in an arc around the alternator that lands on the eng, rad support and bonnet, It was never a problem when i was turning it below 4500rpm but now i'm going up to 5800 the belts hate it. It's a bosch brand 120A universal. Could be I am a one off case but I'm generally pretty pedantic with my installs and all i can deduce is it's a combination of the load supplied by a 120A alternator it spinning that fast. I can only imagine a 140A would be worse. Happy to be proven otherwise.

Get your original alternator, Gut it, and mod the rear housing to accept the internals out of your new alternator.

Stop please. I do not want these feels.