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MNTL.XD

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Posts posted by MNTL.XD

  1. Posted

    Something must be leaking but its completely dry until a decent drive so i guess its heating up and steaming through?
    Shes got no rust and it definitely happens after a week of no rain...



    The carpet itself might be dry, your problem will most likely be wet/damp carpet underfelt from (as dean and valvebouncer said) either leaky plenum or heater core. Usually heater core leak will be passenger side and plenum leak will be drivers side.
    Pull your carpet back and have a look.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

    Outback Jack reacted to this

  4. Posted

    You would obviously have your front to rear fader set correctly, but have you got the square thing on the display set correctly? It can be set to bias the driver, bias front passengers or rear passengers. Is that set so it's going to all passengers?
    (Asuming you know what the hell i'm on about).

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

    uterus reacted to this

  6. Posted

    Subscribed, i'd be interested to know myself, very similar (pretty much identical) combo to mine. What cam were you running previously and what power did it make?

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

  10. Posted

    With the bellhousing still bolted to the engine, undo and remove the torque convertor nuts, grab one of the studs and move it side to side, if the torque convertor is fully engaged on the pump the convertor studs should move freely in their little flexplate hole. If the studs don't move you will need to remove the box and fit the convertor onto the pump~drive correctly if it hasn't already damaged the pump, you might be lucky.

    'Nova reacted to this

  11. Posted

    Coming along nice, much better off doing it right first shot, even if it does take a little longer, it will be justified in the finished product. Great work removing the risen section, looks like it was never there.

    I'm keen to see the cool body work start. Hehe.

     

    *************************************

    Click on the link below to view my build thread.

    http://www.ozfalcon....l-xd-the-build/

    ando76, ricktewagon and deankxf reacted to this

  16. Posted

    No mate, if you have an external cooler they don't need to be hooked up to the radiator at all, although you can run them through both if you want to.

    If you aren't running the cooler lines through the radiator, you will not need to block off the holes in the rediator where the cooler lines used to go, nothing will leak.

  18. Posted

    Yep, just put a 9" in my XD using the same tailshsft that was in my Borg Warner. You just need the uni to fit which is a mix match uni, to suit Borg Warner tailshaft size to 9" diff.

    I can give you the part number if you need it. Cheers.

    xwroo reacted to this

  19. Posted

    I just put a 9" in my XD, i had to change the uni which was a cross breed bloody thing, 1/2 borgy 1/2 9". I can find the part number for you if needed.

    I also had to change the diff to chassis rubber brake line. One was at 90° and one was at 45° to the diff.

    I also had to buy new brake lines, the breather tube on my diff was in a different spot to the barg warner so the lines were different lengths, if your diff came with brake lines you might be ok.

     

    Is it a disc brake diff or drum?

     

    Does it have mounts for the handbrake cable or are they on your leaf spring mounts?

     

    Edit** U bolts were interchangeable.

    xwroo reacted to this

  22. Posted

    Good work mate, good to see you're still getting heaps done!

    It will be interesting to see how well the cortina guards fit, if you need to make any alterations like envyxf had to do to his Falcon guards, even if you do i s'pose it's pretty easy to work with. In addition to the fibreglass bonnet i guess there would be a fair bit of a weight reduction, you should do a comparison of you have the metal panels there.

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