MNTL.XD

I'd say both sections for both models would sell really well Rod. EVERYBODY'S chasing them, yet nobody makes them. You could be rich! Rich i tells ya!

Yep, they sure do Bear, this shifter has it...

Definitely!

Rod?

Hey dude, they are pretty easy to fit and setup, they're bolted in with 2 bolts at the front and 2 at the back, the factory shifter hole simply gets plated over and sealed. A larger hole in front of the shifter where the cable goes through will need to be drilled and a grommet fitted to seal the cable. Pic from driver side: (the only thing really visible from this side is the wiring for the shiter light) Pic from passenger side: (as part of hiding the engine bay wiring i deleted the ugly wiring that goes across the firewall and to the gearbox, these were pulled back into the cabin and run directly to the gearbox under the carpet, wiring for reverse lights and neutral safety switch are on this side, you can also see the wiring that goes through the floor to the speedo sender. What you can't really see is the cable running through the floor in front of the shifter.) Here if you look closely you can see where the cable comes through the floor, it runs around in a loop, goes through a bracket (supplied) bolted to the side of the 'box, and to the selector lever (also supplied). To fit this you put the 'box in reverse, spin the connector (red) up the threaded rod until it lines up with the selector lever, poke it through and put a washer and splitpin through the other side (i also fitted a nut). Easier than having a shit.

Apparently you can make them fit the FMX 'box, here's a link. http://therooseveltexperiment.com/blog/2011/06/21/using-a-bm-cable-shifter-with-a-ford-fmx-transmission/ I have the B&M Mega shifter, it's apart at the moment so easy to get pics of so will put some up soon.

Hey guys, i need a uni-joint to link my standard XD tailshaft to my new 9" diff, i'm pretty sure it is different to the Bargwarner uni. What brand/type would you suggest? Part number? TIA

American Autos sell the RUJ-2029 for $46.50. https://www.americanautos.com.au/cgi-bin/fccgi.exe?w3exec=aap.control&session=1772663277230328&formname=groups&newform=product&option=RUJ2029

Thanks Bear, i've googled shit out of it and finally found info on it just now, for future reference: To fit a 6cyl Falcon tailshaft to a 9" diff you need a special uni-joint which is 1/2 an RUJ-2038 and 1/2 an RUJ-2039. The correct part number for this uni is RUJ-2029.

I'm running a genuine Bosch too. I sent it in with my cam sheet and had it curved to suit and a new vac unit fitted. $450 or something stupid he charged!!

1000ks and your only trouble is a couple of little oil leaks on an engine you built yourself, well done sir!

Hendrixhc used Scorpion roller rockers on his XE, he's had no trouble with them yet so they must be pretty good. Hehe.

I put a 3.45 LSD out of a BA XR8 ute in our BA wagon (3.23) last year.

Ohhh yeah!! Those were the days!!

Hey guys. When my XD was painted the bumpers, grilles and mirrors were painted in 2k black. One was broken by a bloke with a fat ass who was told to be careful walking through as it was parked close to another car, seconds later.... SNAP!! Grrr!! Anyhoo, i got a new mirror and have tried to paint it in 1k but it reacted, i tried black acrylic but as soon as i put 2k clear on it, that reacted too. Both times an acrylic plastic adhesive primer was used. Do i need to use a 2k adhesive primer instead of the acrylic primer? I have painted all my steering and suspension (metal) in black enamel with a 2k clear which has never reacted, using the same paint on the plastic also resulted in it reacting, again, acrylic plastic primer was used. The reaction each time was very wrinkly, almost looked like the mirrors had caught worms off the fkn dogs! I'm sick to fkng death of going to all the trouble of taking these back to bare plastic so they can be resprayed because of reactions. Is it the aftermarket plastic at fault? Is it the acrylic plastic primer? Do i need to use a 2k primer/sealer over the acrylic plastic primer? I read something saying 2k plastic primers are no different at all to the acrylic. Any advice appreciated. TIA. Edit* I really need this mirror painted in 2k black with a clear coat. I haven't tried 2k plastic primer, then 2k black basecoat, then the 2k clear (that seems to react with everything else when used on this mirror). Is there any particular type of 2k paint i need to be buying?

I kept the XD for a couple of years, a cheap ass enamel respray as mentioned, lowered, 2" exhaust, a cheapy ($105) set of hotwire mags, i fitted an alloy head, a modified 500 Holley and cain manifold which came on an ex speedway head so wouldn't know what was done to it if anything, a torquey little tow cam, dropped the diff ratio to 3.5, entered a burnout comp at Casterton drags, and generally flogged fuck out of it everywhere it went using valve springs as a limiter. lol.

I done the opposite, ripped the house paint off and sprayed it in white industrial enamel, the car was fubar so there wasn't much point trying to make it last any more than the next 2 years, more just needed to keep the cops off my back.

Oh shit, that's 10 times the paintjob mine had! Atleast it had enough shine to bother with polish! I'll have to try to dig up a pic!

Nah 2 coats with a brush, only one with a roller, makes up for it. Mine had absolutely no shine at all = interior paint! It was never going to either look good or survive the rain. The more it rained the thinner it got until pink body filler spots started to appear, you could see almost every repair underneath!

Haha yeah mate, fully optioned with custom roller paint package, i paid $1 for the car and $799 for the paint option! Worth every dollar, mainly the first one! PMSL.

My first XD was painted in house paint. Done with a roller though. lol. Everytime it rained there would be a big white rectangle on the road when i drove off! Paddock bomb with number plates!

Thanks mate! I've been flat out with everything else this week so haven't had a chance to get back into the mirror yet. I've got some 2k primer/sealer so that should be perfect. Hopefully get a chance to get back into the mirror this coming week so i'll keep you posted. Cheers Revhead!

Thanks heaps guys, very much appreciated. I have had to sand the mirror back with 120 to get through the paint, now i have the fun job of working my way down through the grades on by bloody one until smooth. I'll let you know how i go. Cheers.

Not letting the acrylic completely dry out before using the 2k clear probably has alot to do with it Judgetread, i was pretty much using it wet on wet only really only giving 20 minutes or so between product change, not putting into consideration the 2 different drying techniques. Unfortunately i don't have any pics of the reaction, probably the best description would be a wrinkle finish, almost as if the paint had shrunk. Revhead- i had only wiped with gp thinners which i've always done with hard plastics, it definitely wasn't a fish eyes type reaction. Am i best off keeping all products 2k to be sure? http://www.lesonal.co.uk/Products/Pages/2kuniversalplasticprimer.aspx