Crazy2287

You'll have to burrow a sniffer, or buy a wideband and gauge combo and built it into your own sniffer. Or buy a stand alone wideband and permanently install it.

Yeah. Sniffer is an o2 sensor on a clamp that you can fit temporarily to the tailpipe.

Chuck a wideband sniffer in and adjust the vein to get favourable afr. Should run okay. Interested to hear how it goes.

Have had an ultra king do this, and the shock oil went all over the spring saddle and away bar bushes and they fell to bits too. An XF ghia had these fitted when I got it. I found the valving the ultra king quite firm, and I like a firm shock. Just this happened. I'm pretty sure Ultima are not ultra king. Ultima come with a very good warranty. Have em in my 4x4 and in the Elgrand. No issues here. And my local suspension mob gave em a solid plug.

I'm running max stiff in the rear. (Only have koni in rear) It depends on what you want, street strip or drag. You generally want rebound to be firmer then compression. But this also depends on spring rate. Also how high is the car and how far from the bump stops. I use a stiff shock in the rear to stop my tail shaft slapping the tunnel. And for track.

I have 3, 10 Dolla meters for all my garbage work. Only get the good one out for electronics. And surpringly, the one time I had a meter screw me around for bad volts reading it was my good one, reading incorrectly due to a low battery. So even if your spending $100 bucks on a meter it's still not really reliable until your getting a quality brand unit and then it may be costing multiple hundreds. I did have a 600 Dolla meter and the screen shit itself just out of warranty.

Thanks for the heads up! But I'm not surprised... Not even a little bit... Now i want to test my fuses. This can and should be applied to anything you purchase, especially from ebay and ESPECIALLY if it looks like its from china. It's easier to assume that what your buying has been manufactured to the poorest standard they can get away with, and the advertising is a great big lie. Then you gotta ask yourself "What are the consequences if what i purchase is the worst case scenario" And if the consequences are acceptable. You can continue with the purchase. I could go on but i wont. Suffice to say, always be skeptical. I've even caught Jaycar peddling the same low quality Chinese garbage. (Disclaimer: Not everything from china is garbage. But it's all definitely high risk) I like his Milliohm meter. The ones I use are cumbersome devices and connecting them to the target is usually frustrating due to having 4 contact points. His one has integrated each contact into 1/2 of the alligator clip.

DXIII, as has already been stated, Is the Tremec approved oil for WC T5 gearboxes. IMO, Don't run additives as a general rule. But i have used G70 in T5's before, with no harm done. But this was before I learnt what I now know about oils. If you want to learn some garbage, read on. Otherwise you can stop here. Experimentally i recently did research for a fully synthetic replacement for DXIII that would be suitable for the T5. To help it with Heat and pressure stress from track use (abuse?) I have since started using Pentrite ATF FS. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/atf-fs-full-syn#/ I purchased a 20L drum and use it (almost) wherever DXII or DXIII is specified. I have only done about 5,000km so far with the oil in my T5, and am having good results thus far. However it is way too early to say there wont be long term issues. So if you want the safe bet, go DXIII. I decided to use Penrite ATF FS as an experement in my T5 since my 2nd-3rd shift under power was blocking. I suspected it was rooted and am expecting to replace (or rebuild) the box sometime. But after replacing the DXIII oil with ATF FS, shifting in all gears has improved and the shift up to 3rd does not block me under power anymore. To expand on that, the oil i removed was stressed, having been used for a track day. So simply replacing the oil with fresh DXIII may have had the same effect. So don't go running around telling people that the ATF FS will fix shitty T5's. To expand on that, Tremec themselves do TELL us in the T5 manual, to change the oil regularly. Especially in severe use conditions. Using a fully synthetic may improve longevity of the oil when compared to DXIII. This is all just conjecture. And without spending a lot of time and money driving, switching oils and doing oil trend analysis, that is not going to change. If someone wants to sponsor me i'll go ahead and get started? No? ... Damn

oil pressure is a balance between restriction to flow and flow capacity. Capacity (C) comes from the pump and increases with RPM. Restriction is caused by the viscosity (V) of the oil and the sum of all of the size of the gaps your pushing it though (T). I guess it could look like P = (CxRPM)/(VxT) Pressure and flow (F) in the system are inversely related. P=/=F F = CxRPMxTxV You need to use whichever oil gives the flow you require, and provides sufficient film strength to protect the moving components. Do not be alarmed if your digital gauge is only showing 2 bars of pressure when at operating temp and at idle. This is fine. I would be more alarmed if your pressure was 2 bars over half when full. There is a misconception that thick oil = better protections and this is not always the case. Having oil that is too thick increases the risk of damage from thermal fracturing and Shearing of the VI's. It also reduces the ability of the oil to cool and increases load on the rotating assembly and the oil pump, costing efficiency. Too thin and it wont provide sufficient film strength. There's obviously a lot more science in oils but i think that should sort you out.

Give us a pic or a link mate. Usually the lower mount/pivot on the alternator can be pressed to a new position. So you should only have to align the top mount...

If your keeping the crossflow and stock EFI, then keep the engine stock. No point fucking around chucking money at it to go faster while it's got the factory EFI. Carbys work, but it is 2018. You can put an aftermarket EFI solution on fully installed for under $1k if you do it yourself. Then tune it as cranky/mental as you want with all the benefits that come with efi and after market computer (full tuneability) If you were smart you would fit a Barra and be done with it. There are a few of us that have a disease and love spending money on crossflows to go slow. Myself included. But I know deep down I could have spent half on a Barra conversion and gone twice as fast.

I used mine to do several engines (before one of my mates burrowed it and fucked it somehow) I removed the top bit,, cut the cups off that goes over the valve spring, and welded some flat steel in there, then reattached the cups. I did it in such a way as to correct the alignment of the tool when it is clamped. Before i did this, the tool was, as you say, useless. But after the mod i used it several times on a couple different engines over the course of a few years. I'd take a pic to show what i mean but i never got it back.

Have heard about this. I Though I had quite a bit wound into the front but still heaps of room. Maby it's because I run small tires? The wheel alignment guy reconed it was too much caster, even for track work and we agreed to take .5 off it. Heaps of clearance to the bumper. Still oversteers well before under steering, so there is no need to go more agressive (yet)

You will have plenty of adjustability in both camber and caster. Don't worry about it too much.

Your grease mod for those bushes, the pivot pin clamps the gussett/centre sleeve when the pivot is done up. All the rotating is done on the inner. Or did you drill right through the bush so the grease gets to the inner?

Flying into Queenstown on wednesday next week. If you get a cam before then I can bring it over for ya.

If you have adjustable timing gear you can always advance or retard the cam to get the peak torque where you need it. So don't be too scared of getting a cam that says it performs at 5500 RPM because you can just put in a couple of degrees advanced and bring that torque down to the 4500 RPM Mark.

Hey I'm digging this. Already turning out to be an awesome diy thread!

I never scraped the guard with 245's and I've not rolled the guard. I dunno how low you guys are going but from a steering geometry point of view it's not fiesable to have a 17" wheel tucking in the front of an Xfal. Even with all my mods it would be difficult to get the wheel to tuck in practice and cornering performance would suffer if I did. Not to mention banging off the ball joint or bumpstops. I pulled the spring out and even with modded ball joint mount this is as much tuck as can be acheaved at ball joint bind. And in the rear, my tailshaft hits the tunnel, even though I've cut and raised the tunnel. And the rears don't tuck. So if you want to tuck, your gonna need bigger than 17's or run big sidewall truck tyres.

245's on 17" rims and Shelby drop. would rub on bump stop plates. Was not real bad, took a long time before it started to get through the paint. 3 mm offset or spacer would have sorted it in my case. I'm running homemade bumpstops now so heaps of clearance.

One thing to consider. How much are you spending on suspension? Spring saddels 200 Shocks 400 Lowered springs 350 ... For 1000 bucks you can upgrade both sides with coil overs and this gives fully adjustable shock and ride height and a rose joint lower mount onto the UCA.

Polyurethane for the radius rod bush. If you want a performance improvement that's one of the big ones. I would not expect it to increase road noise much if at all since it works as a fulcrum on such a big lever that has no longitudinal load unless under braking. The lever should absorb the majority of the noise.? I've not noticed an increase of road noise on the 3 xfals I've done, but I have definitely noticed the turn in and mid corner improve dramatically.

Urethane UCA bushes recommended. Will help car maintain suspension geometry and removes issues with preload in the rubber bush type. Spring saddels can't say, I've replaced with rubber and never had an issue. Yes, UCA Drop will cause the pivot to foul on the tower. I used a heavy ball pein hammer to massage the tower for extra room, and ground the pivot a little. When UCA drop is done upper ball joint gets dangerously close to binding. And the UCA will foul on the tower at the pivot at max travel. I've done a thread on this: Also, if you try to slam it you will eventually destroy your bumpstops as when using the drop the UCA does not hit the bump stop square. I made my own bump stops to fix this, which gave me more clearance for wider tires but you could also mod the upper arm if tires don't foul.