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X-F250

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Posts posted by X-F250

  1. Posted

    Did you use the correct firing order roller windsors use the 13726548 order like a Cleveland not 15486372 like a pre 86 302 windsor
    Not quite the solution but you fellas were on the right track. I had another go at it this morning, pulled all the leads off and went to put them back on again just to be sure. That's when I noticed that the firing order stamped on the posts on the el cheapo Chinese dizzy cap was wrong, 5 and 3 were reversed. Swapped 'em over, cranked it and it fired right up!

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

    Outback Jack, Thom, deankxf and 1 other reacted to this

  2. Posted

    G'day Fellas,

    After cracking the shits and abandoning my NC after the coil died and then refused to start after it was replaced back in July of last year I finally got around to working on it again and discovered that my lack of spark was caused by one of the pins backing out of the coil plug. I fixed that and got it "running", but it's still not right.

     

    It runs on 4 cylinders (you can take the spark plugs off 1 and 2 and it keeps running) but only if you reverse the spark plug leads for 3 and 4. It's got a brand new dizzy, coil, TFI, etc. Any ideas?

     

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  3. Posted

    Replaced the dizzy with the one that was on my old motor, the one that came out looked pretty tidy from the outside (reco'd Bosch I'd say) but was pretty sad looking on the inside. Still won't fire but I'd say the coil is trash since it's got some pretty decent cracks in the body and the spare one it was running on yesterday is much the same.

    Failing that, the only other thing I can think of that's stopping it from starting is a dying ECU.

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  5. Posted

    Ugh, it's not as fixed as I though it was. Went for a 40km drive this morning perfectly fine. Pulled up at home, switched it off and went upstairs. Came back out at lunch time and it wouldn't start again. Same as before, cranks fine, Smartlock seems to be working fine, just no spark. Could it be the hall effect sensor in the dizzy?

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  8. Posted

    Afternoon guys,

     

    Last week I put about $20 worth of regular 91 in the Fairlane and noticed it was running a bit rough afterwards but thought nothing of it since my coil was on its way out. The coil finally died yesterday so replaced it this morning (along with the TFI module, dizzy cap & rotor, new plugs & leads, etc) and it fired right up and idled beautifully. Thinking it was fixed I went to go for a run around the block. I got up the hill and around the corner, then all of a sudden it stumbled and almost cut out. Now if you give it more than about 1/4 throttle it cuts out, but only when it's in gear. It'll idle and rev fine in park and neutral but as soon as you select a drive gear it starts to play up. I did idle down to the servo to put a bit of premium in and it's slightly better, but still not really drivable. I did notice that it blows a bit of white smoke under acceleration as well.

    Any ideas?

     

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  11. Posted

    Something to keep in mind: If the ute has a bench seat you'd likely have to put a set of buckets in to make it useable. Depending on which state you're in the swap requires a mod plate (because you're changing seating capacity), and in some of those states P-platers can't drive a mod-plated car, even for something as minor as a seat swap.

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    gromet88 and deankxf reacted to this

  12. Posted

    Hey guys,

    Went to run down to the shops this arvo and noticed a lovely trail of trans fluid all the way down to the servo from when I went out this morning. Turns out the rubber gasket I put on the box when I swapped the motor a few months ago has split horizontally in the front left hand corner. I've used the Trangold kits several times and this is the first time something like this has happened. Anyone else ever had issues?

     

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

     

     

  13. Posted

    Hey guys,

    Got some updates on the old NC on the way, but at the moment it's immobile thanks to a dead fuel pump. I've got all the connectors and fuel lines unhooked, what's holding me up is the locking ring. I've tried belting it with a screwdriver and hammer, I've tried to use the old 2 screwdrivers and a prybar as a lever trick. Hasn't moved a mm. A lot of the little tabs are bent or damaged (looks like someone has tried to use a pair of pliers or something to try to undo it previously). 

    Do you guys have any tips? I'm at my wits end with it and I'm tired of driving my broter's EA.

  14. Posted

    Sometimes the body control module let's go, if you hit the dash just above the handbrake handle you can sometime shock them into working, if that works I suggest you start hunting for a new one
    Gave the dash a solid belting, still no luck. I'll have a talk with the old man about borrowing some bits off my brother's wrecked EB wags, getting tired of slumming it in his EA GL.

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  15. Posted

    Might just be battery, once smartlick goes under a certain voltage it wont unlock like most immobilizers.
    Think its about 7V.
    Cheap easy fix first?

    Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk


    Thanks Jack, but it's definitely not the battery. I swapped the new battery out of my Brother's EA, NC still wouldn't start but the EA started fine with the battery out of the Fairlane.

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  16. Posted

    could be ign switch even. try it a heap of times, if it comes good, its likely the switch.
     
    Cheers, Dean. No luck with it coming good but I swapped the ignition relay out for one I know works and it didn't help so it looks like I'll be looking at a new ignition switch.

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  17. Posted

    Hey fellas

     

    I've had a problem with my NC. Been driving fine since I got it, although the dash lights flicker a little sometimes (probaby due for a new alternator). Last night, I parked in the driveway and locked up the car. When I went to leave for work this afternoon the car simply wouldn't start. Figuring the battery had run low I swapped it out for my spare, but there was no difference. Right now, the only things that seem to work are the interior lights, boot release and the smartlock light on the dash. When I turn the key over there's no dash lights, power windows, etc. Checked the engine earth and it seems fine.

     

    Thanks in advance,

    John

     

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  18. Posted

    Aaaand It's started back up again. I've been driving the old man's ute since our roady bloke has been on holidays. Went to get the 'lane ready for inspection and ran a bit of Seafoam through it just to be safe. Let it run for a while and it started to get shuddery. Fuel pump was also whining a bit, so I figured it might be the pump on it's way out. Swapped it for a spare I had, and as I was doing it the fuel that came out of the line was a really dark brown, almost like Vegemite. It had a quarter of a tank when I bought it and I've only 5L of fuel in since then. It sat in the previous owners garage for almost a year before that. Any chance it's just some pretty crappy old fuel making it run badly?

     

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  19. Posted

    Once again, you blokes have saved the day. Bumped the timing up a little bit and now the hesitation is barely there and it doesn't bog down under load. It still drops off for a moment if you very lightly touch the pedal, but I think that might be the injectors.

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  21. Posted

    Mine did that ,,

    blocked muffler 

    sounded like a cyclone out the tail pipe ,,

    " when it did start and idle "

     

    Exhaust noise on mine sounds normal, although on start up I sometimes have to give it a few revs to get it to idle. I'll check the injectors, they seem to be the likely culprit.

     

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  22. Posted

    Fuel filter was done when the last service was done at the start of last year, but the old bloke parked it immediately after it was done. The service log recommends cleaning the injectors but I don't think it was ever done.

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  23. Posted

    Hey fellas,
    I'm having an issue with the Fairlane. It seems to be idling rough, a bit low and if you rev it lightly or try to hold it at about 1000rpm the engine stumbles and nearly cuts out. I tried cleaning out the throttle body, doesn't seem to have done very much.
     
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  25. Posted

    Hey fellas, took the ute for a long run today. All was good until I was 3/4 of the way home and the car was running really hot. Got under the bonnet and saw the damage, one of the heater hoses had burst at the fitting on the motor. Fair enough, luckily I had a spare hose so I chucked it in, filled the ute back up with coolant and waited 'til it cooled back down. When I went to take off again there was some super loud popping (almost like backfiring) and I had stuff all power. There wasn't any obvious sign that the dizzy was wet but that's the only thing I can think of. It's sounds almost like my FC Holden when I buggered up the plug leads.

     

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