MNTL.XD

Banana peels should see another 10,000ks out of it yet! Hehe

Oh the possibilities, i'd love to do another crossy one day, the clevo will just have to do for now. lol.

+1

Fark yeah!! Putting a clevo between the shocker towers is like putting bigger balls between your legs. Haha.

A turbo'd 200ci was the quickest 6cyl in Australia wasn't it? Was in a blue Cortina from memory. Would've revved nicely. lol. Would probably be a good thing to have, quick as fk and a bit different to everyone else.

I'm building a 9" at the moment, rebuilding and changing to 3.5:1 gears. I've been told to just do the crush nut on the pinion with the rattle gun and guess it, it'll be good enough, but i think i'd be best off doing it right first time while i have it apart and forgetting about it. Whaddaya reckon Chestnut? A big difference between being done right and not?

I had an FMX then went to a C10. I think it might've been when we first put the C10 in come to think of it. (It was over 10 years ago now since i went to the C10.) I guess FMX's are the same, unless the pump's in a different place or something, i don't know to be honest. If not atleast you know now for when you do go to a C4/C10.

Haha, yeah but it's a 10 minute check that will save a couple of hours and a couple of hundred $$. Up to you bud, if you're confident you got it right it should be ok. I was pissed right off when i done it so thought i'd share the info anywho. Cheers.

To be sure, a quick check is to undo the convertor nuts and see if you can easily move the convertor by one of the studs. It should be able to move (wiggle) as much as the hole will let it. It might've already done the damage but you might be able to save it by checking it and fixing it before you start it.

Not going on properly although it feels like it has. It goes on the shaft in 3 stages, alot of the time they have only gone on 2 stages and people bolt them up like that which stuffs the pump. With the convertor bolts lined up with the holes in the flex plate the motor and box should mate together perfectly and freely, and the convertor studs should move freely inside the flex plate holes. Never use the bellhousing bolts to pull the engine and box together!

My crane's same as yours, doesn't fit under the lower control arms. I have to jack the car up by the control arms to get the bloody thing under, or to get it out once the engine's in. Just something to look out for if you haven't used that engine crane before, a quick couple of measurements now might save alot of time and effort when you go to put it in... or you can just jump down the drain again! lol.

Yeah, there's quite a few different ways to put them in, just make sure you can get that R/H extractor on before disconnecting the crane and fitting everything. I made that mistake too many times not to suggest it to others, that and stuffing the auto pump from not fitting the convertor properly, i think everyone's done that, a mistake i'll never make again!! lol Gotta love a clevo out the extractors!!

Correct me if i'm wrong but i think 250's only came with C4's and B/W's.

Hahaha funny as fk, would've loved to have seen that!! Heaps easier to bolt them on first, well, the r/h one anyway. L/h shit easy. But then again i don't put the g'box on first either, i put it in from underneath once the engines in, not that it makes much difference either way, you just don't have to angle the engine back so far when putting it in. Biggest hurdle is getting my big ass engine crane to fit under the car! (Same as yours by the looks)

I put mine in with the R/H extractor fitted. Once the engine's in i can't get the extractor in from the top and can only get it in from the bottom if i remove the steering box. Much easier to get to the bolts on that extractor when it's out anyway so win/win. From memory when i had the fmx in i had to have atleast one extractor off to get it in or out because it wouldn't fit between them. Mine had a 2200rpm convertor which was a standard convertor modified with the fins on a different angle, i don't remember who it was through but was an exchange job for $400. Edit* Mine are 4 into 1 'Perry' extractors.

That looks mint!! I like!!

Love the door trims and parcel shelf. Suit it well!!

It'll make no difference whatsoever to the spring mounting pads. You are only taking 50mm off the end of the diff. These are welded to the end of your diff, grind the weld off to get them out, cut 50mm off the end of the diff and weld them back on: Of course when you go to put your axles back in they will be 50mm too long, so have them cut 50mm and the splines extended 50mm. I've never done it before but that's what i make of it, unless you're mini tubbing?

Oh ok. You may be able to go with less backspacing than 5" then, giving a deeper dish. A standard XD with a standard width XD diff will run a 0 offset wheel (5" backspace with a 10" wheel.) You'd have to check if yours IS 0 offset or not.

Is yours XW? (Going by your profile name) Is it the shorter than standard length? You might need to do some measuring if you haven't already.

http://www.autoanything.com/wheels-rims/wheel-offset-vs-wheel-backspacing

Nah, sorry to confuse. A 10" rim with 5" backspace will have 5" dish. 1/2 the rim exposed at the back and 1/2 at the front, so it's central. If it has 4 1/2" backspace it will have 5 1/2" dish. If it has 4" backspace it will have 6" dish and so on.

Yep, sure do. You're effectively moving the centre inward or outward inside the rim. 10" with 5" backspace will give you 5" dish. Usually 1/2 and 1/2 like that with 5 at the front and 5 at the back is what most guys have on the rear of Fords. Seems to be a perfect fit.

Shit, brand new King springs are only $500!

That looks awesome! I can see alot of love has gone into that. It shows.