Crazy2287

will supply enough juice at 43psi for 220RWHP max http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1489-crossflow-efi-stock-fuel-pump-performance/ Stock Barra injectors are 36lb from memory? so they will outflow the pump. IMO it will work on a stock engine, But if you do any mods at all you're gonna be pushing your luck.

That will be fine. E series will bolt on but you cant use the e series hardware (bolts). Well i assume thie mostly, but i have a xf throttle body bolted to an e-series manifold so i'd assume it works both ways.

Yeah, I reworked a dash recently also. I'd say 20% of the solder joints needed re working. Inspect them with a 5x or 10x magnifying glass and a bright light. Before you solder make sure the area ia clean, if not, wipe with a brush or cloth/tissue (like that super cheap toilet paper that kinda halfway between ricepaper and copypaper, or a "kimwipe") and pure ethanol, acetone or for best results use isopropanol. and add a dab of solder flux/resin to the joint before heating and re flowing it. That will give you the best reflow possible without having to add and remove the solder.

On it josh, I was running DBA roo paw slotted standard hub replacements in the front, RDA slotted non ventilated rear (E-Series diff) and Bendex ULT's all round. It went well at a couple of track days, But the last time i was out i was going faster then ever before, for longer. Plus I am armature to tend to lean on the brakes a bit too much(?). The From my fading memory, result was solid braking for about 4 hard laps. before the pads over temped, I pushed em a bit after that and completely destroyed em. Now they are a crumbling mess. Bendex ULT's are rated max temp of about 500ºc. The ULT's are a little noisy and a little dusty on the street, but give sufficient initial bite on a cold rotor to be suitable for street use. That sort of effort would be very hard to attain on the street, and you definitely should not try doing it. That is about 5 minutes of constantly pulling a full weight (minus back seat and spare) XF falcon sedan up from up to 160km/h down to cornering speed, at least 6 applications or once every 12 seconds. That setup would be more then enough for a street application.

As touched on already. Drilled and slotted rotors are not high performance. They are for looks only. They will work fine on the street. For street duty with street pads. And probably fine for drag racing too. And the once a year trackday if you don't push em. If you are road racing on dirt or tar you need a good rotor. Either flat or slotted. Slotted can cause early pad failure if you run hectic pads and don't bed in properly. Diameter helps with stopping where as thickness and ventilation type are for cooling. Curved vane been the better as it makes a more efficient "pump" to move air. Don't get confused though. "High performance" in this context is not something required on the street unless you're driving like a fuckwit. (seriously, slow down) A decent pad is all most people need. I want to road race, intending on importing a willwood mustang big brake kit. It's a proper functional upgrade, not what the local kits usually are, just a big inappropriate rotor with low temp calipers and pads. This kit is for race. But it's not cheap at around 2500 dollarydoos.

Nice. Them coils look suspiciously like a branded version of the IGN-1CD .... https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ign-1cd-capacitive-discharge-coil/

Yes, I still have some: http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/38970-20mm-thick-alloy-front-suspension-shock-tower-spacer/ But I'm out of the correct grit paper to polish them. There are no local suppliers for fine P orby paper in nowra so i'll have to source form a paint supplier, and i don't fancy polishing by wet rub. I do intend to polish them all up, then put up a sale thread for them, Because then people wont have to wait for me to screw around as i'll get them all ready to ship. Until then i can sort unpolished (Raw) ones though, if your in a rush.

FYi if you use steel in the system then don't dun ethanol. Stick with stainless, ally, PTFE and SAE30 R9 (or the low pressure equivalent?) if you wanna run meth/eth

Hmm? i thought AN (JIC) specified an internal diameter, so all things in the size should be that internal minimum? But then, I made my system out of 37º flairs and JIC 6 male fittings and they all seemed to maintain internal diameter. Other fitting types could be different.

Ando is 100% correct, the pumps are usually rated at 14.4ish volts so if your onky at 12v flow will be less. But it is eazy to check flow rate on the system once assembeled. If yiur keen on a flashy setup bro and have the coin then do it. Trick fuel systems just look so baller. You'd be better off going 3/8 through the whole system if you can. Elbows and fittings are generally the biggest restriction. If your going for a flashy system, use dash 6 bulkhead fittings through the sender unit. Search for them on ebay as JIC dash 6 bulkhead or similar to that

Who knows, they want people to think they need 300 dollar overkill pumps? Have been told heaps of bogus bullshit from "professionals" before. I dont expect that to ever change. Just the other day i was talking to a technical expert at castrol as he stumbeled his way through explaining how the professional grade edge 0w40 was different to the retail one of the same name, till i told him i need to know for sure as im doing trend analysis on the oils and i can't do it if the oils are gonna be different. Then he had to tell me how he dosent think the analysis will pick up a difference between the oils... Or how RRS say the coil strut suspension is thebfkn beez knees but don't tell you anything about the geometry issues it will cause with the wet noodle that is the front of an x-series. Or when castlemain tell you the willwood brake kits they make are custom machined and no off shelf will fit but they wont give you dimentions or explian about how they custom machine them. And all along you know that 72 mustangs have identical spindals to xfal and willwood make off the shelf kits for them.

That faucet/solid state pump supplies 2.16l per minute and you only need 1.7l per minute to support 350HP. So you're not going to need 2 in parallel. Don't worry about a return, and if your not running e85, stick with the factory fuel line. I think Gerg is onto something here, if your not after anything flashy then just KISS it. Keep It Simple Stupid.

Not experienced in it, but i know the stock brakes with good rotors and bendex ult's which is a semi high temp pad would stand up to road race for about 4-6 laps at wakefield. Which is about 8 minutes of punishing the brakes before the pads failed. And thats 100 times worse than what you could ever safely do to them on the street. But anyway, the brakes maintained good authority over the wheels for that, Running 17's with 245/45's from memory. If you go a larger wheel you will eventually overpower the brakes, ie you cannot get enough friction on the brake to overpower the torque applied by the wheel, you'll have to stand harder on the brakes. And you may not get the same stopping power as you would with a smaller wheel diamater. I have no idea how big is too big... To expand a bit. You have 2 things going on here. The authority or bias of the brakes and the amount of heat they can dissipate. The heat is generated from speed vs weight and the inertia of the wheels. the authority is the the rotor diameter vs wheel diamater and the type of friction material used in the pad and rotor. You have too much speed and weight you'll make a lot of heat. And something will fail. Higher temp pads, more surface area (width, venting type and dimater) of the rotor or better airflow (ducting) can be used to cool. If your brake system is functioning properly, you put your foot on the brake till you cannot push any harder and cannot lock up the wheels. You dobt have enough stopping power. You can reduce traction (booooo) reduce wheel diamater, increase rotor diamater or Increase friction coefficent(pad and/or rotor material). To make sure you have enough authority to utilise all that traction you have. This is my understanding.

As has already been said, if your not road racing then upgrade with slotted dba rotors and suitable pads. Most them big brake upgrade packages are not suitable for road race anyway and are more for show. On a street xseries, if your not running too big a tire stock is fine.

Rog, so the ZF's are picky about trans oil temp. Whats it gotta be? around 80-90ºC?

Can you not just bypass it completely with an external oil to air cooler?

If stock engine just use a stock coil, Replace whatever is on there with the one of the same likeness as then you wont need to change brackets or wiring. If your modding the engine you could look at something like a Bosch MEC718 or HEC716, the 716 being the better choice. That ad you linked does not list the brand or number. It's likely a Bosch copy of a HEC716 if it's been restickered? Genuine stuff is Bosch or motorcraft.

The injectors don't need to be bottomed out to seal, Even from factory you can move em up and down. Think i got about 1mm or so in mine with the new rail. It probably helps seat them, having them floating as opposed to having a tight longitudinal fit and potentially loaded when things are bolted down, changing temp and/or flexing.

I've sourced all my fittings by just typing "JIC" into ebay. Had stuff from aus, china, hong kong, USA and Britain. Am yet to have any major complaint with any of it. It is typically made from a soft ally, your not actually meant to use metal tools on it as it will damage the fittings. I made my whole system by converting everything to 37º 3/8th flares and dash 6. one thing, the ally jic dose not like sealing against stainless hardline, So takes a bit of care when making the flares to get a good seal. But that's enough of that, Enjoy screwing it together!, As much as it costs, and as much as it is overkill for a pressure system operating at <100psi, It is pretty fun screwing them fittings together. Something about it just feels good. Looks mint too.

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+1 on the vikings, Rob has them in the front of his ute. Baller setup. Let us know how you go WRT the rears, I'll be looking for something for the back of the XF sedan in.. well prolly a year its a long way down the list.

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It's unlikely running spacers with short shocks will create any issues. Lowered x-fals have mammoth amounts if down travel. But most cost effective solution would install it all. Run em for a few km and check if you need spacers. If u dont need spacers, you don't need em. Biggest bit of advice i can give is make sure you get a stiff shock if running low springs.