Searley

Hi and Thanks SParKy_Dave. Mr. Fathead did send his e-mail and I got them away in segments of 3 @ a time. I'm getting more skilled at this stuff. They did'nt teach me this Stuff @ School.

Hello Mr. Fathead. I've got the Kirby Bishop Power  Str Pages Scanned 1-13 and a Spare Parts Numbers Page. However its not Uploading for me. I have'nt got Tapatalk. If you want to send me an e-mail address so I can send as an Attachments. Unless somebody knows another way.Let me know. Thanks. My e-mail is (edited removed )

I'll Pause The Party and Drinking and Get Right on to it!

11 hours ago, deankdx said:

@Searley the power steering question was answered here thanks.!

11 hours ago, deankdx said:

@Searley the power steering question was answered here thanks.!

Good Morning. Yes Thats Good. I might just Scan it tonite and put it on anyway. Have a Great Safe Happy New Years Eve Day!

 So a 178 rwkw would feel like  "Whoopeee"

On 6/18/2013 at 12:37 AM, Thom said:

Ok so a few people have been chasing info on 4.0ls lately, so over some period of Time I will start posting what I know about 4.0ls as I have played with them for years , this first post is taken directly from a post i made in ph351's thread earlier today,<br /> Ef and early El are the same, late El.used a Au style head and crank, without the longer con rods (if you see an El engine with the prefix wr2axxx cat into it it's an Au style head with 1.8:1 ratio rockers compared to the earlier 2:1 ratio) and the camshafts don't interchange between the two ratios, Ef or El cam be set up for a distributor or coil packs (ea- can also be setup for coil packs but it requires a Ef/El timing cover, also to change from v belts to sepentine belt requires Ef/El timing cover and balancer *note v belts cannot be used with a Ef/El timing cover with stock brackets) pre Au: ea's have the strongest rods, ef's have the best crank (12 counterweights compared to 8 on all other e series) Ef/El blocks are better as they have oil restrictors in the top of the block to prevent to much oil in the head at high rpm (makes for more stable valve train above 4000rpm) ea cam is the biggest for made for a 4.0l (except xg xr6 but good luck finding one) and cannot be used on a Au without custom rockers, xr6 head use standard intake valves with a larger exhaust valve, they were also a different casting from a standard head with similar intake Ports but a much better exhaust port (the best xr6 heads to get have the casting no 93dt and 94Dt, the best of the non xr6 heads have the casting 94da). Au egas engines use better crank and rods than a standard petrol engine (also slightly higher comp, and an Ef xr6 head on an Au egas short nets 10:1 comp) Au engines can take a BA turbo crank and rods without machine work, Au rods are longer than e series with a hypertectic pistons (same advantage as using 3.3 rods in a 4.1 or 302 rods in a 351) a really nice Combo (what some of you will remember I had in my xh) is Au egas short motor, Ef xr6 head, ea cam, El intake with a set of extractors and a tune made 178 rwkw for less than $600<br /><br />

 Hello Thom,Just been Scoureing your Threads on the SOHC 4.0.  ?? Now if you managed to get 178 rwkw from those changes. How many rwkw/s would one get from a standard used old 4.0 sohc?  Just trying to get an idea of contrast. Thanks Hope everyone is Enjoying Election Mania.Searley.

12 hours ago, Mr Polson said:

Do NOT use second hand head bolts in a 4.0L

They are Torque to Yield, when you tighten them they are literally tightened until they are at stretching point.
Rule of thumb is any head bolt that is tightened to a degree setting instead of nM/ft lb should be replaced.

Most gasket manufacturers recommend new head bolts when replacing a head gasket regardless as well.

Hello Mr. Poulson I won't be useing 2nd hand head bolts.Jeez after all that work & money. No I was just a bit dazed and confused when I read the article on rebuilding your sohc 4.0 and a well known performance engine builder says something like that. He also prefers to torque the bolts useing n/ms or ft/lbs in a 4 step sequence not the angular method. Does that really matter? Anyway thanks Its always good to get more knowledge and expertise.

22 hours ago, Outback Jack said:

Hey Searley, Nason or similar like Permaseal, they are a decent set for not a lot of coins ,unless your going high hp ,no need for studs really.
ARP bolts for sure for flywheels etc or big end bolts.

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 Hi Outback Jack. Yes I'll go for the Nason for $50 instead of MACE for $110. They have a washer but that should'nt make much difference. That article you put out on the 3 x different types of head gaskets was Great to read. I know the car parts shops are always willing to palm off a cheaper gasket and bolts that they wanna get Rid of that might not be Suitable. 

Gooday to Everybody and I hope you are all Travelling Pretty Well. Now I'm about to Buy some Head Bolts for a sohc 4.0 and I see on E-Bay the prices can Vary from $40 to $110 before you go to ARP  Hi-Dollar stuff. Are they all the same? The MACE Engineering look better and come with a washer. And maybe they are made in Australia. I did read in a Ford magazine about a Jim Mock sohc rebuild and he said that you can use 2nd hand head bolts as long as they are in good condition!  I don't wanna stuff this up on Experiments.I bought a Enduro Tech head gasket kit that does'nt come with the Bolts Again any Advice or Opinions or Experience is Appreciated and I won't be Offended. Have a Great Nite.

Hello Fordys, I've come across stories of people mixing soluble oil (ie machinists cutting oil) with demin water to use in their cooling systems. Apparently its good for the water pump bearing and makes the water passages smooth and shiny and offers some anti-corrosion power. However this seems to be with Vintage & Veteran vehicles that would have cast-iron heads. How would a soluble oil & demin water go in todays Alloy heads? It sounds good but could it have adverse effects? Thanks for any Advice or Opinions I won't be offended.

Hello Dex, I've got a XH Longreach with the Hydratrak and also a RTV with the Dash operated Locking Diff. As gerg said they are 2 different types. As you most probably know you only need to Operate the Diff Lock when you're about to attempt to drive thru a Boggy Mushy patch of road Never Ever on the Bitumen or hard rock road Always ackowledge the GREEN light ON and Verify that its OFF when you want it OFF. Save a Big headache and Heartache and Walletache. 

Thanks Ando81 , My Diffs workd very well when it needs to right now. There must be some Hydras lying around in wrecking yards or on shelves somewhere. When you say you wheeled the houseing under do you mean the Whole diff from hub to hub or just the internals? Thanks.

Thank-You Professor gerg. I'd have to give you or anyone 11 out of 10 for that descriptive answer. There must be heaps of Hydra-Traks lying around somewhere. Cheers.

Hello OzFalcon Friends and Freaks.  I was curious to know is the XH Longreach LSD Diff called "The HydraTrak"  the same LSD as the ones in earlier Fords like an 87 FE LTD?  Its just in case the the Hydratrak  blows up and i need to replace it with something.Also got the factory workshop manual for the 87 FE LTD LSD you know. And I'd like to Wish that all The Good People on this Wonderful Forum a Safe and Happy New Years Nite and Overall a Lot Better Year for 2022 than previous.Take Care and All The Best Searley.

Hello Fordy Guys and Gals,I just purchased a 2003 XLS ute with a Barra and am Happy with it but its going into storage for a while..Can I take the Battery out for a time and then put it back in without all this Re-Programmeing I hear about on other modern cars?  Or is it Best to leave it in there and Start the motor every 3-4 days? Thanks for the Advice. Hope Everybody is Travelling well etc.

On 1/10/2021 at 2:46 PM, Outback Jack said:

OK, just thought I would put this up for people who were looking at replacing the head gasket on their 4L SOHC motor.

 

There are a few different head gaskets available for the 4L.

From left to right are....

(Left) Endurotec Composite head gasket with silicon embossed seals.

(Centre) Permaseal Composite head gasket.

(Right) Permaseal AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket with Viton coating.

 

The 4L SOHC motor from EA-EL come from the factory with a Composite style head gasket.

This has steel fire rings around the bore holes and a steel inner layer sandwiched between 2 composite layers.

 

This can also have silicon sealing rings to help with sealing water jackets , oil galleys etc as with this Endurotec Composite head gasket....

 

The 4L SOHC motor in the AU came from the factory with a Multi Layer Steel (MLS) style head gasket.

This is an aftermarket Permaseal AU style MLS head gasket.....

This is usually 3-5 layers of stainless steel with embossing around all the ports and a rubber/viton layer to help with sealing.

 

Now it is common practice for people to replace the older style factory Composite head gaskets on EA-EL with the AU style Multi Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets.

This will increase compression on the EA-EL motors as the gasket is thinner and can increase head gasket life and strength for boosted applications.

 

Now if you are rebuilding an engine and have had the head and block faces machined, it's a no brainer.

Switch to the AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket.

Just make sure you mention to the machinists you want the faces of the head and block to suit, as the MLS head gaskets require a much smoother surface on both faces for correct sealing.

Usually 15Ra-50Ra (up to MAX of 70Ra)

Blocking the surfaces may not even be enough to get a smooth enough surface.

 

Also try to avoid any sealants, install dry.

The coating on the MLS needs to be able to seal by itself and expand and contract with the steel it is bonded to.

 

But what happens if your not able to machine both surfaces?

 

What happens if the head is machined but not the block?

 

What if you have fire ring marks or corrosion marks/low spots?

 

Chances are you won't be able to get the required finish to run an MLS head gasket and get it to seal properly without machining the head and block to suit.

MLS gaskets are less forgiving of surface imperfections.

 

 

This is a block that needed a head gasket replacing. It has been block sanded already, but as you can see, there are still imperfections in the surface.

These include Fire ring marks and Corrosion marks.

The block is super smooth but has imperfections.

 

But not to fear.....

 

While machining of the block and head would be the ideal thing to do for a perfect finish, it's not always possible.

 

I suggest at LEAST the head should be machined.......

And the block then block sanded with fine wet and dry, a lubricant and alternating between 45 degrees one way, then 45 degrees the opposite way with a Large sanding block.

 

Composite head gaskets are a lot more forgiving than Multi Layered Steel head gaskets when it comes to surface finish.

They can better seal imperfections in the mating surfaces.

They require 30Ra-110Ra, which is a much rougher and wider range.

 

Composite head gaskets with silicon sealing rings can give help with dodgy water port sealing.

This doesn't mean you can just slap them in. Good surface preparation is still required.

 

Composite head gaskets can also hold boost up to about 20psi, so don't worry too much about using them on most N/A applications.

 

Better to have a head gasket that seals properly and works than a fancy one that can't because of imperfect mating surfaces.

 

This is what happens to an MLS head gasket if installed on too rough a finish.....

That was a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket, less than 500km old.

Installed by a 'mechanic'.

 

Also if installing a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket to an EA-EL motor, check the rivet on the rear of the gasket doesn't foul and get stuck between the head and block.....

The permaseal MLS-R has rather large rivets, the one on the rear will foul. The permaseal MLS has smaller rivets but I would still check the clearance.

Just a couple of things to keep in mind if deciding to go the MLS route.

 

 I could install another MLS head gasket but chances are it would fail again due to surface roughness.

 

My Composite head gasket lasted 300,000km from the factory before it failed, so if installed properly it will last.

I will leave the MLS until everything is machined properly to suit it on the next rebuild......

 

 

Happy Head Gasketing! Top Stuff Indeed Good Value !

 

Outback Jack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6 hours ago, gerg said:

As far as I know, until they developed the powdered-metal rods that you see in most engines now, all conrods were forged. I can't see Ford going to the trouble of making a separate set of conrods (for an economy engine) using a completely different manufacturing method to the garden variety 250 rods.

200 rods are nothing special in a metallurgical sense. They are just longer and are used in some 250 builds to somewhat correct the high rod angle.

As a guide, forged components will have a wider parting line than cast. It's the rough ridge down the side of the conrod's beam. It will be 5-10mm wide vs only a mm or two for cast. This was a sure-fire way of identifying forged cranks. The difference comes from moulds being liquid-tight so the halves are very close together (hence the narrow parting line). Forging dies just hammer out the final shape from a series of progressive dies while the metal is in a plastic (pliable) but not liquid state.

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Thanks Mate,That clarifys things a bit.For some reason every time I was reading about a Hotted 250 X-Flow I'd see "And its got Forged 200 Conrods which made me think that 200s were made with Special Conrods but they were'nt.Whew Thank God I did'nt dismantle all those 200 cu/in motors from U-Pull-It just for the Conrods!

6 hours ago, gerg said:

Re: the ported manifolds
@ando76 has had much experience with speedway stock classes, he would be familiar with this process. Some have been known to cut open the stock inlet manifold, port it out as they please, weld it all back together, smooth it over and carefully peen it with a hammer and 60 grit emery cloth. This gave a factory "as cast" appearance.

The method that was used a lot in the States but I haven't heard of being done here is extrude honing. They basically pump silly putty that's impregnated with abrasives, through the ports under high pressure until a certain amount of metal is removed and a decent surface finish has been achieved. They did this a lot with 5.0 Mustang manifolds as they were so long in the runners that porting was impossible. They would pick up quite a lot of power doing this, maybe 40 hp or so. It's a redundant process nowadays because it's much cheaper to just buy a good 5.0 manifold in the first place.

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Thanks Mate,Its starting to make Sense now and Takes away the "Black Art Mystery Guru Crap"!

7 hours ago, deankdx said:

there's a piston (used to be available, may still be) to fit 200 conrods in a 250, gives a better rod ratio than the stock piston/rod  not sure on strength, there'd be a few on here who'd used them. slydog from memory was using the 250 rod ratio without any issue anyway and makes bulk power(read his thread)

 

i think the speedway guys used to slice an inlet manifold in half, port the bejesus out of them and weld them back together.. "stock"  but later i saw somewhere someone had recast them using a stock one as a pattern  with better flow design.. they'd be extinct i'd guess now

 

never heard of the exhaust manifold being done, but those speedway guys needing to keep them "stock" would be right up on the rules and limits of stock parts

Thanks Mate,That helps join the Dots a lot more,Vely Interesting.I wonder which Speedway Guy was the 1st to Spark this in their Noodle?

Hello Fellow Fordys,Hope you're all going well and getting "Back To Normal" I'm Curious about the Forged Factory ConRods that appear to exist only on the 200 cu X-flow and pre-crossflow I think.Are they Better than the others? Are they worth useing in other performance applications? I look forward to reading your Replys. On another Note years ago (decade) I was surfing the net on Ford Performance sites for the 250 X-Flow and there was a Bloke who seemed to be a X-Flow Black-Art Guru Wizard who for $1500.00 each a Pop would exchange a Carby Inlet Manifold or a Cast Exhaust Manifold that would in return give so-called remarkable HP Performance increases.Everything looked the Same on the outside,no visible mods etc yet he was $Chargeing $1500.00  a Pop for each just exchange over.I've got it recorded somewhere on a Usb stick or a old PC.Does anyone have any knowledge of this bloke and what he did?I suspect he either Bored out the Inner workings a bit or soaked the insides with strong acid.Anyway Have a Good Great and Happy and Safe Weekend.And Watch out for "The Empty Headed Steering Wheel Attendants" ie TEHSWA.Best Regards Searley

On 6/25/2020 at 7:09 PM, hendrixhc said:

Cheers Searly, ill follow it up!

 Hello Mr. hendrixhc, How did you go with Mr. Total Towing? Did he let you have the Longreach for a Carton of Beer?

13 hours ago, hendrixhc said:

Cheers Searly, ill follow it up!

 And its in a Street called Hill St. Port Elliot which is off a Waterport Rd. So comeing from Goolwa going to Pt.Elliot before you get into Pt.Elliot there's a Turn right into Waterport Rd then a bout 3 kms and turn left into Hill St.Hill St is the Main Industrial Area of Pt.Elliot and the Scrap yard 3/4 way down on the Left.I have a Funny feeling about the stuff in this place.Why has this Guy got all this stuff just Rusting away.We can all become "Hector The Collectors" But? ps there is another Hill St. in Victor Harbor its a one-way St next to Woolworths so

Oh Yeah forgot to add that the mob 0408824939 that was on the sign is also the same number advertized for Total Towing in the Yellow Pages so it must be him.That other next door chap said he sometimes turns up @ the site on weekends.

21 hours ago, hendrixhc said:

Just diff with calipers, possibly tailshaft for yoke and handbrake cable.

 

Hello Mr. hendrixhc,I found that White Ford Longreach Ute.Its in a Type of scrap cars and cranes & industrial & agriculture machinery type of cemetry.The wheels are still on it.There was a sign @ the end of the fence with 'total towing'  mob 0408824939 written on a piece of plywood with white finger paint mob number written  twice with total towing.The chap next door who runs Pt.Elliot Mechanical (aka the old Pt.Elliot Wreckers) said there's a Chap who comes in now and then and thinks he might have a car yard sales somewhere in Adelaide(the big smoke),He himself was showing interest in the cranes he's got there coz they still work.He said he thinks the Longreach was the owners personal @ one time.I looked up Total Towing Adelaide and found it in the Yellow pages @ 11 York St.Wingfield.So anyway I have'nt Phoned him and thats all I could find out.Hope this Helps.If you need a hand with getting stuff off I would help out.I have tools and a gas propane hose and torch for heat and jack stands. My trolley jacks are only smaller car types not big truck types.I would'nt mind a Squiz @ it either.Maybe its got a Nice dash mat or a better bench seat than mine,I could use some decent headlights etc. Its been there for  least 10 years maybe 15.Ok my  mob is 0487831133 but not after 4:00 pm  Thanks Searley

Ok I'll Go "Seek and You Will Find"!